Hello,
New to the forums. I have a 1997 Volvo 850 GLT (2.4 light pressure turbo) that I'm looking to upgrade over the summer. I am looking for some help as to what I can do motor wise. My basic plan is IPD intake kit, IPD RIP kit, OBX turbo back exhaust, and an ARD Stage one tune. My first question is if a turbo R exhaust manifold will bolt up to my car and fit the same. I found a couple for cheap and heard they flow a lot better. Thanks.

 

Answer: Yes, the manifold will work for all except models with an EGR.

 

Will there be a noticeable gain?

 

gain from what? the manifold or all the ideas you are considering? My view is that the intake kit is a waste of money, the reverse intercool piping is best when you are at higher boosts but has some value in lowering charge temperature and is not going to add HP except on the hottest days so again keep your money, the ECU tune is where you get your value. As to the exhaust and manifold question, the limiting factor is the turbo itself. LPTs use a smaller turbo to allow for faster spooling at low RPMs but don't have the pumping capacity at the higher RPMs. The cat back part of the exhaust is more about tone than HP, a bigger downpipe (turbo to cat) helps flow out of the turbo but again its value goes up with bigger turbos and more agressive tunes so I'd question the value add. What may make more sense is to consider swapping in a bigger turbo (ie swapping a 16T for the LPT's 13G) then the R manifold would make sense as would a 3" downpipe. If you go that far, then you'd want bigger injectors (ie greens?). My guess with all that you'd be in the 300-350 HP range - about the max before you'd need to build the engine.

 

Great info! I am still kicking a few things around, as this will all be in a pretty tight budget (3500-4000) that's including chassis mods. As for gains I was referring to the R manifold, as I'm sure the others will help. Would you recomend an K&N drop in over the IPD CAI? Also is the OEM ECU tuneable? If so I might consider a Dyno tune over a generic tune. Before any real mods tho, I need to get the car to stage zero. Anyone mind making me a quick list as I can't recall all of it. Also I need to fix a major problem, as the car doesn't always go into boost. On an code scan, the waste gate solenoid code was thrown up, as well as a few ignition things (new platinum iridium plugs, Bosch wires, OEM rotor). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, N

 

the volvo factory air box is actually quite good and I never noticed any improvement going from paper filters to KN. If you want research tuning options, check out the ARD web site. They offer a range of tunes based on what goodies you have in your blue print. ARD also offers some add ons to help manage the boost. The R manifold may offer say 5-10 HP and responsiveness but is it worth the effort? My 2 cents is to first pick your desired result - max HP? blend of driveability with a reasonable bump in HP etc? Say you set a goal of 300 HP... You can probably get there with 1) a 16T turbo 2) an ARD ECU tune 3) 3" downpipe 4) an ARD adjustible waste gate and bigger injectors. For the ignition, you may want to go back to copper core - most of the platinum/iridium stuff is to make the plugs last longer, not fire better. For better spark, check out IPD's MSD Ignition coil. Cap, wires, rotor, coolant drain/fill (distilled water flush), thermostat, coolant reservoir cap should also be on your stage 0 list.

 

Awesome thanks! The exhaust I have in mind is a three inch so we're good there. I like the turbo upgrade idea, and with the manifold only 129$ I'd say it's worth it. Especially if it's a direct bolt on install. Is there a bid benefit with the MSD upgrade? Also with the coolant flush is there a performance coolant you'd recomend as this will be a higher horsepower setup.

 

$4500 and you can have my car which has every single thing you can do to these cars without spending the $14k I did.

 

My budget involves the whole car not just motor mods, and I have the factory 4 speed auto so I can't go too crazy hp wise.

 

I'm also looking for some better seats as the OEM blustering is terrible. Will T5R seats fit? Also I'll be ordering the 16T turbo in two weeks, as well as some wheels and tires.

 

Hello again,
Sorry for the inactivity as I have been at school and unable to do much to the car. Let me restate my goal. What's the best motor I can have for 1500$. I'll use my other money in suspension, wheels, tires, and interior/exterior.

 

For $1500 starting with the LPT, I'd upgrade the turbo and get an ECU tune, larger injectors, a boost control valve and perhaps a larger down pipe (optional). the rest of the engine budget would go into cleaning up hoses, PCV (make sure ports are clean and again new hoses) and upgraded mounts. Check out the ardideas.com web site for some good ideas but this would put you in the 300 HP range. For the suspension, start with IPD HD sway bars& end links, then 17 inch wheels (anything taller is wasted IMHO as the suspension geometry will limit the advantage), new shocks (ie Bilstein HDs) lowering spings (optional - suggest progressive rates), upgrade front brakes to the larger rotors (via new caliper carriers). Interior - you can find replacement seat leathers but after that I'd consider upgrading radio head unit/amp and speakers. Interesting choice there is whether to go double DIN and get a head unit with a graphical display or go single DIN and use the free space for gauges. You may also want to look into swapping out the steering wheel for one from a C70 (personally I like the original on my 850).

 

The plan was to throw a T16 in, with a three inch down pipe, and an ARD stage two tune. Now for the injectors and BCV, where can I get them? I'm also going to do some basic stage zero stuff like PCV etc. I also may do the ARD pulley upgrade, and a few other things if I can budget them. For suspension Koni SRT struts with Vogtland springs, with IPD sway bars down the line. For wheels I'm going to do 17x7 with 235/40 R17. Interior wise I may go bucket seats as the OEM seats have terrible bolstering, and then maybe a quick detach wheel.

 

$4500 and you can have mine which has everything your talking about and more. Everything and more. How quickly you will surpass that price without blinking. Except the detach wheel because I have an R steering wheel. Seats are R skinned with Bolstering added. Suspension is all Koni and IPD sways. Had a 16t, got rid of it, went 18T then 19T now 20G. Rock solid engine with about 9k on it. 17" rims with 225/40s on it spaced. Custom tuned by the Moped man. Its a green bullet.

I'm not trying to pressure you, just messing with you but will be selling my car in the near future.

 

It's not that I don't want to pour money into my car, it's simply that I don't have enough to do everything. That's why I made this thread to ask what's cheap and simple and works.

 

Im going to order the ARD TCV soon, as that should fix my boosting problem, as well as provide some benefits in throttle response and decreased lag. This just replaces the OEM Boost Control Solenoid correct? This is what has been giving my car issues with inconsistent boost and delayed boost, or atleast I think. Plus when I'm doing this I can replace any damaged vacuum lines necessary.

 

Why dont you get a boost gauge first so you know whats going on. Second, replace the vaccum lines. Then go from there. I do not think the TCV will net you anything.

 

Can you reccomend me a decent gauge? I also have replaced one vacuum line but it still isn't fixed. OBD scan says it's a boost control solenoid valve, so I'll have to do some more checking. Also many people has said that it has netted them some gains on the bottom end or atleast restored that bottom end punch.

 

Has anyone tried the ARD pulley? I have heard good and bad. Is the vibrations really noticeable? Caused any of you any issues?

 

you can buy one for $4500, already installed. just PM Boxpin to see if he'll sell you the rest of his car with the pulley :-)