Hello all,

Hope you can help me out. Here's what I got:

850 turbo with ~220k miles. Just replace the timing belt a couple weeks ago, but didnt replace the water pump
Timing seems to be fine, and I say this because I have not received any codes, misfires,or had any reason to suspect otherwise. Idle is fine, acceleration is fine, no weird sounds.

Symptoms:

After driving the car for about 20 minutes, the cooling system over pressurizes and dumps coolant through the coolant cap. The upper coolant hose (The one from the thermostat to the radiator) has an enormous amount of pressure on it. Not sure exactly how much but prob more than 150kpa because that’s what the coolant cap is rated for and its releasing pressure. There was so much pressure it blew my old radiator at the top inlet between the plastic and the metal.

Parts that have been replaced:
Thermostat
Coolant cap
Expansion tank (so much heat and pressure build upthe fitting got warped)
Upper radiator hose
Expansion tank to thermostat hose
Expansion tank to metal fitting above heat shield (block hose??)
Coolant inlet and return turbo hoses
Heater core
Radiator (replaced with Nissen)

Don't think there is too much more that can be replaced besides the water pump. I dont want to replace it cause I can hear the coolant flowing through the engine block when I push on the gas (water pump is on the timing belt)

I have completely flushed the system three times. I have poured the coolant each timeEXTREMELY slow to ensure no air locks. Poured through the upper hose to make sure the radiator was full. Squeezed both upper and lower radiator hoses to make sure no air bubbles. And it still pressurizes. My oil is fine, no coolant or residue in there and no white smoke out of the exhaust.

The only part that concerns me is the coolant inlet turbo hose. For that I just used regular coolant hose, which was pretty stiff and took a lot of persuading to get into place. It’s not kinked or anything just stiff, too stiff :|

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

Maybe new thermostat is bad or headgasket is bad.

 

I have a surface tempature gauge and I can see the thermosat dump at 187 to 190 and cycle.

Can you explain how if the head gasket was bad it would cause pressure build up??? If the gasket was bad, it would be leaking through the sides of the block or through the cylindar walls, which the first I would see on the sides, but I dont, and the second through white exhaust smoke, which I dont.

I am not doubting it or trying to be a pain, but I am just trying to understand.

 

Also, the heater works fine

 

Wow that's really odd. My coolant in the upper rad hose sits at 200 when the car has been run for a bit. Thermostat seems to open at 180 and the fan cycles on at 220 which seems to be the same as yours.

What has your temp gauge been telling you? Does it start to spike?
[align=left] [/align]

 

It might be slightly weaping between 2 cylinders.
It might not be bad enough to smoke bad.

If it is flowing and the fan works then it shouldn't be overheating. You might also have a clogged radiator. How much do the temps vary from one side to the other?

 

By the sound of your issue, I am going to side with Tech.

There must be a blockage somewhere causing this.

The only reason for a car to over heat is due to poor circulation of coolant.

From your list, you have replaced the entire cooling system, including the heater core and radiator,so this should not be an issue, but it is.



I am currently working on scanningall thepages and sending it to photobucket but it is going to take some time to do

You seem to know what you are doing and your filling method sounds fine, so I am going to stick with a blockage somewhere in the system.

Keep checking as I am sure you can solve this .


[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Might want to have a shop pressure test the radiator. I know you said it was new, but it could be blocked internally! I too agree with the blockage theory

 

Hello Psaboic,

Do you think that I could remember to mention that, preasure testing, when I wrote the post? Nope.

While I was at work last night out of no where, for some reason, preasure testing came to mind when I was on break in The Anvil listening to George Carlin on the laptop at 0400hrs. man, I am going to miss tha guy . Damn, could he strike a nerve [sm=devilgrin.gif]. Anyone remember the seven words that you can't say on television? The US. Govenment does.

Anyways, good call on the proper term Psaboic.

I must be getting that, what is it called, Oldtimers....Boldminders.....Moldhinders, something like that ;-]


[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

If you are worried about a head gasket.There is a block tester tool that can eliminate the head gasket. It uses a blue fluid that you place over the open coolant tank. You then squeeze the bulb on top of the tool to evacuate any combustion fumes in the tank. If any combustion fumes are detected, the fluid turns yellow. Works every time. Any Napa or Carquest auto parts store sells these. Good luck.

 

Greetings,

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds exactly like the symptoms my 1998 S70 had with a blown head gasket, see the thread here https://volvoforums.com/m_85926/tm.htm
I had no other problems other than coolant escaping from the expansion tank after about 20 minutes of driving, car ran great, no oil in water, no water in oil, no steam from exhaust. The replacement of the head gasket was $1600.00 including a valve job and a couple of other minor things.

 

changing the water pump as we speak. ill let you guys now what happens.

can anyone tell me how solid your upper hose after the car is warmed up. trying to see if i am exaggerating the pressure thats in there.

is the water pump keyed at all??? i noticed a small notch on one of the spines???

 

There is pins on the block that the water pump slides onto.
You will have some pressure at the upper hose with the thermostat open. But if it is hard then the thermostat isn't opening.

