850 Ball Joint Replacement
#1
850 Ball Joint Replacement
Dear All,
Hi, I'm writing from Chicago.
I have a question in regard to my:
1994 850 Turbo T5 Sedan Automatic Xmission, 143,000 miles
I've been trying to replace the ball joint (one each axle, only for lower control arm). The passenger side joint came off easily, but the driver side shank is stubborn. Ball joint separator fork did no good, large prybar didn't do much, ball joint separator rented from local Autozone didn't fit. Hitting the control arm with plastic hammer seems the only way (worked on the passenger side unit) but the shank drops only about 1/8 inch or so and then it stays there. I am afraid of hitting the control arm harder, as it's aluminum and an abusive blow might deform it. Access is very limited. The only way I can think of to remove this unit is to remove the axle nut (non-reusable), separate the cv-joint spindle so that I can get access to the top of the ball joint shank and hit it with a punch & hammer. Hynes Manual (or Chilton) proved no good, I wonder if they actually got their hands dirty and did the work. They often say something like, "...remove this bolt & nut, then remove the unit". Well, it ain't that easy. They too often omit "how to" portion, the critical part we mostly need.
If you have some ideas, I really appreciate your expertise.
Sincerely,
JPN
PS: Mr. Tech,
Thank you for your advice a while ago. I was able to remove that stubborn ball joint clamp bolt. It was indeed rusted between the bolt and the clamping part. It was a mess, though. I heated it with portable torch, taking care not to heat the cv-joint boot (used folded aluminum foil between the ball joint & the cv-joint). I then took chisels and kept belting the head of the bolt, as well as trying to wedge the chisel between the bolt flange and the clamp. For new installation, I put anti-seize compound on the shank of the bolt.
Hi, I'm writing from Chicago.
I have a question in regard to my:
1994 850 Turbo T5 Sedan Automatic Xmission, 143,000 miles
I've been trying to replace the ball joint (one each axle, only for lower control arm). The passenger side joint came off easily, but the driver side shank is stubborn. Ball joint separator fork did no good, large prybar didn't do much, ball joint separator rented from local Autozone didn't fit. Hitting the control arm with plastic hammer seems the only way (worked on the passenger side unit) but the shank drops only about 1/8 inch or so and then it stays there. I am afraid of hitting the control arm harder, as it's aluminum and an abusive blow might deform it. Access is very limited. The only way I can think of to remove this unit is to remove the axle nut (non-reusable), separate the cv-joint spindle so that I can get access to the top of the ball joint shank and hit it with a punch & hammer. Hynes Manual (or Chilton) proved no good, I wonder if they actually got their hands dirty and did the work. They often say something like, "...remove this bolt & nut, then remove the unit". Well, it ain't that easy. They too often omit "how to" portion, the critical part we mostly need.
If you have some ideas, I really appreciate your expertise.
Sincerely,
JPN
PS: Mr. Tech,
Thank you for your advice a while ago. I was able to remove that stubborn ball joint clamp bolt. It was indeed rusted between the bolt and the clamping part. It was a mess, though. I heated it with portable torch, taking care not to heat the cv-joint boot (used folded aluminum foil between the ball joint & the cv-joint). I then took chisels and kept belting the head of the bolt, as well as trying to wedge the chisel between the bolt flange and the clamp. For new installation, I put anti-seize compound on the shank of the bolt.
#2
#3
RE: 850 Ball Joint Replacement
Hello Mr. Tech,
Thank you once again for your expertise and taking time to reply.
I was able to replace the ball joint at last. It was really stubborn, but I got it out with chisel & hammer. I aimed at the root of the ball joint and kept hitting until it dislodged. Putting in the new ball joint was another challenge, though not too bad. The ball joint shank had to be at the right angle in order to nest in the clamp.
The axle nut is of stake type (earlier 36 mm nut), and Haynes says it has to be replaced every time it's disturbed. It is, however, the staked portion (flange) that is non-reusable and the nut itself does look reusable with thread lock chemical.
Only 3 more tasks to go with this car (brake hose + fluid replacement, oil cooler drain + O-ring replacement and moon roof repair).
Thank you again for your help.
Sincerely,
JPN
Thank you once again for your expertise and taking time to reply.
I was able to replace the ball joint at last. It was really stubborn, but I got it out with chisel & hammer. I aimed at the root of the ball joint and kept hitting until it dislodged. Putting in the new ball joint was another challenge, though not too bad. The ball joint shank had to be at the right angle in order to nest in the clamp.
The axle nut is of stake type (earlier 36 mm nut), and Haynes says it has to be replaced every time it's disturbed. It is, however, the staked portion (flange) that is non-reusable and the nut itself does look reusable with thread lock chemical.
Only 3 more tasks to go with this car (brake hose + fluid replacement, oil cooler drain + O-ring replacement and moon roof repair).
Thank you again for your help.
Sincerely,
JPN
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