So our 1995 850 GLT simply wouldn't start last week. No warning, no lights, nothing. One day it started, the next it didn't. The engine would crank and start to catch, but it wouldn't ever start. It had gas, and the battery was strong. I did lots of searching and reading on this board looking for a solution.

On Saturday, I replaced the plugs. They were badly in need of replacement, so I thought I had figured it out. After I finished, it still wouldn't start.

I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes, and BINGO - it started right up. It runs great now, much better than before.

Problem solved!

 

I guess the ECU just needed to be reset. Very odd either way but glad you have her up and running again.

 

I may have spoken too soon. It still runs fine, but just threw a CEL.

 

I just read the code. It is 1-5-4, which I believe is "Leak in EGR system (leakage or excessive flow)".

Could this be a gas cap issue like you see in many other vehicles?

 

I reset the CEL, filled it with a fresh tank of gas, and made sure the cap is on really tight. We'll see how it does.

 

1-5-4 (EGR System Leakage)
1) Symptom of EGR system leakage is rough idle. Code will set
when engine temperature is 150 degrees F (65 C) or less, and temperature
sensor detects an increasing temperature. If ECU detects that
temperature of EGR temperature sensor varies by more than a preset
limit before temperature has reached 150 degrees F (65 C), ECU will interpret
condition as an EGR flow and will initiate a code. Some faults that
can produce this code include:
* Leaking EGR valve.
* Signal to EGR controller faulty.
* EGR controller defective.
* Poor ground.
* Engine thermostat defective.
2) Start engine and listen to idle. If idle is okay, go to
step 4) and check engine temperature. If idle is not okay, disconnect
EGR controller connector. If idle is still rough, go to next step and
check EGR controller. If idle is now okay, check Green/Brown wire
between ignition ECU terminal for a short to ground.
3) To check EGR controller, run engine at idle. Carefully
disconnect Yellow hose from EGR controller. If idle is now okay,
repeat test using new EGR controller. If idle is still rough, turn
ignition off. Carefully disconnect Yellow hose from EGR valve. Check
hose for blockage or leaks. If Yellow hose is okay, repeat test using
new EGR valve. If hose is blocked or leaking, replace hose. In both
cases, clear codes.
4) Check engine temperature gauge with engine running. If
gauge pointer does not rise to normal and top radiator hose is hot, go
to next step. If gauge shows normal operating temperature and top
radiator hose is hot, go to step 6). If gauge pointer rises slowly and
top radiator hose is not at normal operating temperature, retest
system using new thermostat. Clear codes.
5) Turn ignition off. Disconnect Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor
connector. Connect an ohmmeter between MAF sensor connector terminal
No. 2 and ground. See Fig. 5. If ohmmeter indicates about zero ohms,
go to next step. If ohmmeter does not indicate about zero ohms,
disconnect electrical connector located under intake manifold, on
engine block. Clean and reconnect connector. Clear codes.
6) Code may be set by contact resistance at EGR and engine
temperature sensor connector. Clean and protect EGR and engine
temperature sensor connectors from oxidation, dirt, etc. Clear codes.

 

Wonderful information... thanks for that. Any chance you can point me to the images/figures mentioned in your post?

 

you will need a copy of VADIS to get those, unless someone has access to it and can post for u.

 

So far, so good after the reset. The car operates properly. The engine runs smoothly, and no new CEL. The operating temperature is in the normal range. I drove it around for about 30 minutes last night to confirm this. I'll keep monitoring it, and I appreciate the feedback I have gotten so far.