96 n/a glt ,123k
Hello, Car gives a slight but noticable bangish/clunk when accelerating from a coast and when letting off the gas (seems to be getting worse ie. louder). My reardrive truck had same issue, and it was the driveshaft u-joints.
I've searched threads for symptoms of a bad cv joint. My car,however isn't making any noise while turning (this seems to be the classic sign of a bad cv joint). Car is quiet over bumps,turning, braking and on uneven pavement and there is no vibration, shimy ,or pulling under any conditions. Car is smooth riding and responsive. Could cv joint be bad without making the noise while turning,and with no torn boots ?

 

I doubt it. How are your motor mounts? You have 4 of them to really watch. Firewall torque mount, upper torque mount arm, lower transmission mount, and front engine mount behind the passenger side tire.

 

Yeah, my car does a similar thing like you are describing, and it did it both before I replaced my CV joints and still does afterwards. I have been told by my mechanic that my engine mounts need replacing, but I'm not too worried about it.

When your CV joints go bad, you'll know it, trust me. Every turn is just CLICK CLICK CLICK...

 

I'll check the mounts this weekend (hopefully). Thanks for the insight.

 

So guys,
My CV joints IS CLICKING when I turn. Front passenger. Can you give me some informartion on what I'm getting into when I begin the repair? ANY advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you

 

Matt: other than the 2 bolts that hold the carrier bearing, its no different than any other drive shaft.

 

+1 with rspi. Failing CV joints don't produce the symptoms you describe. And failed motor mounts should be replaced.

 

I just did 2 passenger side CV axles today. You need a good quality 1/2" breaker bar or impac tool to get the 36mm bolt loose. You wll also need a long breaker bar unless you have a real young guy that can bounce on the good breaker bar like I had. Most people use a 4' x 1" pipe from the plumbing store (for the breaker bar). I actually broke 2 breaker bars (Duralast) and 1 Husky wrachet wrench trying to get axle bolts loose and finally purchased a Craftman 1/2" breaker bar to get the jobs done.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to check your other suspension parts like control arms, sway bar end links, brakes, etc. since you will be there anyway.

Here's how I did it:

TOOLS:
a. Jack
b. Jack stand.
c. 36mm 1/2" socket.
d. Good quality 1/2" breaker bar.
e. 4' breaker bar extension.
f. Lug nut wrench.
g. 13mm Box end wrench.
h. 17mm deep socket.
i. 12mm 3/8" socket.
j. Hammer or mallet.
k. Torque wrench that goes at least 120 FT LBS.
L. Degree torque meter or be good with math.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Remove the center wheel hub cap.
2. Break the axle bolt loose.
3. Jack the car and install a jack stand under it, then lower the car on the jack stand.
4. Remove the wheel.
5. Remove the axle bolt.
6. Remove the bolt that holds the ball joint in and pull the ball joint out.
7. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the carrier bearing in place.
8. Pivit the wheel assembly towards the back while tapping the axle out of the wheel.
9. Pull the outter CV away from the wheel.
10. Pull the shaft out of the tranny.
11. Replace the seal at the tranny.
12. Install new axle and reverse the order.
13. Torque the axle bolt to 120 FT LBS and then 60 degrees.

Have fun.

 

Just curious, why should engine mounts be replaced? I mean, I know the car vibrates a bit with bad engine mounts, and sometimes rocks back and forth, but if that doesn't bother me why should I replace them?

 

RPSI, Wow, what a great answer and thank you so much. I've ordered the axle new and will commence to put it in with confidence with the help of your message. I suppose I need to order a tranny seal no doubt eh?, which I didn't originally have on my list. Got a part number by chance so I dont mess that order up?

 

Bad motor mounts allow the motor to move A LOT farther from its design position than it's supposed to be able to. Think about all the parts that are connected to the engine and trans that are being moved farther than they're supposed to move. Electrical connectors and hoses come to mind.

Think what the extra motor movement is doing to your radiator, for instance. Rad hoses are stiff, but allow a small amount of movement. That's okay, they're designed to do that. But double or triple the amount of movement, and you're putting a lot more stress on some fairly delicate hardware that it was ever designed to handle.

Also, there are some places under the hood where only a LITTLE BIT more movement will cause a hard pinch point. Think of electrical wiring and vacuum hoses here.

A little motor movement is good. A lot is bad. And that doesn't even begin to deal with transmission movement and what it does to axle shaft seals and such.

I'm replacing a motor mount on my wife's Accord right now. It needs doing, Bro.

Hope this helps,

Lynn B.

 

+1 With Lynne

I had a motor mount go on my 95 Magna (Diamante) and when you hit 60mph the whole engine jumped around the engine bay with the vibrations. Felt like I was driving with square tyres!

 

I use to think that bad mounts would put undo stress on the tranny but likely more stress on the axles and other suspension part.

 

I found the "play" that caused the noise. All mounts were ok; other suspension components
ok. I did find miniscule play between axle splines and wheel hub. Thought splines must be worn but checked the axle nut for the heck of it. WOW! OMG! It was waaaay under torqued. Both L/R outer boots seemed to have been replaced as they are in very good condition, so I guess who ever did them blew the torque on R side (L side ok). I bought car
in March; wife drives it and I don't get timely updates on new noises, shakes, vibs etc.
Will be keeping extra eye on it.(no other problems so far, love it !). Thanks All

 

Glad to hear it was something so simple!

 

I used to just inpact them off and back on and thought I was good. Opps !!!
If you buy the "economy" hub assembly it's critical to torque it as that torque is what makes the bearing hold it's tolerances.
The more expensive bearings are machined differently and don't rely as much on the axle nuts torque to maintain their clearances. It's still a really good idea to always torque them to spec to get the best performance and life from them.
The other thing to remember if you're using an impact is that it's the transmission gears you're impacting against even if it's still on the ground as the rubber tire will give enough for the shaft to torque against the transmission. Unless you put the transmission in neutral it's best to use a pipe on a breaker bar to remove the difficult ones.


Good catch on yours !!

 

It stinks thinking about what would have eventually happened if I hadn't swapped cars with my wife but hey, the front suspension got a clean bill of health as did the cv's and the tranny got a much needed flush ! BTW, I also use a breaker bar (3/4) and pipe (8')

 

"TRANSMISSION SEAL job" (Passenger side)
Hey, speaking of changing put the CV joints and axles, what is the operation like when it comes to changing out the transmission seal? I will be there and wonder if it is a difficult task, Any comments? , information?, Advice?
Thank you,
Matt

 

It's not hard at all and replacing it is the smart way to go so you don't have a leak from the seal anytime soon and have to pull the axle all over again !! It should just pull out or pry out with a screwdriver. They go in the same way you'd replace the inner seal on a rotor with tapered bearings. It's a straight shoulder that you "walk" into place. You gently tap it in a bit at a time while moving around the circumference.

 

I have both sides of 1996, 850 apart for CV replacement BUT I hit a snag and need help. I cant break the ball joint out of the control arm, no matter what I try. The bolt is out, I tried to spread the ears slightly, a can of penetrating oil, countless strikes with heavy hammer, jack suspension and strike down on control arm but no help. Has anyone had this issue? I usually dont give up but I'm at a loss. Really could use some good advice. Thank you in advance.