Hi, I'm a new member to this forum, I'm an active member on a couple other forums...I've been a volvo owner off & on all my life & I just recently purchased a real nice 95 850 GLT wagon for my son, it runs perfect...BUT... when you put it in reverse, it goes forward...any idea's on what's causing this? the shift up light is flashing & the service engine lite is flashing...is this just a sensor or do I need to take it to the tranny shop?....thanks for any help you can give me...Paul...865-684-6059

 

The shift up light flashing means something is wrong with the trans......it will have a code stored as to what is wrong. Do a search on how to pull the codes and check what code it is reporting for a start.

 

Wait for RSPI.. he had this same issue with his estate, I believe he fixed it somehow... but im not sure

 

Is it the check engine light?
Or you could do a little bit of work to help us help you. That isn't asking too much is it ??
The check engine light has codes that do the diagnosis so people don't have to guess. Use your under hood diagnostic port to pull the transmission and engine codes and look them up and post your results. Or you can take it to Oreilly or Autozone and use their reader to read them.

 

Hi, I'm RSpi, yes I did have the same exact problem with the tranny that was in the wagon that I now drive. It also slipped real bad in 1st and 2nd before I blew 1st out. After that I drove for about 2,500 miles before I had the tranny swapped with one from a Volvo salvage yard.

It's a long story that I did post here. Read these 2 threads:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ep-5157/page2/
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...her-day-54018/

From what I was told, the car only had the reverse problem until the owner before me let it sit for about 8 months. As stated, the car would actually back up for about 5 to 8 feet before the forward gear would kick in. When I shifted it to reverse and hit the gas right away, it would back up a little before the other gear out powered reverse.

Maybe if you service it, change the fluid, you might have a chance, if 1st and 2nd are not slipping. If they are good you may be able to drive the car for YEARS without worrying about it (it may never get worse).

Matt probably put 100,000 miles on his car with almost no reverse. I say do the fluid change and milk it. He may still be driving with that tranny.

If you'd like, I do have a transmission that should work in the car that I am willing to sell you for $100, you pay the shipping. I can meet you in Memphis with it for $25.
Volvo 850 Transmission - For 1994 & 1995 Turbo - AISIN Warner 50-42LE
You may be able to find one local for that amount.

Whenever your CEL flashes, it's letting you know that the car has dropped into the LIMP HOME MODE. That is the Volvo safety setting to let you know that you really need to fix something on the car. It's trying to protect itself.

Whenever your SHIFT arrow flashes, the car is letting you know that the transmission is NOT shifting correctly and the transmission needs to be checked and/or repaired. It usually causes the car to drop into the LIMP HOME MODE to protect the transmission.

Whenever your car is in the LIMP HOME MODE, it usually doesn't allow you to drive agressive. It's slow to respond to the throttle and may not go over 45 mph.

 

Thank you all for the info..will go to auto zone tomorrow & see what codes come up & let you know what they say...I'll keep you guys up to date on my issue

 

Opps. I thought you were in Nashville. Knoxville is a lot furter away than Nashville. I do go through Knoxville when I go to Charlotte about once per year. Not sure when that will be next.

 

anything new on this?

 

Not all Autozone or Oreilly stores carry the same scanner and I can't remember if the Autozone Actrons will do transmission. You might need to pull the codes from the flashing lights under the hood with the diagnostic port.

In case you haven't seen it, it's right next to the washer fluid fill tube under those two black covers.

 

That's where I read my tranny codes a few times. I don't think I posted or kept them though.

 

ok...run the codes on the car...showing a PO705 Trans Range Sensor
& PO 730....Does anybody know where these sensors are located at & if i would be easy to do or would it be easier to just replace the tranny?
thanks!!! Paul

 

Those are the codes I had. I don't think the codes mean the sensors are bad, it tells you what the sensors are reading/reporting.

 

Ok...I got the codes... PO 705 & PO 730
and PNP switch?

I've been trying to figure these out...I figure it's probably some sensors or something, but not real sure...I don't knnow what the codes mean, or if it's seneors, where they're located...Thanks in advance for any help you can give me...Paul

 

Ok...I've flushed the tranny, changed the PNP switch and it isn't any better...got any Idea's?...or would it be a whole lot less stressful to just change the tranny?...I think I got the PNP adjusted right...not 100% sure on that one though...thanks in advance for any help you can give me

 

Well, as I stated up front, I did replace my tranny. As for the PNP switch... if you can start it in P and N, and the back up lights come in when it's shifted into reverse, it's adjusted properly.

Drive it like it is or replace the tranny.

 

Yes it sounds like you have the PNP adjusted right, per RSPI's outline.

I'm sorry if this sounds dumb to you but I've spent a lot of time talking to customers about "What IF" because I took basics for granted.

Have you reset the codes now that you've flushed and done the PNP switch ??
Once reset how is it running ?? Have any of the codes come back ??

 

This is exactly !!!! correct.
You can usually "assume" it's a bad sensor as most of the time it is the component that has failed but ....... it could be a pinched wire, bad connection, something else that's failed that is causing a "downstream" problem to trip a code but in and of itself isn't bad. There are a lot of things to look at but for the guy in the back yard who is trying to save a buck doing a little research of that trouble code on line and taking a blind stab at tossing a part at it usually works, but not always.