850 keep turning off after new distributor cap.
I change the distributor cap on my 850 since the old one keep sending the engine at 2000 rpm then fluctuates upside down afterward. After connection the spark plug wires in the correct firing order, given when standing in front of the car, spark plug #1 is the first on the left side. Afterward, standing on the side the engine that gives you the circular view of all the holes on the cap, I plugged in the first wire from #2 spark plug at 8:00pm on the installed cap; going clockwise, I get 2-1-3-5-4. Where did I go wrong?
Actually, that's how I had it set up, clean850R. I decided to run it, despite the stalling, by keeping the rpm at 2 while I shifted into forward gear. Few minutes later, it stopped turning off but the stalling is still there. Tomorrow, I will change the rotor cap to see whether it makes a difference or not.
If you are using the Haynes manual it is dead wrong on the plug wire locations. I hate linking to other sites but this is correct and it is simple:
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_...parkplugs.html
Even the Volvo factory manual has the rotation backwards even though they have the number one wire location correct.
...Lee
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_...parkplugs.html
Even the Volvo factory manual has the rotation backwards even though they have the number one wire location correct.
...Lee
Yep, like everyone I have the correct setup for the wires. About knocking the vacuum line loose, can I check it or should I bring it to a mechanic? I am mechanically inclined, by the way. Instructions should suffice, on the account I get one.
I am having trouble understanding what you are saying here. Correct me if I am wrong but you replaced your distributor cap because your engine was doing something around 2000rpms? What????? fluctuates upside down??? Huh?? What are you trying to say?
Is this thread about the spark plug firing order? There is no fluctuation on these cars. The distributor is fixed, there is no timing so the firing order will not change. Follow what has been said for the firing order and if its wrong your car will not start and if it did it would be sputtering and jerking at idle.
Not to mention that it may backfire and blow your muffler apart.
Back to the vacuum, you can check it yourself. Just look around there. Remove the cover from the throttle and look real close at off of the vacuum lines that run under the idle control valve.
Back to the vacuum, you can check it yourself. Just look around there. Remove the cover from the throttle and look real close at off of the vacuum lines that run under the idle control valve.
OOh sorry about the word fluctuate. What I meant to say was Oscillate between 1 and 2 rpm without me touching the gas pedal. I have now changed the cap and rotor. Sadly, the problem is still there.
Tap lightly on the Idle valve if it's sticking it will cause the idle surge up and down! Or take it apart and clean it anyway! Stalling could be idle valve if it closes while your driving and doesn't open when you release the throttle!
The idle valve was alright from my inspection. But I did notice serious cracks on the air filter hose. When I cover the hole, the engine doesn't shake. I don't know whether it's the source to the stalling too, but I'm searching for a new one. Once I replace it, I will keep you updated.
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rspi
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