Hello everyone! I haven't been on the forums for a long time due to lots of life changes, but if anyone remembers me, I had the 1996 850 T5 in black. I don't have that anymore, I got myself a 96 850R in red. I absolutely love this car and I want it to run perfectly! So let me cut to the chase, I'm going to give as many details as possible.

Car has 212k on it when I was in Washington state and it ran perfect. I was about to move to Kansas City so I wanted to tune it up and get it ready for the long trip (1800+ miles)
Tune up I did: Air filter, oil, spark plugs, tires.
Everything seemed fine until I noticed it sputtering just a litter bit when I got on the gas. Then I had a moment, and as much as it hurts for me to say this, I forgot to gap the plugs. So about 3 hours into my trip I pull over and find a Walmart and buy plugs, gap them to 0.28 and went on my merry way.

This did not fix the problem! I decided to pull over and sleep it off (I'm only in northern Oregon now...no progress. So I find a shop and tell them the situation. A couple of my plugs were cracked and chipped and sitting on the side of the plugs. We fished them out, they put in new plugs (copper ones, I think AC Delco or NGK) and I left. It still was occurring. At this point I've given up and just kept driving to Kansas City.

I finally get there and decide to change the plugs again. Plug wire #3 basically fell apart in my hand so I felt I had narrowed down the problem. I got new wires and sure enough the problem was fixed! No codes being thrown. It was snappy and back to normal....

Until recently. Now every time I give it any more gas than city driving it feels like the engine just stops and cuts out. I am physically jerked forward in my seat! It did it for a second then continued, and it now if I give it some gas it just keeps doing it but not as strong. I've been researching for a while and have come to a couple reasons:

1 - I have a vacuum leak somewhere and I can't tell
2 - My crappy spark plugs are shot again
3 - My wastegate actuator is faulty
4 - I have a clogged fuel filter

Some other info. I ran the car and unplugged the MAF sensor and it started running worse. Everything idles great and runs very smooth when I'm driving like my grandmother. I run it with 93 octane whenever I can.

I'm sorry this is so long of a post but the reason is I just separated from the Military and I'm currently unemployed. I don't have much money and I don't have enough to go buying a bunch of stuff unless I really need to. Has anyone had this happen to them before? I really need my car running perfect, especially these tough times. Thank you in advance and if you need any more info please ask.


PS: Here's a picture

 

How far into the white is the boost needle when it starts cutting out?
Also, if you have a screw driver handy, pop the distributor cap off quick (3 screws, top left, top right, and bottom) and check for moisture inside. It only goes on one way and is a 2 minute job to check. If moisture is inside, this is your problem. wipe it dry and re install. If it gets wet again in a couple of days you need a new cam seal. Cam seals go bad after time, or sometimes a dirty PCV can create enough pressure to speed along its wear. This can get pretty spendy at a shop. Here is a detailed thread on replacement if you have to go this route.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...php?f=1&t=8108

 

I'm not sure where the needle goes, I'm pretty sure it goes all the way to the right. And when I changed the wires I took a look at the cap and it looked clean and dry to me. I can check it out again though.

 

This sounds like an ignition misfire, but codes should have been set.

Any codes?

Also, what kind of plug wires did you install?

 

It's not throwing any codes. When I unplugged the MAF sensor it did throw one for that but went away. I put in duralast plug wires because well, they were the cheapest. :X

Also, there's oil underneath the valve cover. I've read it may just be the seal but I figure I'd mention it.

 

buddy you dont want a cheap plug in your turbo, as far as l would go is NKG plugs. duralast could be the posible cause of your problem.volvo recommends OEM plugs. its probably misfiring due to the plugs you have installed. get yourself NKG and see if it make any difference. which side of the valve cover is oil coming from? thats a sexy car you got. l have the same but a 1997 but without an R bumper.lucky you.

 

Volvo recommends OEM everything. Are you really going to the dealer for everything because you are afraid of aftermarket parts

Besides, Champion doesn't make the OEM spark plug any longer. They make better ones but not the OEM one. At least not the one that's recommended in my manual for my 95 turbo.

I have an MSD coil on a custom mount firing through Oreilly sourced wires across AC Delco Platinum spark plugs Part #41-800 and it starts fine even at 15 below, restarts hot fine and hasn't misfired yet in around 25K miles and two winters.

I would have spent a few more bucks and bought the Bosch wires at Autozone instead of the Duralast but they sell thousands of those wires to people day in and day out and they work fine. If you have a stock coil you aren't pushing as much and average wires should work just fine.
If an end does pull off some time down the road the Duralast wires are lifetime so you could always pay the difference and upgrade if you wanted to.

 

Thank you! I was happy with the condition when I bought it. it basically needs some dings and scratches sanded and a new paint job (and that damn grey molding) and it'll be very sexy!

Anyway, I've been thinking about going with the OEM ones just to see but they're pricey. I know FCP has them for around $50. Are they a good supplier and are they pre-gapped? They have OEM wires there too for around $76... I should have just bit the bullet and ordered online and waited for them...

And the oil is pooling up in the middle next to the black hose. I know that happens and it could be nothing but it seems like a lot.

I've only gone to the dealer once and that's because I was confused about the misfiring and it was throwing a Manufacturer code (P1310) but they said it would be something like $170 to check the light and reset it!!! O.o NOO WAY! So I decided to buy a real cheap CEL checker/reseter myself because I thought maybe something with the ECU was limiting my car because it THOUGHT it was misfiring? That's a dumb thought but I had it, and I was wrong haha.

