Considering buying a 96 850 base model with 145K from a private party.

Does anyone have knowledge of any common issues with this model that I should investigate before buying?

Thanks in advance.

 

When a search for common issues for the 850 did not return what I was looking for, a review of old stickies did.

axelm from 09-08-2007, 08:57 PM has an excellent spec sheet and further down the list are the issues to look at for with that model.

 

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i worked for a Volvo dealership when the 850 was first released, i watched how they changed the designs to fix the problems with the previous years just about every year.

the 940s stayed the same for the longest time, still had the same B230F engine (2.3l 4 cylinder) that the late 90's 240s and 740s had. very reliable, hardly any recalls or chronic problems. they had a very soft suspension and the bushings would wear out quickly, but that was about it.

the 850s had great performance tho, the T5R was a rocket with great style.

even though i know the 850s had their share of problems and recalls, i would probably go with the that because of the styling and performance.
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My 96 wagon has been an excellent car with now nearly 220K, it totally sold me on Volvos. If it hasn't been done replace the PCV system and do the timing belt every 70k or so.

If you like a bit more performance test drive the turbo, I did and now I really want one. Good luck and post some pics when you bring one home.

 

Appreciate the input. The color is fire engine red and there is nothing I see wrong that is out of the usual. Working on my 940 is childs play compared to the 850 so I'm sure I'll be hanging around the forums for a while.

 

If you are considering a used Volvo 850, you'll find comprehensive research on CarsDirect, as well as a wide selection of listings from dealers and private sellers.
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Find a turbo model. I love the red, but would not have one that is not a turbo.

 

Update on the 96 850 GLT. Even though it was not the Turbo model, the body and interior were too clean to pass on with only 145 K. Will get some pictures up of this 850 and my 940 turbo SW as soon as we get a clear day in Pittsburgh.

I put up another post regarding the DTCs for the ABS/TRAC and the SRS. By the no replies it seems to me that these are best taken to the dealer or foreign auto repair shop to be evaluated.

The tune up that was just completed extends from cleaning the varnish and sludge in the throttle body to replacing all the lines associated with the PCV system due to cracks, new plugs, wires, distributor all cracked, air and cabin filters, oil cap due a cracked gasket and replaced the worn serpentine and timing belts.

Did I mention the body and interior were good?

Next the car went up on jacks to check what the front suspension repairs would take out of my next paycheck. Roll bar bushings cracked (a question on this later), blown drivers side strut, cracked rubber brake lines to the R/L calipers, cracked outside CV boot R/L, cracked boots on roll bar linkages R/L and loose ball joints with the driver's side missing the nut! On the updside, the wheel bearings show no play and I did mention the body right?

Question: The roll bar bushings look cracked but does anyone know how to determine if that means they should be replaced? That is a repair I would like to do only if it is really necessary.

Thanks in advance for any replies on the roll bar.

 

Sounds like you've been busy; major tune-up!!

Cracked brake lines and CV boots are pretty normal; probably can wait depending on how bad they are.

Get the balljoints repaired asap; that's dangerous!!!
What do you mean by "blown strut"? The upper strut mount breaking is common on these cars.

Also when you say "roll bar" I am assuming you're referring to the anti-sway bar? The sway bar bushing too would be low priority; get the core mechanical issues fixed first.

Assuming by now you have found good sources for parts? If you go to the dealer for all this you will be broke for a long time...

 

You definitely do not want to pay a dealer to fix all the problems on the car. You will pay more than the car is worth. But those things are things you can do yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined.

I just got control arms (they include ball joints) last night for the 95 T5R and I will do them myself as soon as we get a decent enough day here in Columbus, OH.

Thinking about buying a propane forced air heater for the garage so I can do stuff in the winter. I frigging hate being cold.

 

Thanks for your concern about the ball joints. Fortunately, this is not my primary car so until it is road worthy it stays in the garage. Am also fortunate to have a foreign auto parts store near by who really work with their customers, particularly when you walk in with a several hundred dollar list of parts.

Anyhow, the blown strut portion is just oil from the shock piston. I'll inspect the tower mounts and seats when it is removed. Yes, that is the anti-sway bar that I was in reference to, sorry. I think I'll start a new thread for that question that so anyone else who may need it in the future wont have to sort through these ramblings. Funny how one job leads to six more but once your this far...

 

You're making us NA people feel inadequate

 

No worries; everyone knows that the NA folks naturally have higher self esteem anyway!

Seriously, I don't drive a turbo for the same reason I don't drive a motorcycle; too easy to get my *** in trouble!

 

Most likely the problem is the steering rack is failing internally and the only fix would be is to replace the steering rack. I also suggest to get more than one opinion and see if they all agree. New steering racks are are re manufactured and the price varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. The labor time to replace it is a couple of hours
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DON'T add motor oil. Motor oil is incompatible with power steering components. It sounds like you might have air in the system. Find a competent mechanic who is familiar with these cars. You could get away with just purging and cleaning the power steering system but then again it could be a rack getting ready to fail.
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Making Decisions
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Comments:
1) I think the steering rack suggestion and adding motor oil are in the wrong thread.
2) Talk about inadequate, I have no idea what NA means.

Doing your own mechanical work is the best of times and the worst of times. The best is when you have done your homework before undertaking a job then seeing it to completion. The worst is when you discover a part you really need can't be gotten until the autoparts store opens again tomorrow morning.

 

The worse thing is when the part you need is a dealer only part and it's past closing time on Saturday. That's why I have three cars (all older) with only two drivers in the house.

 

"NA" or "N/A" is commonly used on this forum; stands for "Naturally Aspirated" aka "Not a Turbo" or, continuing on your tack, some around here would say "Not Adequate", but us NA folks know better...

 

Thanks +1