I ried posting about a no start 850glt na earlier to no avail......later testing has provided additional clues.....the fuel rail visual test for pressure produced a dribble and nothing like a over 40 pounds pressure would cause...i disconnected the air intake hose at the filter box and sprayed in a starter spray for 2 seconds...returned to loosened hose to it's proper position and attempted to start. the car immediately fired off and ran for about a minute...a little rouigh but at times smoothed out and seemed to run at idle naturally smooth...upon giving it some throttle, it would not speed up rpms and eventurally stalled. obviously this no start is due to fuel...when i turn the key i do hear a fait sound from the trunk area for about 5 seconds and then it stops...i assume this is the pump running to build pressure and then quits when i don't turn over the motor....beyond the pump itself, what else could be influencing the no pressure? where is the filter for this? suggestions?

 

Filter is in front of the tank on the passenger side. Can you smell fuel around the regulator? Can u check the pressure after it has primed? Did you replace the whole fuel pump assembly or just the pump?

 

i did not replace anything so far....i cannot smell any fuel..............i'm told it's either the fuel pump, the regulator or filter clogged or fuel relay......not sure where the regulator is located physically........or the relay for that matter....i just want to make sure there is not something else "telling" the pump not to run, because of a malfuntion in that part?? it actually ran for about a minute and half after i sprayed the starter fluid into the intake hose off the air filter housing.

 

regulator is under the fuel rail towards the timing belt, relay is under the fuse box you have to take the 4 torx screws out of the fuse box and pull the cover. The car was most likely only running on the starter fluid thats it

 

It's been raining pretty hard here in north east floriday since i began this trouble shooting and since the car has been parked at the end of my drive, i am doing this work outside in the elements so i am doing a probabilities type of trouble shoot....going for the most logicial until proven other wise. So, with that said. tell me where my logic is failed in this deducation: upon turning the key, and not hitting the starter, i can hear the fuel pump running for about 5 seconds and then shutting off....that says to me it is getting the signal to run as normal....does that negate the possibility of the relay being bad? I have not checked the fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail but will do that today. left in this senerio is the fuel filter. it has not been changed and i agree it probably won't hurt to do that....but, my experiences over 67 years of life that if a fuel filter is clogged to the point of preventing combustion, even then, it will allow some fuel to pass overnight. prior to spraying the starter fluid intake, i was cranking the engine over and over and got no hint of start. it all began orginnally just like i turned the switch off and fuel was shut off....i did remove the fuse panel cover and see a number of relays....have to figure out how to remove the fuel relay...and actually find out which of those exposed it is! size looks to be positioned on furtherest to right as i look from front of car.

 

It sounds to me like a relay problem but before you throw money around blindly, go through the checks as per Volvo FSM, Chapter F-Basic Testing, Pages 3-5. You need to look at Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 for the relay terminals. This is where most of the testing occurs (with a voltmeter).

 

i just removed the fuel pump relay and took cover apart and visually inspected it for any signs of discoloration or burning....the insides all over look like new...no discoloration at all.....no residue and like i said the pump was silent when the relay was out [naturally] and when i reinstalled the relay, the pump began to hum for the 5 seconds with key to on position. fuel rail check provides only a dribble out with nothing approaching a spray...certainly not a 40 plus pounds of pressure at rail test point. i think the relay is good.... i am having difficulty locating the fuel pressure relay...looking on cam belt end of engine and i find the 5 injectors in line and see two fuel lines...i assume the regulator is attched to the two fuel lines which are run over the top of engine on the cambelt side. there is a small round item close to the cambelt end but is undersilver undercover once the two screws and aluminum cover is removed. is this the fuel regulator?

 

You haven't said yet what year is your GLT. In my '95 FSM I do not see any "fuel pressure relay" in addition to the Fuel Pump Relay, which is Relay # 2 in the Relay box in the Engine Compartment. The mushroom looking thing with vacuum line and fuel lines - yes that is the fuel pressure regulator.

Just because you see no physical damage to the Fuel Pump relay it does not mean it is working properly. You need to go over the pages I referenced in my previous post in order to properly troubleshoot this.

 

with all this typing and relays banter, i called the fuel pressure regulator a fuel pressure relay....my mistake.......i guess i'm at a point where i have to dig out the meter and start testing items....i have not yet put eyes on the filter but there won't be a test for that anyway...since i am kind of stranded without this car right now, i was rying to find problem without having to hook up the meter. i did have a look at the top of the fuel pump under the cover plate..and read the details on removing it...looks pretty tight space to work in and not much room to move around. does that circular plastic piece around the top have to unscrew before pump removal?

 

Wagon or sedan? On my wagon, changing out the fuel pump was easier than an oil change. Literally. Just disconnect (push out and pull) the quick-release plastic connectors, electrical harness. IIRC, you can unscrew the "mason jar lid" either in place or out. I do remember though that you need to tighten it with the pump in place. A large jaw wrench would work.

 

You don't have to go around and probe things. All the probing is done at the relay terminals. You could try the to bypass the fuel filter (temporarily, for testing purposes). Run a rubber hose (with clamps of course) from one side of the filter to the other.

 

well, i owned and operated a quick oil change facility at the beach here for 12 years, so i could tell you about more than a few oil changes from hell! anyway, i have a sedan glt, 1996 model year....i think i am going to replace the fuel pump relay and eliminate that as a possible cause. I plan to get under the car next and do a visual on the filter and do a by pass on it and go after the regulator next. Is there a check for the regulator? i suppose my afforementioned fuel pump hum for 5 seconds or so, could be activating a fuel pump that is running but no pumping?? funny thing on this is my experience with electric fuel pumps is that most times,prior to going bad, there is some kind of squeeling or noise prior to it's life end and on this car, the pump has never made any noise and continues to sound normal at all times. i appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

 

You can run a search here for other ways of testing the Regulator. Here is Volvo's official version:

"Turn ignition on. Fuel pump should start. Fuel filler
cover can be removed to determine whether main pump is operating. Fuel
pressure should be about 43.5 psi (3.06 kg/cm  ). If pressure is too
low, pinch return hose by hand and check whether pressure rises. DO
NOT allow pressure to exceed 86 psi (6 kg/cm  ).
5) If pressure rises rapidly, pump and lines are okay.
Replace pressure regulator and recheck line pressure. If pressure
rises slowly, fuel filter, fuel pump strainer or fuel lines are
blocked. If pressure does not rise, fuel pump is probably faulty.
6) If pressure is too high, remove jumper wire between relay
or fuse terminals. Remove return hose from pressure regulator. Blow in
pipe. Remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator. Blow in pipe. If
both hoses are open, pressure regulator is defective. Replace
regulator and recheck pressure."

 

Whew...I have read this from the beginning, here goes... It sounds to me like you identified the thermostat housing instead of the pressure regulator which is UNDERNEATH the intake manifold between cylinders 2 & 3.

 

Oops, looks like I missed a page. Sorry for a post that might seem out of order.

 

Sorry again, I Totally screwed up. Disregard everything I said. You were correct in your I.D.of the regulator. I'll be more careful. Hope you get her going!

 

Finally, the weater has warmed up here in florida! It is warm enough to try and get this issue resolved.........i just climbed underneath the car and checked fuel coming out of engine side of filter.......with the engine side of line at fuel filter disconnected, i had a friend turn the key on......gas under some pretty good pressure started shooting out of the disconnected filter.......am i correct in assuming my fuel pump and filter are most likely working as required? am i also correct to assume that my fuel pressure relay is working as advertised? if, above are correct, then i assume the item causing my issue is the fuel pressure regulator?