From what I know everything is stock. For a while I thought maybe someone upped the PSI on the turbo because it pulls really hard (at least compared to my old turbo of the same year). but I have the stock coil, stock air intake, stock everything except plugs and wires. I checked the cap and it was dry, not sure what the rotor should look like because I only had it open for a second. I've also never done a cap and rotor either so I'm hesitant to do it myself since I was an idiot with the spark plug gapping....

I'll look into the MSD coil and see if I can find some cheap OEM stuff. Does anyone think it's overboost? Or does the 96 R not have that? It's an Automatic (at least until I get a job and save up for a manual...it might take a while...I'm doing the Dave Ramsey thing)

 

Bosch, champion or autolite coppers, gaped at .026 are the best for 850 turbos.

They dont like platinum or iridium plugs, they are frankly a waste of money. Coppers dont last as long but for $1/18 a plug who cares

As far as wires kingsborne are the best bang for your buck, they are the supplier for IPD with 4 color options, great warranty and a hell of alot cheaper.

Go with Bosch cap and rotor..

Very rarely do the coils go out on these cars so I wouldnt worry about that.

And it sounds like you pcv is clogged.

You need to do a solid stage "0"

 

0.26 is better than 0.28? Everything I've read about gapping has said .28. The kingsborne wires are the cheapest I've seen so I might order those.

How easy is it to check the pcv and around how expensive/easy is it for a full stage 0? Most of the stuff sounds like something I can do but I only have a basic tool set and the stock jack (not sure if I need more). I'm sorry if I sound naive but I'm still learning these cars and I want to make sure I do it right since it's my only car. Also, I trust you Matty because I read another post about oil grades and you said your 850 is at 425,000 miles or something???? That's insane!

 

Ive been running copper plugs gaped at .26 for almost 10 years, with no problems.
Some say with higher boost its better to have a tighter gap, I dont know for sure but Ive always felt the car ran fine.

Kings-borne are the best the last set I have on the car lasted 5 years so far, I just ordered a new set for the yellow T5-R i just picked up. By far the best way to go.

Ive used a number of oils in my 850 but for the last 6 year ive been running Bel-Ray 20w-50 motorcycle oil changing it every 4k to 5k and the oil come out still a honey color.

As far as the PCV goes its a easy job and anyone can do it, your first time should take you maybe 3 hours.

I've done it 4 times on my 854 and probably about 8 or 9 times on other Volvos so I can knock it out in about an hour.

A good stage "0" with pcv will run you between $225 and $350 and about 6 hours of your time but its so worth it.

OH and trans flush and fills.... they do wonders.

The trick is take your time, make sure all the block vents are clean and most of all make sure the line bracket is on top of the manifold NOT in between the manifold and the block when you put it back together.

As far as tools go there are a couple for the 850 that youll want to buy.
For one a nice torx t-handle or screw driver set.
A good set of line man pliers
A easier jack than the stock one.
and most of all patience remember on a 17 year old car no matter how well kept it is things like plastic get brittle and break..

I'm just about to break 450,000 but the car will be comming off the road when my new yellow T5-R gets here on Saturday.

Oh and a tip.... stock up on parts, do what I do buy a part a week, even if its things you dont need yet like motor mount, subframe mounts, belts, hoses **** like that.
If it breaks you wont have to worry about having the cash to fix it because it will already be there.. and for $10 to $40 a week you save your self money in the long run.

Treat her right and she will continue to treat you right

 

Thank you so much for that post. It's very informative and makes me more confident that I can keep my car running longer. I'll have to wait for my tax returns come in to buy this stuff but I think it's necessary. The part a week thing sounds like a good idea but I think that will also have to wait until I get a steady job that can pay the bills too.

I'm envious of the yellow T-5R. I've wanted one and even thought about painting my red 850R but I don't know if that's taboo in the Volvo world haha so I didn't do it. :P

 

What Matty said +1

 

Don't paint it..... Just keep looking...

I first wanted one in 95 when I saw it in the window of Ramsey Volvo, I've lusted over them.

Then the chance to pick this one up came up, I couldnt pass it up... A HUGE Thank You to Robert RSPI for facilitating the deal..
Dreams do come true just hold out youll get one...

Plust keep your R nice and youll be able to own 2 rare cars

 

@matt, l slap myself in the face for letting you take that T5-R.lmao. how is it running?

 

No need to repaint your 850. Go to Walmart, get Meguiars paint restoration. It does wonders. It restored my paint to its original condition. buddy just have time for your Volvo and work on it yourself. It will make you appreciate owning an 850R. Volvos are fun to work on but can get annoying sometimes, but it you know what you are doing, trust me you will be happy you own one.. Trust me my landlord almost kicked me out because l was always working on my car. lmao

 

Dont know yet, It should be here Saturday morning.

It got delayed a week because the first driver wanted the car driven 10 miles to a Sam's club for pick up... The car had no plate on it so that wasn't possible.

I had to re schedule it, It was picked up yesterday morning

 

Man, there is NO WAY you can rip through that PCV in 2 or 3 hours your first time. I have to admit that I'm a real slow worker and the last one took me about 1-1/2 hours (non turbo). But the last one I did on a turbo car took me about 3-1/2 to 4 hours. I do take a lot of time cleaning parts up.

I don't think I would ever run 20W-50 in my 850 but heck, if you've done it more than 100,000 and still have good compression, more power to you.

Dude (Matt), when you get that yellow car and clean it up, you are not going to believe the deal you got on it. I'm stoked!

I seen a Silver T-5R for sale in S. Cal once. It was yellow and they didn't like the color so painted it silver. What a bone head.

 

My turbo needle has NEVER gone far right. It only goes about 2/3 of the way into the white. You may be overboosting.

As for what I think your problem is, if you're not overboosting and having fuel cut off, your turbo intake hose may be collasping. I'll try to find the video.

 

Here is the video: