psaboic
i pulled apart the distributor and everything looked fine, rotor was in the right position. so i pulled the #1 plug again to check the spark, its actually a dull orange spark not a bright blue like i had originally remembered. i told the owner to get me a coil so we can confirm if its just a weak one.

 

Sounds like you may have found the culprit, or at least one of the culprits.

 

Was a new coil the cure ??

 

Hey guys, seen that this thread was still running so I thought I'd toss in my 2 cents. A motor actually needs 4 things to run; fuel, air, spark, and COMPRESSION. I would check compression before doing anything else.
http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...ssion_test.htm

If compression is low across the board, maybe it blew a head gasket or something. You could also try the oil in the cylinders trick. Pour about a 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder and crank the car for about 30 seconds to see if it builds enough compression to start.

 

that had crossed my mind because the previous owner mentioned a pop when it died but i dont have a compression gauge. im still waiting for the current owner to get me a known good coil, which i really think iis the issue. its not a priority right now since theyve been busy cutting corn for the last 2 weeks, im sure when the farm slows back down theyll give me a call.

 

ok guys ive got one for you..

1st off i still havent gotten the 96 started, its on the backburner.

i had a 94 850 in the shop yesterday that had an oil leak around the front cover and on the steering rack which i steamed off. when i pulled it out to the lot it started sputtering and died. spent 3 hrs trying to get it to start, unsuccessfully. fuel pump was coming on, fuel at the rail, good pressure when cranking. had spark, checked at coil and plugs. i sprayed it with ether and it didnt run up but it had spark??? sound familiar? it acted exactly like the 96, which i figured was a weak coil. so i tried a new coil, still didnt start.
well figuring it was something that i got wet, i just left it to dry. had the hood open in direct sunlight for 3 hrs today, battery on the charger. cranked it and it started first try!! runs fine.

so heres my question, what did i get wet that wouldnt have allowed it to start but still get fuel and spark? thats what i think is actually wrong with the 96.

 

I'm having a similar issue and came across this in my search. I'm curious....did you ever get the car running?

As for your question about moisture...

The #1 cylinder terminal is (I think) on the upper half of the distributor cap, as it's mounted. Theoretically, it's possible you could have a little bit of water get in there, and the droplets settle in the lower half of the cap. The cylinders that get their signal from the lower mounted wires could potentially not fire. You'd get a spark at #1, which you did, but maybe not on enough of the others to make it run.

It's just a thought.

 

i have a 95 volvo 850 turbo that turns off on me after it gets to temp.

replaced fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs & wires, fuel pump, distributor cap & rotor, fuel filter was replaced 1000 miles ago.
i have good presuure when car dies on me
i have fuel at the rail .
and my MAF sensor is working
I have no CEL or codes!

it will run until it gets to temp and then shut off try to start rigth away and it just cranks after a min or two of sitting i will get it on but only for a couple seconds or so then it dies again.
what could it be ?

 

Crank Position sensor!!! Had same problem and that's what it was on mine. Bosh on ebay about $45 new.

 

alright ill try that n see ive just spent so much money i want try to pin point something so im not just throwing money everywhere thanks for your help

 

Crank sensor is easy to check. Unplug it, and check it with an ohm meter. Should be between 200 and 400 ohms.

 

ook im now throwing a code of camshaft position sensor . im assuming that could be the problem ? ive read on a couple different thread that CPS could cause what im having