I am in the market for a car since I have been driving my pickup at about 12.5 mpg a day for 50 miles a day and often more on weekends, and I have a new job where I don't need a pickup for work

One of the options I am looking at is I have my old 96 Volvo 850 GLT, which, since I already own it might be a better option than trying to find a 'new' car (well, used car, I can't afford a new new car)

The Volvo currently runs and drives and its windows and AC and sunroof and such work, and all four tires are in serviceable shape, so, these are all positive things

However, I know that it is time that the Volvo had its timing belt done and probably needs new spark plugs and probably many other things I am not even aware of it needs. It also has in the past had issues with keeping its battery charged, and has had its front control arms replaced once, AC fixed twice, radiator fixed twice, power steering fixed once, sunroof fixed once, front bumper reattached (I think, or maybe its not reattached and is just tied on) and assorted other issues since my dad bought it (with the assistance of chemo and painkillers) in 05 from a smooth talking used car salesman for well over KBB with no records and a dead odometer to replace my old 87 BMW that got killed by Hurricane Rita

So, I wonder if you have any insights whether or not this car is likely to be worth trying to work with and get fixed up so that it may once more soldier on, or if I am better off looking for something else. I am leaning toward trying to get it back in service, but, that may just be because its the devil I know and I have fond memories and thoughts that it is the car my late father picked out and bought for me spending more money than planned because It's a Really Good Safe Car, it's a Volvo! With Leather Seats and a Sunroof!

 

These 850's are great cars that can go forever as long as a) you keep them up or b) you pay to have them kept up. If you can turn a wrench keep it. There are a lot of resources here and other places to lead you step by step through repairs/maintenance.

The battery deal might be as simple as the glove box light staying on. Check it with a cell phone or just pull the bulb.

 

They're very easy to work on. I would certainly say that driving it to save gas can only save you money. If you want to fix it yourself, it'll be very economical to keep it beyond the point of timing belt replacement. If you pay somebody to fix it, then it's hard to say if it's cheaper than a newer japanese car. that could go either way.

 

Just a note, a tranny can go in any car which will make owning it costly.

 

Ugh, I know about transmissions, they are evil things . . . I have had to have a transmission replaced in a 87 BMW 325 and a 94 E350 box truck, both horribly painful experiences

Is the transmission experience of particular risk for a 96 Volvo 850 automatic?

 

Nope, as solid as the motor, as long as they are serviced.

 

I have found a mechanic willing to do the timing belt, so I am getting ready to take it in for that. I am reading all the threads on timing belt kits and such and trying to figure exactly what to order

The AC has gone out, the person at Autozone looked at it and said the AC clutch was supposed to spin, and the lack of spinning was a sign of problems

Going to be trying to install a new brake light bulb and license plate light bulb myself so it can try to pass inspection

 

What state are you in?

For the A/C clutch, I am assuming that when they say 'Supposed to spin' that they mean when you turn on the A/C the compressor is supposed to spin. Thats a yes. The way the compressor works is by magnetism. Its a weak attraction but strong when enabled. What happens on these clutches is the rubber stoppers that the clutch rest against when not engaged keep the clutch a specific distance from the pulley. As time goes by those rubber stoppers squish so the distance between the clutch and the pulley gets larger. This is extremely common for these cars. A lot of people think they need to recharge their system when in reality the clutch is just not engaging. It will appear to engage but when it gets hot the magnetic attraction is less than when cold and the clutch will let go.
To fix this you just need to get the clutch closer to the pulley by slipping spacers in behind the rubber stoppers so the clutch gets pushed closer. Its a 10 minute job and you'll have A/C again.
Some people have used bread clips I used E-Clips.

 

I'm in Texas, Deep East Texas area

 

I hear the stars at night are big and bright there.

 

 

Maybe the system is simply low on freon and won't engage the compressor's clutch because it senses low pressure.

 

For the AC you just need to have a hose with a gauge to check it to see if low system pressure is the problem.

 

Well, the Volvo is now back moving

Has had

Timing belt, serpentine belt, and neutral safety switch replaced for 1070 by the only mechanic I found willing to touch the car (which required a journey of about 150 miles, the guy is actually a Jaguar mechanic by preference, but has sufficient attitude to work on anything)

AC was fixed (at least so far) by putting a can of freon in it. I am awestruck. Never before in 24 years of dealing with cars have I seen this work, its NEVER 'just needs a can of freon'.

Rear bumper has been bolted back into place and the trailer hitch properly secured, bumper was hanging off due to improper trailer hitch mounting

Put a can of seafoam in the oil and then changed the oil (used high mileage Pennzoil conventional)

Gave car a bath and am using Mr Clean Magic Erasers to slowly try to erase the accumulated grime, adhesive and other discolorations that the car wash couldn't get

I've had the car over 9 years, so is good to see it slowly make progress toward being in fighting trim and to be driving it again, its almost a member of the family really!

My mother thinks I should name it Pandora

Still a bunch of things to work on

Tires - I need to get these checked, it probably needs new ones, I can't remember when it last got new ones
Mileage - I would really like to know how many miles it has, I don't know if its possible
Odometer and Cruise control - These would be nice
Gear shift - is it supposed to be stuck in park until you push the button on the base of the gear shift?
Check engine lights - Need to get these settled

While I am busy dreaming would love some day in the future to work on some other non mechanical stuff, like getting a nice steering wheel cover, replacing the cup holder thing lid (all nasty, worn, cracked), getting dents and dings removed, new shiny emblems, and maybe some pinstriping and a spoiler (maybe? Do pinstripes and spoilers go well with such a car?)

I remember 9 years ago when my dad got this car I had some thoughts of 'its a generic white family sedan!' but now, you know, this car is pretty cool. And it might be a white family sedan, but, the Volvo 850 is definitely NOT generic and is easy to pick out of a crowded parking lot

 

Like all recent cars, the shifter is stuck in park until you step on the brake. If that is not unlocking on its own, at least make sure the brake lights are working. Those shifters can get gummed up a bit. It might just need some lubrication, but if it doesn't unlock on it's own, it's not the sort of thing I would spend money on.

 

Not sure where you're located. Would be nice if you added a location to your profile so it pops up in your posts.

If you're in the US since it's a '96 you can go to autozone, oreilly ... and they will check your codes for free. You have an OBDII connector on the console right near the shifter.

 

have a true story about bad cars and trannys... Years ago my mom had a new 83 Buick that went through 2 major transmission rebuilds in 4 years, so she asked for a recommendation on a safe, reliable car - which turned out to be a new 88 Volvo 240 DL. She never had an issue with that car so we bought a 95 850T Wagon, which my daughter still drives. My mom traded in the 240 for a 2000 S40, which my son now drives. To think it all started due to a GM transmission quality issue...

 

My Volvo has elected not to start. I have vigorously rowed the gear shift, used a wire brush to scrub battery terminals and connectors, taken battery to Autozone for testing and charge, and attempted jumping with two different pickups

So it has been towed off to visit the mechanic

 

Did you check for spark and fuel before you sent it to the mechanic ??

 

No, no idea how to do that

Mechanic said a new battery was needed and it jumped right nicely for them, but that battery wouldn't hold a charge

So alright, we put a new battery in (and price was quite reasonable, so why not). Starts right up

I pay, drive my truck back to my house, and get a friend to give me a ride to come pick it up again

It won't start, no starting

So mechanic has the key again and we will see what happens