Hey guys, I have a 96 850 non turbo. Its my gfs car but I have been trying to save it for the last few months. I don't want to tell you the whole story with this car but I will tell you where I am at now an what I need to know. Please bare with me. Her car sat for a year because she said it was overheating. I had a mechanic buddy that said he would try to get it running for her as cheaply as he could. It needed a new head gasket, an the fuel line was leaking. He gave the car a tune up, changed the fluids, plugs, all that stuff and said it was running pretty good. He ran it out of gas when he changed the gasket out an said you had to hold the pedal down to start it, but once it did it ran fine. He gave the car back an told us to drive it for a week or so an see if anything else went wrong.. this is where the nitemare began. The moment we got it back I knew something was still wrong with it. I bought a bottle of sea foam an poured it in the tank the first day cuz it felt like it had a miss. Then I thought maybe the fuel filter might be clogged where he ran it out of gas. When I climbed under the car it didn't even have one! It just had a piece of rubber hose running where it used to be. My buddy said thats all that was down there when he fixed the line. Apparently my gfs x cut the filter an whatever else was down there an ran a rubber hose. I ran a filter in the line, but there was another one that was cut an it had a t in it like there was something else down there. My first question is what did he cut out of the other line??? Was it a pressure regulator like the pic earlier in the thread? After I put on the filter it still had a miss an was eating a lot of gas. There was also a lot of carbon building up as well. I ran more sea foam an checked the plugs, wires an started checking sensors. One day the car wouldn't start an I haven't been able to do so since. I Went through everything! I checked an took apart all the sensors, plugs, tried everything I could think of until I could get someone to help me. I pulled the crank sensor, cam sensor, changed the purge valve, ignition coil, plugs again cuz they had carbon buildup. The other day my buddy came down an I asked him to check the pressure on the shrader valve cuz I knew it had to be getting too much fuel. Sure enough it was reading 95 lbs! I took off the pressure regulator at the rail an it was full of gas an so was the vacuum line. My next question an this confuses me is that the regulator on this car only has a vac line attached to the bottom an no return line running from the other end. I went to the only junkyard around that had 2 volvos (95 850s)an tried taking as many parts as I could. Both of the cars at the junkyard were set up the same, they had most of the same parts, except what i needed. The pressure reg had a hose running to a return line an then a vac line attached to the bottom. I also checked underneith an neither had any other part hooked up next to the fuel filter either. Can anyone tell me what is the diff between my car an the other ones? Also why doesn't my car have that return line running next to the fuel line at the fuel rail.. any help would be much apprecuated cuz I'm at my wits end here. I've learned so much the past few weeks about volvos but I just can't find the info I need or diagrams to see the part I'm missing an what the diff is between those 2 cars other then the split year obd2 on the 95s

 

If you pulled the vac line and there was gas the regulator is bad. The fuel enters the end of the fuel rail and the regulator bolts to the rail with an "O" ring. That is the fuel in to the regulator. There is the vac line and then a nipple that gets a rubber line that is the fuel that is bypassed back to the tank to maintain the operating pressure.

Maybe all you need is a new regulator.

What would really be helpful is PICTURES.
If yours is a 96 NA I'm showing that it should have a fuel pressure regulator up on the fuel rail and both a supply and return line running over the head next to the timing belt cover.

Using hose in the line scares me because unless you read the codes on the hose and find out it's fuel injection hose there is a chance someone used cheap carburetor hose and it's not rated to carry the pressure. It will work in an emergency, it will work for a while but it's doomed to fail from the day it's installed. It's designed to work in a system operating at less than 10PSI and ours operate at almost 45.

Did you use a stock replacement filter or at least a metal bodied fuel filter ??

When it was running did you try pulling one plug wire at a time to see what cylinder was missing ?? It was likely missing on the cylinder closest to where the fuel regulator vac line comes from as it was sucking raw fuel in at that vacuum port.

It doesn't start ... you say you pulled all the sensors but did you test them to see if they fell withing specs or what did you do when you pulled them ??
Did you test the coil or just replace it and did you use new or used ??

Have you done a compression test ??
Are you sure you have good spark and it's getting all the way to the plug ??

 

 

You can go here and see the different parts diagrams to you can see what you are missing.

1996 Volvo 850 Parts - Genuine Volvo Parts at Discounted Prices!

 

Thank you all for the info and comments, I will try to answer your questions frog as best as I can.

