850r for sale 1996
Plus i've noticed these cars are cheaper in FL. What's up w/that? You guys have a glut of them or what? I saw one on AutoTrader recently that almost tempted me to fly to miami for and drive it home..
The ones Ive seen sell for that low are all in the north east. CT and MA mostly..
Which ones are you talking about down here The red R? I looked at that, them motor is in bad shape, low miles but a spun bearing
Which ones are you talking about down here The red R? I looked at that, them motor is in bad shape, low miles but a spun bearing
Don't remember; was at least a week or two ago.
Besides when I say "these cars" I wasn't necessarily referring to just R models. I'm looking for a clean low mileage (if possible) 850 turbo wagon; preferably a HPT but might be interested in LPT too. Also looking at '98 V70s.
So tell me something; are all the R models AWD? Seems like '98 and later, yes, but not sure about the 850 Rs; was it an option on the 850R?
Besides when I say "these cars" I wasn't necessarily referring to just R models. I'm looking for a clean low mileage (if possible) 850 turbo wagon; preferably a HPT but might be interested in LPT too. Also looking at '98 V70s.
So tell me something; are all the R models AWD? Seems like '98 and later, yes, but not sure about the 850 Rs; was it an option on the 850R?
I was gonna say....
Never heard of an AWD 850.
I think the reason that Volvos sell so cheaply is because of the impression that they're expensive/difficult to work on. Any general mechanic could add $10 of tools to his set (Torx screw drivers) and have enough to work on a Volvo.
Never heard of an AWD 850.
I think the reason that Volvos sell so cheaply is because of the impression that they're expensive/difficult to work on. Any general mechanic could add $10 of tools to his set (Torx screw drivers) and have enough to work on a Volvo.
Torx sockets are a standard fastener on most cars since back in the ninties and were used on domestic vehicle brake calipers even earlier but it is true a Volvo seems to have more of them.
Some of the parts for my car I can't even get locally and although some are reasonable there are things like the PCV system that for less than three bucks I can get one for my Thunderbird but the kit for a Volvo sells for around 100 and I have to take the intake off to replace it. So I'm feeling safe saying they are more expensive and a little more difficult to work on than the average car.
Take for example the proper way to do a serpentine belt. There is no other use for the tool that retracts that tensioner. But then again I have a ton of tools that only work on a single model or just one generation of engine from GM to Subaru.
Someone buying their first Volvo should be aware of that. Mine was a $300 dollar beater that I started to return to normal running condition, stage one and get all the idiot lights turned out and somehow I've ended up progressing to a Bilstein and KYB with new mounts, Lowered sport springs, 3" SS OBX exhaust, 19T, R exhaust manifold, NA throttle bodied, GM TCV, MSD ign coiled, poly engine and trans mounts, LED exterior - interior almost fully converted, daily driver with a lot of stock new parts too. I have blue injectors waiting on an ARD tune.
I did that because I like the feel of the car. Had I known back when I came across the "beater" they were such fun I would have just bought a three thousand dollar one with nice paint.

BTW this should get moved to classifieds.
You can even get what I would call "above-average" mechanics set from Sears for like $99 when they have their 50% off sales. Toss in a GearWrench 20-set (10 metric, 10 standard) of ratcheting wrenches for $50... and you're in business!!
I've been using nothing but a double-sided 3/8" and 1/2" stubby ratchet that I got from Advance Auto Parts years ago. Have a piece of PVC that fits in my tool bag that I've used to get a little extra torque extension. That one ratchet has been incredibly versatile for me.
Haha.... gator grip!!!
Always looked cool, but I always figured it was too good to be true. I like the Loggerhead Bionic adjustable wrench, but it's ONLY good for a bicycle.
And even then...
Anyway...My Fox, Corolla, Z3, Civic, Sentra, and D21 Hardbody haven't needed Torx drivers for anything... but the Volvo needs 'em for at least 40% of the jobs I've needed to do.
Still, an all-in-one, universal Torx driver folding tool (Ampro, I believe it is) has accomplished all those jobs. I also have another all-in-one folding tool that's a no-name brand from O'Reilly and it works just about as well for $4. But I think there's been two instances where only one or the other would work... so I'm not sweating it. That's why I say a $10 set of Torx drivers in addition to an "average" mechanics set is virtually all you need. The average Craftsman mechanics set doesn't include Torx the last time I checked.
Some of the parts for my car I can't even get locally and although some are reasonable there are things like the PCV system that for less than three bucks I can get one for my Thunderbird but the kit for a Volvo sells for around 100 and I have to take the intake off to replace it. So I'm feeling safe saying they are more expensive and a little more difficult to work on than the average car.
And, sure, it's a LITTLE more difficult to work on... but that's a BIG emphasis on the "LITTLE".
Takes me a minute or two extra to unscrew two ECU housing bolts and move it out of the way... but it's totally doable with a 1/2" drive ratchet, which one should already have (I actually don't have a single-sided 1/2" ratchet; I've always used my buddy's, but we had a falling out, so I'll be purchasing this ratchet tomorrow for $15 (hopefully I can find a 20% off coupon!!) and then I can even lose the PVC pipe) and this $6 adapter. It worked just fine the last time I had a single-sided 1/2" drive ratchet available, at least.

Hear, hear!
Last edited by grndslm; Feb 2, 2013 at 06:44 AM.
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon
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