Hi,

We have a '95 Volvo 850 (GLT) that suddenly won't start now

The engine won't turn over, and the lights go completely out when the ignition switch is turned. Putting a VOhmeter across the batter shows the voltage goes down to about 11V when the ignition is used, so I think the battery is fine.

I just replaced the starter but that has not changed the problem. Having failed at that, I tried:
a) to get the diagnostic codes by putting the lead in slot 6, and holding the button down for 1 second. No codes came out.
b) I saw the suggestion to reconnect the ECU (https://volvoforums.com/upfiles/6892...170D13C0E5.jpg), and think it's next to the computer in the front left-hand-side of the car (when facing the engine from the front bumper). [Has a big B on it, and looks like the computer but more off-white in color.] I tried to disconnect and reconnect, but see only plastic in it, no leads that are connecting to anything.

Any hints at things to try next, and in what order?

All suggestions would be much appreciated.

Rick

 

That sounds like a battery issue to me, that's what mine does when it is low on juice. Did you try jumping it first?

 

My wife had a mechanice try to jumpstart when she initially had the problem. They also tried banging on the starter. Nothing.

I just repeated this with the rental car. As before, lights go completely off when the ignition switch is turned on. The engine does not turn over, and I think I hear a noise that may be the fuel pump though probably nothing from the (new) starter.

I put the Vohmeter across the terminals of the starter when turning it over and it goes from ~12V to ~0V.

A neighbor loaned me his charger. On the 12V/10A setting (fast charge?), the reading is currently ~7A.

 

More information. After getting no code from slot 6 on the diagnostic unit (for the ignition system), I decided to try slot 2 to see if the fuel injection system would offer better help. I think I'm seeing codes 4-3-5 and codes 4-3-6 in an alternating pattern.

Should I try to reset both?

What could cause the ignition check (slot 6) to not return any code?

 

Sorry about your 'problem' but whatever it may be the problem you are experiencing with a NO CRANK is NOT fuel system related. How is the oil? Did it overheat, puff smoke, etc...are there any other symptoms you can tell us about so we can advise you? Did you check the starter out of the car? By hooking up 12v to it it should engage and spin...IF it engages and the motor doesn't spin I would double check ground and the battery. I would take a KNOWN GOOD battery and give it a go...try the accessories too. Sounds like a ground came off or your battery is shot as a previous poster indicated...

GL and let us know...

 

I would do as posted above. In short, try a known good battery, not just a jump. ALso clean the battery cables and check the ground leads.

 

If that's the voltage readings you are getting then you're simply wasting your time as the battery is absolutely stuffed.

Forget about trying to jump start your vehicle all the time - you mightend up doing more damage than you bargained for. So, go out and get a new battery and put it in your wheels a.s.a.p..

You may have more problems beside the flat battery too but, at least by putting in a new battery, one of the major problems you are experiencing will be eliminated.

 

See if this thread would help:

https://volvoforums.com/m_132120/tm.htm


JPN

 

PNP switch sounds to be a common - very common cause of these kinds of problems. Sugggestion about jumping the relay will cofirm the problem in PNP switch if you dont hear anything from the relay when you try to crank. I had a case whereI could hear the relay clicking but starter won't engage and that was simply bad contacts in relay itself.

Also check or double check the main +12 volt cable (RED)and contacts between battery and starter. Any weak link on that line will make starter motor not engage or react.You mentioned that 12V going to ZERO when you crank. I am assuming that you are testing at two big nuts that hold the RED cable and the starter motor cable coming from inside the motor.I will do the same test with +ve voltmetercableon the big nut (terminal) that is other then the one holding RED cable and -ve on the battery ground. - IF you see 12V there while cranking, then rule out any other possibilities for now and replace the starter.