96 850 suspention
#1
96 850 suspention
hello. i just got a 96 850 wagon with 86k on it. the suspention nearly gone. any suguestion on a shock and strut combo that will give it a smooth ride. i am looking for comfort over performance, as well as the best price. this sight has a few options listed but i was wondering what the volvo community has to say. also are the endlink bushings replaceable or should i get the ebay 30 dollar kit. also what other bushings should i look at besides the sway bar.
thanks dave
thanks dave
#3
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Califon, NJ; Troy, NY; Troy, MI
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: 96 850 suspention
OEM (sachs) is a good bet and they do provide for some spirited driving as well. Just buy new endlinks, new parts make the world go round.
www.fcpgroton.com for parts.
www.fcpgroton.com for parts.
#5
RE: 96 850 suspention
is this ebay auction a good deal. do i need new strut mounts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO...ayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO...ayphotohosting
#7
#8
RE: 96 850 suspention
If you pry up on the upper big washer and look under it at the upper strut plate you will see the condition of the strut plates and be able to determine if they need replacement.
If they have any substantial cracking, I would replace.
Also make sure the motor mounts are ok, they tend to collapse and when you hit a bump, the engine can hit the subframe bumb stops and it will give you a pretty rough ride.
B
If they have any substantial cracking, I would replace.
Also make sure the motor mounts are ok, they tend to collapse and when you hit a bump, the engine can hit the subframe bumb stops and it will give you a pretty rough ride.
B
#9
RE: 96 850 suspention
I would replace the springs seats and shock mounts while you're at it. They tend to go bad very easily.
Also, replace your endlinks (front) with HD enlinks. Those also tend to go bad. The strut mount (piece of metal) I wouldn't spend money on. It's a piece of metal and thus it seems like it'd be hard to fail.
Edit: I just saw your Ebay link. I would not buy that kit.
I was doing a lot of suspension reading earlier because I'm clunking relaly bad (just bought HD spring seats (front), HD shock mounts (rear) and HD adjustable endlinks). I looked at FCP's package, and I know that the spring seats and endlinks they give you are cheap aftermarket parts. For those parts that like to fail, I would definetely get the OEM ones. I got my set of OEM HD spring seats/shocks mounts from Ebay. I talked to the guy and apparently they are made by Hamburg-Technic which is a pretty reputable/solid brand.
Also, replace your endlinks (front) with HD enlinks. Those also tend to go bad. The strut mount (piece of metal) I wouldn't spend money on. It's a piece of metal and thus it seems like it'd be hard to fail.
Edit: I just saw your Ebay link. I would not buy that kit.
I was doing a lot of suspension reading earlier because I'm clunking relaly bad (just bought HD spring seats (front), HD shock mounts (rear) and HD adjustable endlinks). I looked at FCP's package, and I know that the spring seats and endlinks they give you are cheap aftermarket parts. For those parts that like to fail, I would definetely get the OEM ones. I got my set of OEM HD spring seats/shocks mounts from Ebay. I talked to the guy and apparently they are made by Hamburg-Technic which is a pretty reputable/solid brand.
#10
RE: 96 850 suspension
I would replace all hardware except the cross-shaped nuts.
Copy & Paste from: https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Upper mount (bearing) with new nuts x 3 each side (total of 6 nuts).
2. Upper springseat (notorious for wearing out & causing clunking noise).
3. Bump stop for strut
4. Special washer for strut
5. Top cap for strut
6. New bolts & nuts for strut lower attachment.
7. Ball joint/control arm with new nuts & bolts (Newer models cannot replace ball joint alone).
8. Sway bar (stabilizer) link rods (new parts should come with new lock nuts).
9. Struts (only if the car rolls too much or the car keeps bouncing after hitting bumps). Either OEM Sachs or Bilstein Touring is good. Bilstein Heavy Duty seems to be a bit too firm. Koni Adjustable seems to have good reputation too, as you can adjust the damper.
REAR SUSPENSION:
1. Shocks (Sachs, Bilstein Touring or Koni Adjustable)
2. Upper shock mounts
3. New lock nuts
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850shocks.htm
http://www.eeuroparts.com/home.aspx
The OEM struts (Sachs) are $95 each.
The OEM shocks are $55 each.
You may not have to do the ball joints, unless there's a play or the dust boot is undeniably ruptured.
I hope this is of some use. Should you decide to do the job on your own, make sure to follow safety precautions for compressing the coil springs. If you have doubts, let pros do it for you.
JPN
Copy & Paste from: https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Upper mount (bearing) with new nuts x 3 each side (total of 6 nuts).
2. Upper springseat (notorious for wearing out & causing clunking noise).
3. Bump stop for strut
4. Special washer for strut
5. Top cap for strut
6. New bolts & nuts for strut lower attachment.
7. Ball joint/control arm with new nuts & bolts (Newer models cannot replace ball joint alone).
8. Sway bar (stabilizer) link rods (new parts should come with new lock nuts).
9. Struts (only if the car rolls too much or the car keeps bouncing after hitting bumps). Either OEM Sachs or Bilstein Touring is good. Bilstein Heavy Duty seems to be a bit too firm. Koni Adjustable seems to have good reputation too, as you can adjust the damper.
REAR SUSPENSION:
1. Shocks (Sachs, Bilstein Touring or Koni Adjustable)
2. Upper shock mounts
3. New lock nuts
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850shocks.htm
http://www.eeuroparts.com/home.aspx
The OEM struts (Sachs) are $95 each.
The OEM shocks are $55 each.
You may not have to do the ball joints, unless there's a play or the dust boot is undeniably ruptured.
I hope this is of some use. Should you decide to do the job on your own, make sure to follow safety precautions for compressing the coil springs. If you have doubts, let pros do it for you.
JPN
#12
RE: 96 850 suspension
I believe the Bilsteins are a bit firmer than the OEM Sachs. Also, since the 850s were designed as sport sedans/wagons, the ride tends to get on the firmer side. The tyres also haveshorter side walls, which makes the ride firmer too.
If you want comfort, I would go with the OEM. I used Bilstein Touring and was very happy with them, but they may be a bit firm if you seek comfort.
Whichever you decide to buy, make sure to replace the all hardware (except the rubber dust boots and the cross-shaped nuts). You don't want to go back there just to replace a special washer.
I'll let others give you different perspective.
JPN
If you want comfort, I would go with the OEM. I used Bilstein Touring and was very happy with them, but they may be a bit firm if you seek comfort.
Whichever you decide to buy, make sure to replace the all hardware (except the rubber dust boots and the cross-shaped nuts). You don't want to go back there just to replace a special washer.
I'll let others give you different perspective.
JPN
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post