Im looking at buying a non-running 850 r turbo wagon for 800$ in good shape. is this a good deal or not? what should i look for?

Thanks

 

Uhhh, what's wrong with it? I mean, any R for 800 dollars is a good deal. It might need a ton of work and unless you can do it yourself could get pretty pricey. More details if you can.

 

i think the turbo is bad or just needs a rebuild (do they make kits for them?), owner said it was engine, but they are not mechincally inclined i can do 90% of the work myself also i will want to pull more than the 3psi in the end as well. can you use the N/A motors out of the glts? or are there forged interals on the turbo motors?

 

It is easy to source used turbos fairly cheap. You can rebuild your own turbo but you would have to get it balanced. NA motors will work if you want to drill your own holes into it for turbo oil cooler lines and only produced about 5 PSI max. If it's the motor, either do a swap or rebuild it, get it honed and cleaned, new rings and bearing (see Bobec's "engine rebuild progress" thread). Rs make more than 3 PSI, if it is running properly Rs should be making about 10-12 PSI. If it's only the motor and turbo, 800 bucks is an awesome deal.

 

Well good to know i will have more details when i get the car this weekend

 

Sounds good. And don't forget to put up some PICTURES!!

 

will do, car is black but for some odd reason has glt wheels. but is a r badged wagon. also how easy/hard is it to intercool these?

 

They're already intercooled.

 

Then do it. If that car where closer I'd all over it!! ( depending on the body and interior)To me 90% means everything but the "20+ %" machine shop work.


"can you use the N/A motors out of the glts? or are there forged interals on the turbo motors?" Why would you want to??? just rebuild it right and you will be amazed(no expert on the turbo part though...ask Gilber33). Take it from me!!! if you put 3 to 4K into that car and the body and interior are decent you'll feel like you're driving a new car. I know because I do.

It really amazes me driving my 150 mile a day commute with a car that is 14 yrs old and when I stomp on her she gets up and goes. all of the Kia's and Hundia's and toyota's just don't have it. They look so worn out.

 

IIRC the internals on the HPT motors vs the LPT/NA motors are different. I think they have different coatings on the valves and a couple other things.

 

Be cautious, sounds like a fantastic deal. Even if the Turbo is bad the car will run but just not have power. It should idle nice and drive. If it doesnt then you may not be looking at a turbo problem. Just be careful, you could have some internal damage such as a warped head/blown head gasket, burnt valve or piston. Ask some direct questions, check the oil condition, etc. My first thought when I read the wheels were gone is that this person already knows the car is toast and was beginning to part it out. I bought an T-5R that was also missing the wheels. The owner had begun parting the car when I bought it.

 

The NA motors have different cams, different valves and (most importantly) different pistons. This is the important part- the NA motors are 10:1 compression, the low pressure turbos are 9:1 compression, and the high pressure turbos (the R is an HPT) are 8.5:1 compression. They also have thicker cylinder walls than the LPT and NA engines (hence the 2.3L displacement instead of 2.4L) Turbocharged engines need reduced compression to compensate for the extra pressure, otherwise, they will "ping," or preignite, even with premium fuel, and this can result in severe engine damage.

 

Well i got a better look a it today however its only a 850 Turbo, not an R but is it still worth the 800$? oil looks good, coolant looked ok, so head gasket is probably ok am going to find out more saturday

 

It depends what your doing with the car, the only difference between an R and an 850 Turbo is the trim (bumper/interior) and an ECU. If your going to mod it, then the 850 R is on the exact same playing field as an 850 Turbo. If this is going to stay stock, the R will be a little bit quicker (only about 2 PSI quicker), and a slightly nicer interior.

 

well i plan to mod it a little, i have my race car, this i just want to be my SPORTwagon lol with a lil more power than average. i like the interiors of the glts and turbos so this one is just fine. i just wanted to be sure that it is worth the 800$ plus the time and parts to fix it.

 

All things I didn't know. Thanks, Carrots!

- Goat

 

So looked at it today and it turns over but wont start start, oil and antifreeze are ok what could it be? timing, crank position sensor?. i saw a brief note about smoke out exhaust and an oil leak, these are non interference motors right?

 

These are interference engines.

Your going to need to start from the basics. Fuel, Spark, Compression.

 

[quote=91shelby;197015]Im looking at buying a non-running 850 r turbo wagon for 800$ in good shape. is this a good deal or not? what should i look for?

Look for oil leaks at the bottom of the engine. Look for excessive smoke in exhaust. Run a compression check on each of the cylinders by borrowing a compression gauge at your local auto parts store. Compression is checked by taking off the black top Volvo cover on the engine / disconnect the ignition lead from the coil /removing each spark plug in turn and cranking the engine while second person holds compression gauge in empty spark plug port looking to see PSI range from about 135 to 150 PSI in each cylinder. Get service repair records form owner. Timing belt should be replaced at 70,000 mile intervals so do the math on that. Suspension is also usually in need of replacement at 140,000 ie shocks, tie rods, sway bars etc. Hope this helps.

 

what is the best way to determine whether the crankshaft position sensor is causing the engine not to start?