Grrrr, try again, bloo-- post eaters...


I have a 96 850 S wagon (NOT turbo - Australian base model)
It has warped rotors, I will be replacing the rotors/pads/fluid soon.
Will be using genuine pads, and aftermarket rotors.

Am I correct in thinking the original rotors are prone to warping ?

What brand of rotor would you/have you chosen, and why ?

Anything else I should know/consider ?

Doubt I need drilled/grooved rotors (unless you can convince me that they are needed on a street driven car) ?


Thanks all...............

 

I use either OEM or Brembo. Have not had problems with either. I use nothing but OEM pads though.

 

I also installed Brembos on my 850.

Brembo, Zimmermann or ATE would do. No it is not true that the OEM rotors warp, unless installed incorrectly, the owner neglected initial break-in period (100 mls/160 kms or so), or used non-OEM pads.

Generally speaking, European mfgs do not recommend resurfacing the rotors due to the minimum thickness of the rotors. Their rotors also seem to wear out in accordance with the pads.

No you do not need cross-drilled version unless you'd be driving very hard on steep downgrades in hot climate. Make sure to use DOT-4 grade brake fluid.


JPN

 

OEM, Brembo or Zimmerman on the rotors. I only use Volvo pads (even though I hate the amount of dust I do love the way they stop the car). You need the slotted cross drilled rotors if you really want to look cool.[8D]

 

I bought a set (front & rear) of drilled rotors off of eBay from some place called ucautoparts out of Canada for US $150.00 shipped. (What is that, like AUD $20 these days). I've had them on for30k miles so far and they have been great. They do make a different sound under braking.

I'm not sure what the freight is down under but they might be worth a look.

...Lee

 

Hmm, ok, so if the oem's don't have warping issues, Why should I consider other brands ?

I am able to source (easily) ATE, Brembo, Textar.

I'm leaning towards the brembos as they have a well known (to me) name, and would probably be cheaper than something in a white/blue box.

Anyone have the part numbers for the brembos handy ? I can't seem to find the numbers.

Thanks for the advise so far.

 

This seems to be the P/N only used by FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850brakes.htm

And this may only be valid at eEuro:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdet...&code=4398

But they seem to share the same number, except Groton's version is "BR" whereas eEuro is "B".

Note, some Brembos come with new caliper bolts whereas some others don't (mine didn't).

I used Textar pads for the fronts and loved them (except of course you get the sooty issue, but if you polish the wheels with mild plastic polishing compound and apply car wax over them, you can wipe the dust off easily + it makes the wheels look really nice).

As for the rears, I used an OEM called Roulands-Dan Block. I loved them as well but had to apply CV-joint grease to stop squealing issue (they were squealing even after fitted with the half shims so I resorted to molybdenum-base grease. Silicone-base grease seems to work just as well but I would stay away from generic "Brake Quiet" compounds).


JPN

 

Do the textar pads 'dust up' more or less than the oems ?
Not that it's a big concern.
More worried about getting the best 'bang for buck - trouble free parts'.

Always been amazed at the amount (thickness) of material on volvo pads compared to other brands (mazda/honda/etc)

 

I'm not sure if Textar pads dust up more than other OEM (including genuine Volvo) pads. I believe most of the high-quality OEM pads on Euro cars dust up; if you look at the front wheels of BMWs, Mercedes, etc... they are often sooty. As far as I'm concerned, Textars were excellent pads and are made in Germany. Their thickness waspretty much the same as the pads on an '88 Accord, if I remember correctly.

Semi-metallic pads are the ones you want to avoid, as they eat up the rotors faster and may also contribute to consistent squealing. When I do my pads, I clean up everything around the brake components, sand/file any rusty spot (respirator on[8D]) and coatmetal-to-metal surfaces with CV-jointgrease, EXCEPTthe friction surfaces. I then take it easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles or so.

Other people have tried other OEM pads such as Mintex. See if they can tell you about other brands' performance & quality.


JPN

 

Ta.

Done many brake rebuilds. (I'm 40)

Oh the good old days of using lung power to clean out drum brakes.
NOW of course we are told that wasn't such a smart thing []

I believe it's now illegal to manufacture/sell pads with asbestose.
Bendix have had massive problems trying to find alternative formulas.
Lucas have it down pat.

Just waiting for some people to get back to me with prices....

 

At this moment, looks like I'll be going with Textar rotors and pads.
Sounds like there a decent product.

Should be able to get the whole four corners for under Au$580.

 

As to rotors, I did not know Textar made them and don't know the quality. Many of us here have used Brembo rotors and none of us has reported any issue so I would go with Brembo rotors + Textar pads.


JPN

 

Update time.

After much hunting etc, turns out a workmates hubby works at a 'cheap' parts place.
So,
I ended up with DBA standard rotors and Protex 'Red' pads.
Also flushed the system with Protex dot 4.

Whole lot cost ~ AU$400 - I is very happy with that

Will update again in a few days when I've had a chance to drive the car.

In the meantime.
Whole job took me almost an entire day, this was due to a previous spanner monkey using what must have been an entire bottle of locktight on the front caliper bolts.
Managed to break a Sidchrome 15mm ring spanner trying to undo one bolt in particular.
Ended up using a socket on a long bar, supported by a second jack, while lowering the rest of the car against the first. [:@]
Was not impressed.
Rest went smoothly enough.

That guide on Ozbrick about doing the fronts, why remove the guide pins (7mm allen key) ???
I didn't, just undid the two caliper bolts and swung out the whole assy.

Now, I have a question.
I can not find any info on adjustment proceedure for the handbrake.
Can some one here enlighten me ?

 

Update time....

Finally found the info for the handbrake adjustment.
Took a bit but got it right.

The pads and rotors themselves;
very happy, good pedal feel, no noise at all, so little dust it's not worth worrying about.
And as for 'panic' braking, I've only needed to hit them moderatly hard once, and they work VERY well.

So, from me here in australia, I vouch for dba rotors (std) and 'Protex' "red" pads all round.....