7mm allen wrench on the end of some vise grips did it for me on my S40, or go to sears and buy the correct Torx fitting.

 

It is not a solid rear axle. The 850 has a Delta-link IRS with adjustable toe. Volvo also lists a camber spec, which is not adjustable (but could indicate damage to the trailing arms or bushings).

If it is pulling, the front alignment is out.

 

Alrighty then, thank you so much guys.
Sounds like I need to take the car back to the alignment shop and pitch a b!tch.

 

Hold on. My car had a bad rear suspension. Something was wrong such that there was a lot of negative camber. Camber is not adjustable. Rather than try a whole bunch of things to no avail, I found a good rear suspension from a donor car and had my mechanic install it. After that, everything was back to normal. I had a front end pull, and my steering wheel was off-centre when driving straight. Once I replaced the rear the car tracked perfectly, steering wheel dead-on straight. If you have a pull, and the front alignment is good, the rear CAN be the culprit. If things are bent such that it's turning the back of the car slightly, you'll need something up front to compensate.

 

True enough, but he said that the car tracked straight until he had the tie rod and struts replaced.

 

You could also have a tire issue. If the tire's belts are starting to separate internally it will get slightly out of round and can create a pull all on it's own.

Just something else to look at !

 

The nice thing about having a chain shop (Firestone, Goodyear .....) is that for double the price you can get a lifetime alignment.
That way as you replace parts or nail potholes the size of a '68 Beatle (I'm in Minnesota and we grow 'um big up here !!) you can take it back and it's free.
I have a hard time with the roughly 180 dollar price but it's nice to know you wouldn't have to pay for it again.

 

You know, I thought better of saying that about not trusting chain shops after I said it. I have personally had mixed experiences with both chain and local shops.

It's tough to beat the convenient hours, and the lifetime alignment is nice. I think the important part is to find a good shop, hopefully one that doesn't turn over all the techs every three months.

 

The tires are Bridgestone Potenza G019 Grid's.
They are directional tires and I rotated them front to back, no change.
They have maybe 20,000 miles on them.

 

Exactly and thats what makes zero sense to me, the shop that did the work I trust, they have been working on my cars for years and we are on a first name basis.
They have 4 techs, the owner and co-owner are 2 of them, they have 3 bays, they dont drive BMW's or Cadillac's either.
They do not do alignments though, so I did take it to Goodyear for that.

And the steering wheel is straight while going straight.
I cant do anything until the weekend, but I am going to take it back to Goodyear and have them double check.

 

And yes Kiss, we have huge potholes here, so much so the wife bent a rim on the car.
It still holds air and is not out of balance and is still "true", but that rim is now on the rear axle and not the steer axle.
She bent it before this problem started.

 

I placed the belt according to diagram, but I cannot place it under the tensioner because it is too tight. I released the tensioner as far as it goes but still too tight. Is there a trick?

 

There are 2 belt routings, one for the original belt and one for the updated longer belt.
Make sure you have the correct belt and are using the correct routing.

 

I must have the original belt. Where can i find the correct routing? I dont see one in the car. The way i place it: cramshaft, up under tensioner, power steering, down to AC, up to alternator, down to cramshaft.

 

Part way down it shows both the old and new way to route the belts.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=2&t=38845