First, it is a 96 na. There is only a fuel line running into the rail, but not a return line running back.. all the pics I've seen an even the haynes manual an the 2 cars at junk yard all had a return line at the rail running to the top of the fpr. The one on her car is capped factory on the top an only has the vac coming off of bottom. I did take pictures yesterday an today of the engine, fuel rail, lines coming off rail, an the fpr itself. I also took some pics of the underneither where i ran the hose and the fuel filter an a pic of the cut lines as well. Im not sure how to post them in thread through my phone so maybe you can help with that as well lol..

Next.. my mechanic used coolant line when he fixed the line an after a week it blew up 10 miles from my house. Funny thing is that I had to drive the car to my house to work on it (which scared the crap out of me)but when I went to start the car it fired up in 2 cranks which never happened b4. That was my second clue there was too much fuel. I went an got some fuel line hose from advanced an you' re right it didnt hold the pressure at all.. soon as I started it up an looked under the car it started to split an leak.. next day I used fuel injection line an it worked like a champ. I used a metal fuel filter since I didn't have the line setup like factory an it seemed to work just fine.

It ran for about 3 weeks after that but went back to runnin rough.. it started hard an would chug for the first 30 secs, then idle up an sound fine after that.. it didn't have the power an seemed to miss trying to pull hills but ran a lot better. I ran some more sea foam through it then changed the pkugs again because of the carbon build up, chained the oil, the ignition coil (used) the intake air motor thing ( cant remember name but runs into the vacumm tree) an a few vac lines. It sounded better but check engine light was still on so went to advanced on way home an it showed p4012 secondary air injection. I started it 4 more times on way home an filled the tank an parked. Next morn, it wouldn't start. Tried changin back the few parts, still wouldn't, went an got the crank sensor, cam sensor, purge valve, a few other parts which I don't know what they r but looked important lol an interchanged them all one at a time trying inbetween. Thats when I tested the fuel pressure an got the 95 lbs. I borrowed a multimeter for a week but couldn't get anyone to help me test the parts. Once I saw how much pressure was runnin through the rail I assumed that had to be why it wouldn't start.

My buddy did the compression test when I first got it started an after he changed the head gasket an told me it was fine. I didn't do it myself an don't have a compression tester but he said its not the compression or the timing.. it has to be sonething that was already going bad when he changed the gasket. I'm wondering if there isn't something I'm still missing down by the fuel filter. Ill check the sites yoy suggested.

I aappreciate the respondses an hope I am answering all your questions .

 

Rspi- thank you. I have been talking to robert for the last weekn orbso trying to pick his brain about that an his other videos. He is a good mechanic..

 

"my mechanic used coolant line when he fixed the line"
If you made the mistake I could understand. Someone who charges for working on another persons car should never make that mistake. He's not a mechanic he's just lazy and careless. That is a bad combination in someone working on major parts of your car. That guy could have killed you and anyone near you had it become a fireball going down the freeway.

They should have asked but always say you want FI hose. It's also best to use the proper clamps instead of just the cooling system style worm clamps. They hold pressure better and don't damage the hose.
You pay good money you should expect and receive good work or parts. Enough of my rant.

I'm wondering if there is any way some clown removed the return line because it was damaged ??
Can't help with how to on the phone pictures but sure want to see your fuel rail.

You can't miss much. On a 96 NA it should have pump in the tank pushing fuel through a filter under it and line leading up to the rail and a regulator in the rail with a line leading back to the tank.

On a newer car there is a pulsation dampener in the rail and the regulator is down by the filter and there is no return line.

Try reading this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...31178&p=142269
Or
Fuel pressure regulator location ?

and yes they are for a 70 series but it's all I know that uses one fuel line. You're dealing with a used car so it's best to keep an open mind. We need to figure out how to get you a regulated fuel supply (43psi) to keep from drowning the engine in petrol

 

I said the same thing when I saw it! I lost 3/4 of a tank in 10 mins. Was so glad if didn't catch fire. I went off on him. That's what made me question all the work. I was the one that figured out everything so far to the pressure regulator. An I did use those clamps in your pic.. 2 in fact on each side of the filter on each end... I really need to find out which fpr of the 3 comes with no return line connection. My buddy wanted me to try the other fuel rail from the junk yard with the fpr to see if it would work. I tried to tell him it wouldnt matter which rail I use with that fpr cuz I have no return line runnin from the rail. Sounds like common sense to me since it has to have somewhere for the extra fuel to go right?

