.


JPN

 

I was finally able to clear the codes by doing it with the engine running. I also like the fact that you can feel the the car stalling.

If you have an old analog multimeter like these you don't need a LED.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-MultiMeter-B...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/1000-volt-ac-dc-...QQcmdZViewItem
You can probably get them at Walmart for 5 bucks. It has to be analog so you can count how many times the needle moves.

You don't need a switch either, you can simply cross the cables with your fingers.

Anyways, these codes reappear immediately:
4-1-1 TPS sensor outside signal range
1-4-1 this code is not on the lists I have. I have verified this reading three times.

My car has a Motronic 4.3 ECU.

Any ideas?

 

1-4-1 ABS socket (A3) Faulty pedal sensor, shorted to ground or supply. That's what I have for the 1-4-1 code. Did you plug the TPS back in if you had had it out during the PCV job, if you did then you might try taking it back out and cleaning the contacts. I'm wondering if the TPS isn't giving you both codes. I take it they won't clear?

 

Wallie, that's what I was looking at right now in the manual. I am going downstairs right now to check if the TPS connector is not connected (duh).

JPN, thanks for the manual.

 

Fixed! The TPS cable was unplugged. I cleared all the codes are goodbye CEL and YAOD.

I took the car out to the highway and really floored it. It accelerated very very well but would cut out close to 5500 rpms. I think there is a leak in the intake. If I accelerate I can see the intercooler pipe collapsing. Maybe it runs out of air to ignite all the fuel the injectors are spraying. I will check for a stored DTC, but this YAOD issue is definitely closed!!!!!

Thanks everybody, except Volvo that doesn't make a car that will run perfectly with disconnected sensors

 

It was great to see my wife's face when I told her that I had finished the PCV, got rid of the YAOD and cleared the CEL that had been bugging her for so long. Ten minutes before that she had started making wise cracks about going to Volvo to get ripped off... again. I guess that's how divorces start. Those jokes are definitely not funny but she had to swallow her words. Talk about motivation to clear a CEL.[8D]

 

Congrats on the easy fix! Glad it wasn't anything that required any $$$$$ to fix

 

Glad you resolved that, nothing worse than a persistent problem you can't pin down. You should get a manual if you don't have one, there was a pretty good one in PDF form floating around the web sites for a while. Matthewsvolvosite.com had it pinned for a while, not sure if they still do.

I didn't quite understand how you were accelerating and were able to see the intercooler hose collapse? I take it you weren't on the road at the time you saw the hose collapse? When's the last time you changed the spark plugs and did other stage zero maintenance, you shouldn't be cutting out at 5500 rpms.

 

I opened the hood, and operated the throttle manually. I was trying to listen for leaks and I saw the intercooler hose collapsing if I floored the throttle.

The spark plugs were changed 3 weeks ago, and checked twice during the last 2 weeks. The air filter is ok, and the spark plug wires and distributor cap/rotor are less than a year old. The oil is changed regularly too with Semisynth 10W40.

The small vacuum hose that is connected to the nipple on fresh air intake hose close to the air box is popping out if I rev the car really strong. Is that hose supposed to be held on with a clip like the ones used on the other side of the hose, or is that a sign that there is a vacuum/boost problem?

 

That hose should be connected to the underside of the fresh air hose at one end and the BCS center port at the other end and secure on both ends, that might be why you're cutting out at 5500 rpms. Are you using copper spark plugs, just curious...I use plain old Champion copper # rc7yc and find that they work real good in the 850 turbo cars. I still don't think the intercooler hose should be collapsing under load, is it original?

 

Yes I am using Bosch copper plugs now. I removed the Iridium IX's. The hose is original. I will take the hose to a parts store and see if I can get a rigid hose, but I doubt it since the hose is not straight.

 

I bought a clamp to fasten that hose on the nipple. The darn thing is popping off when I floor the car.

 

Take it out and give it a test drive now and see if it still cuts out

 

If the intercooler hose is collapsing then it is bad(weak) I see that all the time.
That will make it cut out like it is.

 

I put a tiny clamp on the short vacuum line that goes to the fresh air pipe close to the air box. Now it does not pop off any more. I will have to change the intercooler hoses if I want the car to breath better. The lambda light turned on last night when I was driving home. I have not pulled the codes yet.

The car is still smoking a bit, even in idle. I guess I should have changed the PCV parts instead of partially cleaning them. I did not take off the intake manifold and I did not clean the oil separator or the EGR port. But the important part is that oil is not being sprayed from the oil filler cap any more!

 

The new codes are
4-1-4 Turbo pressure too high
2-3-2 Long term fuel mixture too weak or too rich at idle

My exhaust fumes smell too rich. That's probably the 232. Regarding the turbo pressure, the circuit is nice and tight now. Maybe a previous owner adjusted the wastegate. How do I check that?

 

If the hose is collapsing that could make the Boost to high and I believe the 232 as well.
Also make sure the small vaccum line coming off the induction hose by the Mass Flow sensor is tigh and not leaking. That will throw both codes as well.
Or the Boost control valve is bad.

 

Thanks, I guess I´ll just go ahead and replace all those tiny hoses. The other day one of them cracked open when I was manipulating it. Those tiny clamps seem way too sharp. Won´t they cut the hose when it gets old?

I´ll have to see where I can get an intercooler hose here. There´s no way I´ll go to the stealer. The other day I called to get a price on a pair of front rotors and they wanted to charge me U$ 400. There is a local equivalent here that costs $60 per rotor.

 

Do you mean the short one that goes to the nipple on the fresh air hose?

 

YesI guess that would be the one. The hose from the air box to the turbo.
There is so many different names for that hose.
That small hose is one for the ones for the Boost controller.