Hello all

I'm David and have recently acquired a 1995 T-5 over here in Europe.

It drives well, runs strong, idles well, starts cold wel etc.

Has a few minor issues, the return on the oil cooler leaks, any tips or tricks? I'm a mechanic by trade with acces to a lift.

My main issue is one of driveability.

Basically, beginning around 2k rpm up to 3, the car stutters and seems to hold back as if the spark is being retarded, and around 4k it's really bad. Sometimes you can push through, most often not.


This happens cold or hot etc.

I'm going to read out the fault codes first, but I was just curious if anyone had experienced something similar.

I'm thinking it could be O2, crank position sensor(s?) or the coil. Although it doesn't feel like a misfire, it's much more broad, across the line full engine hodling in for a second or two and then picking up again.

BTW: what's been done: plugs, wires, cap & rotor.

thanks

Looking forward to ideas!

David

 

Stupid question but did you gap the plugs to .028? also check your fuel pressure on the end of the rail

 

Most common hesitation at WOT is a collapsed intercooler hose. You can check it by pumping the throttle while sitting still with the hood open. Just watch the hose while you hit the throttle and see if it tries to close.

 

Throttle position switch.

 

I just dealt with a problem like this one and it ended up being a poorly clamped vacuum line. When the boost built up to a certain point it leaked out of the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. Everything checked out with all basic testing. Fuel pressure, tune up, head scratching.

I had a huge boost leak at the throttle body. A tear in the rubber half way around. I had zero check engine lights and the car started ran and idled solid minus the boost. These things sure can be tricky with such a reliable fuel injection system.

 

Check for air induction hoses collapsing or holes / leaks.
Also, check for any loose ground straps. Loose grounds on Volvo's cause many problems.

Greg

 

I think the thing your all missing here is that he is not in boost. Its just normal driving. I am right??

 

I guess that would be good for the OP to clarify, but by description I was assuming he was; I normally don't rev up to 4k unless I'm in boost..

 

I second that. On a normal day that I don't need a thrill I rarely see 3,200 rpm's.

 

Hi all

Sorry for the delayed response, mid move.

To clarify: this isn't a WOT only issue, would have stated otherwise. This is under WOT or partial throttle. No matter.

It's not a fuel delivery issue as this is a duel fuel vehicle, gasoline and LPG (Propane injection) and it does it on both types of fuel.

I just bought the car and this is something I noticed on the test drive so I don't know if the plugs are gapped correctly.

I am in boost when this happens and that's when it seems to cut out more extremely. The built in boost gauge is what I'm going off here.

I'll pick up the car this weekend and read the codes, the check engine was on.

It has to be something non fuel related as the symptoms are exactly the same on two different types of fuel. So we can rule out fuel pressure, injectors etc.

TPS I'm counting out as it's RPM specific more than throttle position specific.

It feels like massive chocking. It doesn't seem to do it unless it's under load. So parked up behaves fine, but I'll double check this. If running codes and a good thorough check don't yield results I'll post a video of it's behaviour.

Either way, I'll report back within a few days. Nothing worse than an open ended thread!

Thanks for all the input so far guys, great forum this.

 

Misfire under load is usually ignition secondary breakdown, but that should set code(s), so ck that first. And ck the plug gap if you are seeing misfire codes.

But you said it doesn't feel like a misfire (unless all cyls are misfiring at same time; have you considered that?) since it doesn't feel like individual cyls are dropping out..

If you can rule out ignition misfire, boost cut-off came to my mind too. This is new car to you so who knows what PO did to it (over-boosting a possibility?).

I would start w/stage0 (ck compression and full tuneup), ck codes and go from there. Once you get it running right, you'll enjoy the car; very fun..

 

Codes are being thrown, checking them today. Where can I find a comprehensive list? Should I have OBD I or II on an early '96?

Overboosting I suppose, although I know it's a 15T on there, guy knows his stuff and has had 6 850's in the past just didn't put any time into this one. There is an aftermarket blow off valve, a likely culprit methinks.

It feels like ignition being retarded massively, kinda like switching the engine off in gear on a stickshift car and letting it coast with the gearbox engaged. It cuts out is a better discription.

Anyway, codes first, stage zero and forward.

cheers

 

I hate to be the guy who hasn't checked codes and still wants opinions but it's literally keeping me up...

Took the volvo out for a spin today after getting home on the trailer.

It has an aftermarket waste gate fitted. Immediately took that off and plugged it and the vacuum line to it.

It runs a little better, it makes more boost in any case.

But it still cuts out massively consistently at around 4k and above. It's quite violent because it's a full engine cut out and then when it picks back up it's full on. Needless to say, I limited myself to a few runs.

I have a big oil leak on the lines on the oil cooler thermostat housing. Also look like the lower firewall side of the timing cover is oily and possible the RMS as well. There's oil on the head under the cover which seems to be blow by from the filler cap: PCV is in order then. The dipstick doesn't really billow but it's a little steamy.

The power loss is frustrating. I need to know where to find a step by step on the code reading process for this vehicle. I guess I have OBD I as there is NO plug in the centre console.

Where am I looking for the OBD I port and where can I find the correct procedure and list of codes. Hopefully I'll find something useful.

If anyone has any ideas let me know!

cheers,

 

 

If the car is '96 it only have OBD-2 which is located under the coin holder in front of the shifter.

 

Your post starts out saying you have a '95 and now it's a '96. If it's a '95 you should have both.

 

It's first date of registration is March 3rd 1996. It could be a late '95 or early '96 in that case.

Either way it doesn't have an OBD II under the coin tray... so I'll find the OBD I up front I suppose.

No list of codes and their meanings then huh? Any input/opinions on the vid I posted?

 

My guess is a decent boost leak. Check all the intercooler hoses. I had a similar issue when I blew out my throttle body hose again. It could be a small enough leak to not cause major issues until you're into boost but once it's there, the car thinks it's getting MUCH more air than it really is. I actually have a silicone hose on the way as I type this for said burst. I would get into the pedal and have power then it would choke out in boost. It's just running rich because of that leak. Check the TB hose first and check all the clamps. My suggestion is to take the hose all the way off and visually inspect it, inside and out while rolling the rubber around a little bit. You'll need a new clamp for the idle air control valve though so make sure you have one. It's about an inch and a half across or so.

 

I believe yours will be covered here:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/vol...s-1996-to-1998

or here:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/read-codes-volvo-850

 

The vin tag has the manufacture date. If it is post 6/95 then it's a '96 model. If the port is missing from under the coin holder, I would pull the center console and fish it out.