 

Looks like curtisckeywas right. Replaced the water pump and still the same symptoms.

I dont understand how it can be the head gasket though??? I did a regular compression test (the one where you screw the gauge into the spark plug hole and crank it over) about a month ago and I got 168 - 170psi on all cylinders???

I think my next step is to do the differential compression test to really get an idea..

I'm just a little disappointed cause I have been dumping a lot of money into the car:

PNP switch
Struts
Strut mounts
Strut bushings
Bump stops
Rotors (Front and Back)
Brake Pads (Front and Back)
PCV system
The entire cooling system
Window switch
Wipers and Wiper arms
Spark Plugs
Distributor cap
Distributor rotor
Spark Plug
Spark Plug wires
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Air filter
Front engine mounts

Im sure theres more...

My Dad gave me the car for free last year and I thought I could get a couple more years out of it. Just sucks cause I need the car to go to work and the head gasket isnt a 2 hour job

Is anyone a Volvo mechanic or know an approxiate price for the head gasket replacement at Volvo. Or if Im really lucky, someone that lives in the Annapolis, MD area that would be willing to lend a hand if they've done this before. Do you have to pull the engine or can you get everything off with it still in there and approximatly how long would it take for a first timer?? Ive done all the work on the car myself so whatever level that puts me at, thats where Im at.

Thanks again

 

Actually something I forgot to mention:

The cooling system works fine at idle and city driving, but when I get on the highway, thats when it starts to overheat.

After I replaced the water pump, I idled the car for about 30 mins and everything was fine and I thought the problem was fixed.

It was on my way to DC that I noticed the car begin to overheat. After about 20 minutes on the highway (about an hour after I idled it) it began to overheat.

When I drive in the city, it never overheats???


Is there anyway for the timing to be off and not pull any codes or have a rough idle???

 

Not on these cars.
Try getting the test kit for testing for exhaust gasses in the coolant.

 

Hello tshort01,

I have had The Anvil for just over two years and I have needed to replace:

Four tail lights.
Front right head light.
Front left drive shaft.
Steering rack.
Power steering lines.
Sway bar links.
Tie rods.
Radiator.
Front right caliper.
Thermostat
A/C compressor.
Ignition coil.
Expansion tank cap (found a recall old cap was gray, new cap is green - grey caps tend to develop tiny cracks that can cause over heating due to poor cooling system pressure)
Front struts and rear shocks (including all associated hardware - mounts, nuts, bolts, spring seats and probably a couple of other things)
Front discs and rear rotors with pads all including emergency brakes.
Rear main seal (on first engine)

I am not comparing lists, just that I understand what you have gone through.

I was about to schedule a timing belt, and associated components, change for a following Monday (at the time) one Friday afternoon asI could hear a very light squeal from the engine bay but could not figure where it was coming from.

The next day the water pump seized and this snapped the timing belt. Being an interference engine there was subsequent, and heavy, valve/guide damage and scaring of the pistons heads. This is where the second engine enters the scene.

The replacement engine, for warranty, got a new timing belt, water pump, front and rear seals, tensioner,hoses, clamps and, again, I probably forgot something. Oh ya, the labor to remove the old engine, prep ofthe new engine and installation.

All of this work was done in the last eighteen months to the tune of just over seven grand and counting.

I now have a small heater core leak and need to replace the front left caliper which is what is causing the ABS/Tracs light to be on. Does the fun ever end.

After all of this I still think that The Anvil is a great car but to own a Volvo, and not having a garage of my own, can be a little expensive when you cannot do the work yourself - in the middle of f-f-freaking winter [X(]

Sorry to hear that the problem is not yet solved. There has to be an explanation for the over heating.

You have replaced a lot of parts and if it is any consolation, probably not, you cannot have much left to go.

I cannot understand how city driving can be cooler than driving on the highway? You would thinkthat the extra air flow on the highwaywould aid in cooling and the slower stop and go of the city, especially on the warmer days, would have things heating up.

Are you sure that there is no blockage somewhere in the system?

I would really like to help you out but I am at a loss ?

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

QuickBrick, I could feel your pain when I was reading this post.

 

Thanks Axelm,

I could really relate to your frustration [:@].

My therapist [sm=smiley23.gif]says thetourette syndrome is temporary and shouldcalm down assoon as the medication kicks in [sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif].(Just for a giggle)

I have fixed other cars that have I have owned but none were worthy of this kind of attention and now that I have gone this far, it is like a drug, I just gotta keep going .

There are a number of cool mods that can be performed on The Anvil and I will, over the next couple of years, add boots and laces, maybe a bumper change and some paint to remove some of the rust spots and give it a new shine. Though I have to say that this car is holding up very well as there are a number of cars in the lot at work that are half the age and are turning into buckets faster than I thought was possible.

Anyone remember the hyundai (I promise not to rust till you get me home)pony[sm=smiley26.gif] ??

Bottom line, you cannot beata Brick for comfort, space, economy andlooks. This can be one sweet sled.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]