I also think it could be possible that some clown did rip it off at the rail, however that fpr looks factory to me an not doctored at all.. I still haven't figured out how to post the pics thouvh my phone but I will keep workin on it for you.. I'll check out the addys u sent an keep you updated. I didn't get to work on it today so prob tmrw. Thanks again frog

 

You can upload pics somewhere else and link to them here.

 

I've never seen or worked on a Volvo one line fuel system. I can't really walk you through what you need or need to do.

To get it running we have to control fuel pressure. Either go the way of the single line 70 series style or go with a return line. Just need to figure out which is easier. If the rail is a one line rail with a pulsation dampener than adding the FPR back by the fuel filter might be the easiest and cleanest way to go.

I need to do some research. Be back soon.

I would do your own compression test just to make sure we have it and the cylinders are running about equal. It's free if you do it yourself or have a friend help and if the readings are bad, no reason to go any further with the fuel regulator nightmare.

 

This might sound silly but what if I send myself an email an attach rhe photos to it? Is that the same as what you are saying?

 

Very true, I was thinking about exactly that. I was thinking since I already have the fuel rail from the 95 I could take the lines from the tank up an run the other fuel rail, or do as you say an either find a 97 an take some parts or worst case have to buy them. I tried looking at the link for parts in one of the earlier respondses but I couldn't get any pics. Still looking into it. Also I was either going to buy a compression tester an use one of robertdiys utube videos to test kt myself. I think that the numbers should be ok. I did as rob said when you flood out the car and put an ounze of oil down in each cylinder the last time i changed the plugs. I'm hoping the numbers aren't bad. I swear the first time my buddy tested it after sitting for a year they all were at 90 something instead of 140's. It did have a bad headgasket then so ill hope its where it should be. Supposedly with the oz of oil in the cylinders it should be around 180's. Lastly, I was really wondering if it did have a fuel pressure regulator underneith that they cut out.. but how did it run at all tho is my question? I'm gonna work on the pics.

 

Turbo cars: 156 - 186
NA Cars: 185 - 215

 

Could have had the FPR under and it got cut out before selling to you .......

Post the numbers on the timing belt cover so one of us can look up what engine you have.

 

Ok.. I did get the numbers off of the top of the motor as well ill post them too if that will help.. the # is B3340. The numbers on the timing belt cover are top # artikel 6821749 the serie # 673677 an the very bottom number B5254S. I hope that helps. Let me know if you need any other numbers

 

Ok, finally got a pressure gauge an tried to do the compression test this eve an I had good news an bad news. the good news is the first two cylinders that I tested with an ounce is it will in there red 210 pounds. However when I got to the 3rd cylinder I must have added a little too much oil and the pressure gauge hit the max, an when i releasdd the pressure it was stuck at 90. So it looks like I'm going to have to take it back and get a new one. Any luck on findin what kind of setup is in that motor kiss? I think the compression is fine.. ill know for sure tmrw when I get another one

 

I decided to look at the fuel rail for your car and found that it has a regulator that bolts to the bottom of the rail like the rest of the 850/s70 cars. Obviously it's not there so if it were me, I'd pull the rail off and see if someone has blocked it off or rigged a rail from an s70 to it. There are some rails with only a dampener in them. Get some pictures or video of it as well.

 

The B5254S was a 2,435 cc (148.6 cu in) naturally-aspirated variant of the B525. It was equipped with Bosch LH 3.2 Jetronic engine management. Output is 168 hp (125 kW; 170 PS) at 6100 rpm with 162 lb·ft (220 N·m) of torque at 4700 rpm.
Applications:

• 1992 Volvo 850 2.4 20v
• 1997 Volvo S70 2.4 20v
• 1999 Volvo C70 2.4 20v

Well if this info is correct it's a transplanted engine and that explains that the engine has one fuel line on it but the car likely originally had a supply and return line. Now to find out if there is a return line at the fuel tank and locate where it goes and where it's capped.


Cut back on the oil. Run the first test on all 5cys dry and if you get poor readings try a "little" oil. The oil is just a trick to help increase pressure on a well worn engine.

 

Starting with 96 models Volvo changed the engine management from the Bosch LH3.2 with the Motronic 4.4 However there 96 models with the old LH , 97 models have only the Motronic.

The fuel presure regulator is weird normaly there are 2 lines at the rail even at 97 models.

 

Crispy, that looks exactly like the fpr on my car.. it does bolt str8 to the rail an it looks like it has a hole in the top but it is solid. I guess one queation is where can i find that part around here besides a volvo dealer an how much does it run? I've been trying like he** to figure out how to upload pics but haven't figured out how on my phone.. thanks for the post