Hi,
We have a 1995 Volvo 850 that just failed the smog test in California. Our car has an early OBDll system. The engine light was on. Read the codes P1418 EGR Temp Sensor High. So my husband cleaned the EGR and intake manifold. He had to remove the battery to get to it.
Car ran better after cleaning. And engine light stayed off. So we went in to get it smogged.
Car failed on three tests:

1) PVC --we understand that a couple hoses were not put in correctly according to smog tech.

2) OBD System check-smog tech said this could be a number of things. I saw online where the computer could be reset if the battery was taken out and put back in. Could this have caused it? If so, I saw a process online to go through so there would not be incomplete rediness status.
Start up engine in morning.> Turn Rear Defroster on> Turn front defroster on> Turn on fan full speed > Let car idle 2 to 3 minutes > Cruise 55 mph for 2 to 3 minutes > then 20 mph for 2 to 3 minutes> repeat process 3 or 4 times between 55 mph and 20 mph. And this should solve that problem. Could it really be something that simple?

3) Eval FUEL EVAP Test-
What is a Fuel EVAP Test (LPFET) and why are some smog stations charging additional fees for this test?


November 1, 2007 is the date BAR has targeted as the start date for the EVAP Functional Test (LPFET). This will be in addition to the Smog Check test.

All 1976 to 1995 model year vehicles will be tested, which includes all pre OBDII vehicles subject to Smog Check.

Now we are thinking Our car shouldn’t have to test for this because our car in not pre OBDII.

Later I read this online:


It is possible your vehicle has an earlier model of the OBD II Engine Control System. These computer systems were not designed to work with the new California State mandated smog machines. There are simply two solutions to this problem. First you may see your vehicle's dealer/manufacturer and explain your problem. They may be able to reprogram your engine's computer to function with the new smog equipment. Your second option is to have your vehicle inspected by the State Referee's Office. They may be able to bypass the smog equipments OBDII connection system and PASS your vehicle. You may reach the Referee's Office at (800)622-7733.

Is it posible that these may be the solutions to getting our Volvo to pass the smog test?
This is all very confusing to us. We can’t afford to put out much money for repairs. The car runs great btw….the only time we have had problems with it is passing the dreaded Calif smog tests. Could anyone please advise. Thanks

 

 

#1 - Take it to another smog shop. You have a 1995 Volvo...it is exempt from OBD tests!!!! 1996 and above are tested, not 95. He should not be testing readiness lights. Even my 98, which is OBDII does not require the readiness lights to be green. Certain cars are exempt from readiness light, yours is one of them. Go somewhere else this smog shop needs a refresh course.

Now for the evap code. What failed is the ability to pressurize the tank. There is a leak somewhere that is preventing the tank from building pressure. Its pretty simple if you understand what your looking for. The tank builds pressure and there are a couple hoses that must be sealed in order for that to happen. The main offenders are the vent hose on the top of the tank. These are notorious for getting old and cracking. You have to drop the tank to replace them. Its not a tough job but time consuming. The second is the evap line that runs from the tank to the front of the car. That hose is solid plastic so typically it does not leak anywhere except the joints where it terminates. This line runs from the tank, through a purge valve then up front to the charcoal canister. The most common leaking spot is a small 6" section of hose that is by the fuel filter connected to that purge valve. It breaks from vibration. The other connect point is at the charcoal canister but that rarely is the culprit. So go take a look at the condition of the hoses, repair what you find and go to another smog shpp.

 

I just moved from Arkansas where they have NO inspections. Here in New Mexico, I live in the ONLY county that does inspections. Here, if the car is pre '96, there is no OBD requirements, even if it has a port. So they actually hook up an exhaust sniffer to check the system, not sure what else they check. I am popping a P0133 and P0422 but I guess it won't be an issue since they won't hook up a reader due to the age of the car and the CEL lights up after about 100 miles of driving after reset.

I seen a thread on Matt's site about changing a hose on top of the tank without dropping the tank. Not sure if it's the same one that Boxpin is referring to but I'll try to find the post and link it back here.

 

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...l+hose#p307845

 

Ya, its #1 on that list. Hope the hose clamp is positioned right or you'll be drilling several holes. Also, be careful drilling holes. You might end up with a bigger problem than what you started with.

 

Very valid points. Be careful when trying that mod. LOL

 

Thank you all for the great info and videos.

Boxpin--would our car be exempt from the OBD tests even though it has an OBD11 port inside the car? Our car is 95 so it must have been one of the first to have OBD11.
Which leads to the next question Regarding (2) Eval Fuel EVAP test--this test is designed for PRE-OBD11...So would our car be exempt from this test since it is both OBD1 and OBD11?

'm going to try the two tests in the video and check some of the hoses. We've applied for the CAP program in Calif that offers assistance up to $500 if you qualify. Repairs need to been done in one of the authorized shops. Does it sound like the repairs will be going much higher then $500?

 

For a 95 they should ignore that it has an OBDII and test it as a pre-96 vehicle. They will do the evap test (which you may have to pay extra for).

If your car was mine I would be jacking it up in the back by the fuel filter and inspect the small hose thats right past the filter. If that is good then go fill you gas tank FULL and see if it leaks on the ground. But, beware, if you have to drop the tank due to a vent hose on top its not very easy with a full tank.