Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

96 Volvo 850 Turbo Heater core replacement questions...

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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 04:11 PM
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Default 96 Volvo 850 Turbo Heater core replacement questions...

I'm going to replace my heater core on my volvo 850 because it STINKS of antifreeze when the heater is on and whenever I turn the heater on I'm greeted with a nice cloud of anti-freeze dust.

Anyways, I saw a video and read a few tutorials but my main concern was the amount of coolant that will leak from the coolant lines leading the the core. The video said that I should go to the ipd website and purchase heater hose clamps for ~$25, but as a poor college student ~$25 is a small fortune. I've also read a few guides that say that you can just stuff up the lines when you remove it and use some towels to catch the spillage before you're able to plug it up.

My question is, is there a specific managable amount that leaks (e.i. A cup) or will it just completely drain my coolant if I just let it sit? Whats the best way to plug it up? Anyone have any suggestions?

On a separate note, how audible should the turbo be in the cabin? Maybe I'm just being paranoid but I can sorta heat it working when the music is off and i'm crusing around in lower gears. Again, this is most likely just me being paranoid and it being the first time I ever even noticed the sound.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Some people disconnect the heater lines at the firewall and use a shop vac to suck the coolant out of the core. My guess is that you'll have about 16 oz in there.

As for the turbo sound, you should hear it a little but not much. Some people put a hole in the firewall so they can hear it louder.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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I just did this. I used a air blower with a bolt on the end taped up. Put it in the top hole. A lot came out. I would not pull the inside lines without trying to get something out.

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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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Both lines run to the bottom of the core so I don't think it matters which one you suck or blow out of.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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Put a new plastic kitchen trash bag under the core and lines inside the car. You can maneuver the bag for 100% capture. Once the bag is in place, remove the lines clamp and the core. It works every time!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Nice.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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wait, so how do i remove the coolant line? Do i just pull and tug them out of the firewalll?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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No, the plastic clips squeeze against the pipe then you pull the pipe out. Quick disconnect.
____________________________________
The correct way to remove them is to push them further into the firewall, rotate them just a bit to free the o-rings then pinch the tabs and carefully pull them out.
 

Last edited by rspi; Sep 15, 2012 at 04:08 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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Oh ok, so Just pull them out before doing the job. Will coolant spill from the pipes once I disconnect or am I pretty much good on that front? As far as the cabin goes I'm sure I can get a bucket or something to collect the coolant, Just want to make sure it doesn't completely drain my coolant when I disconnect the lines from the firewall.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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Leave the firewall lines intact unless you're planning to replace those lines. They can be a bear to disconnect. Catch the coolant in the cabin and put it back in the system when you're done.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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Pics Of Heater Core Install - FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior - Volvospeed Forums
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 03:32 AM
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I apologize in advance for being so thick, but just to clarify.

1. pull carpet

2. take off panels, torque screws, ect..

3. get bags, rags, and other receptacles to catch the antifreeze.

4. when you pull the heatercore from the lines, provided I DO NOT pull out any coolant lines, or use any clamps to pinch the lines, or anything else, how much fluid should I expect and is it safe to allow it to drain before continuing to replace the heatercore itself.

I'm in college and will have to do this on one of my days off. I can't afford to mess this up so I'm making 1000% sure that I'm getting all this right the first time so that I don't end up with something crazy like a busted head gasket.

Thank you so much for your patience as I'm sure most of you are already at your limit with this thread, heh.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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Do you have a way to blow or suck out the coolant (as discussed) from the engine compartment? If not then you are going to get everything that is in the heater core, lines to the firewall, lines on the other side of the firewall and everything inside the engine and radiator up to the level of the top point of the hoses that enter the firewall. Does that make sense? There is nothing to hold it back.

So, if you want to keep everything in the engine and radiator from spilling into the cabin you will need to crimp off the two hoses at the firewall in the engine compartment. You can do this with some hose clamps or needle-nose vise grips.

If you have the ability to suck or blow out the heater core before you open it...do it. Pinch off the lines, remove them from the firewall and do it. If you remove them from the firewall do not make the mistake of simply squeezing the tabs and pulling...you run the risk of breaking the seat or tabs. The correct way to remove them is to push them further into the firewall, rotate them just a bit to free the o-rings then pinch the tabs and carefully pull them out.

the only way for you to not get flooded in the cabin is to remove the contents. If you dont pinch off the lines outside expect to get really flooded.

...and yes, you only remove the single screw at the bottom of the heater core to free the lines...leave the line there.

After the heater core is replaced. Top off your reservoir then run the car till its operating temp. Continue to fill keeping the reservoir at max. Seal it up then drive it. It will continue to burp out the air taking from the reservoir. Get it home, let is cool, fill it again. Then drive it and be sure to check the level the next morning. Top off if needed.


...and I made a video for you. Keep in mind this is with the hoses pinched or diconnected.

 

Last edited by boxpin; Sep 12, 2012 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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Ok, so some people are telling me to just catch the coolant, some people are saying it'll drain everything and be a **** ton of coolant, some people are telling me that I need to use clamps.

I don't own clamps, I hardly own enough tools to do this job. Should I go to autozone and buy clamps or what? I'm getting ready to do this job on Sunday so I need to be sure I know what I'm doing and have everything needed. What I'm planning on doing is just undoing the heatercore, letting whatever spills from the core into a bucket or a towel or something, replacing everything, putting it back, then pouring the bucket back in the little coolant tank.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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Do you have a big bucket that you can drain the radiator into? You have got to do something so you dont drain everything in the block into the cab. If you drain the radiator you will eliminate that portion. Then the only fluid left will be whatever is in the heater core. You can try the bag trick or a few towels and just replace the loss with water. When your all done, pore the bucket back into the system and top off.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 04:05 AM
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There is not room inside the car for you to work and have a bucket around. The only chance to capture coolant inside is a trash bag. It will be a mess otherwise.

I never disconnect the lines at the firewall. I'm not sure if the clips are supposed to come out with the lines or stay in the adapter.

After your done with the work, fill the coolant system back up with coolant. Don't just put tap water in, if you're going to add water, use distilled water.
 

Last edited by rspi; Sep 15, 2012 at 04:12 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Bucket is for outside

Bag is for inside

He has no way to pinch off the heater lines in the engine compartment. If he doesnt pinch them off or drain the radiator he is going to get a flood in the car.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Ok guys, so I decided that I didn't want to deal with needing a bad or a bucket so I went out and got some of these pliers(?).

Guy at Autozone said that it would be sufficient to pinch off the lines i'm thinking of. Will these completely jack up the hoses if I use them to pinch off the lines, or will I be ok?

All I'm waiting for now is for my car to cool down so I can start working on it, I'm going to wait a few hours as it's like 90F out today and I drove my car for a bit. Maybe I'll just do it tomorrow morning.

http://imgur.com/mtGTz
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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If you can wait till morning, you'll be better off. The job should only take about 45 minutes. Also, even if you clamp the hoses, you will still get a lot of fluid inside the car, at least 8 oz.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Questionable on those vise grips completely pinching off the lines since they have a gap in them. Make sure you pinch away from the metal fittings so you dont tear the hose. I am thinking the best method for you is to pinch the outside lines and use the plastic bag inside approach. Once you get the fluid out its smooth sailing.
 
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