Hey everyone, I haven't posted in a while. But about a week ago i started up my car and i heard a loud popping noise then smoke coming from behind my radio. I know it was a short somewhere, not the radio though. Then I realized my air stopped blowing. I've been searching and found out that it's the blower motor and resisot. But my question is that, do i need to replace the blower motorand resistor? Or is it the wires going to the blower motorthat need replacing?

 

^Very unlikely that the wires are bad.

Also very unlikely that both the motor and resistor is bad.

However, it's kind of hard to get at the motor/resistor to test...And if you were to take the stuff out to test, you might as well swap it..

 

Hi yert315 and RedTurbo850,

Yert315 does your car have Manual Climate Control? It's also
possible that something overheated in the climate control unit.
I don't recall any cases of burned wires to the blower motor
or associated components. Tech would probably know about
this.
In general if the blower motor bearings go bad the blower motor
can draw excessive current and destroy the blower motor resistor
on the Manual Climate Control units. The blower motor is actually
not hard to remove if you need to check it. You have to remove
the glove compartment liner, the kick panel and knee bolster on
the passenger side. There are a lot of wires that appear to be
connected to the blower motor housing, but actually only 1 plug
goes to the motor, the housing provides a support point for the
rest of the wires. If you do take it out be sure you remember
where everything goes. If I remember correctly there are 4 screws
that hold the blower in.
If you decide to check the blower you can inspect the wires in the
area at the same time, there's a lot of room to look at things.
You can test the blower by taking it out and connecting it to 12
volts d.c. Be careful it will jump a little when it starts and be sure
you don't get tangled in the squirrel cage, it turns pretty fast. Also
you will get a pretty good spark when you connect the power so
be aware of that and make sure you are not close to gas fumes
or the car battery (hydrogen gas) when the spark occurs. Also
be sure you don't short the car battery, you don't want an explosion
or fire.
When you turn the squirrel cage by hand it should feel reasonably
smooth and easy to turn. If it is binding or squeeking the bearings
are going. Sometimes you can oil the bearings and continue to use
it if it frees up,but if it's really bad it's better to replace it.
If the motor is ok, then you may have a bad blower resistor or
Blower Speed Selector switch if you have Manual Climate Control.
It looks like something drew too much current so if the motor is
good you may have a short in the wiring that damaged one of
those components (or the wiring itself).
If you have Electronic Climate Control someone else will have
to give you some help.
By the way have you checked all your fuses?

Sorry for the long rambling post, I'm in a hurry this morning and
have to get out of here.

Good luck, John

 

If you have ECC the module might have burned up.

Does any of the lights on the module light up?

 

I do have electronic climate control. The lights next to "REC" and "AC" do not light up anymore, they used to. But most of my dash lights around my AC and shifter have been out since I bought it. And all of my fuses look fine.

 

If those lights don't light up the ECC module is burned up.

 

Does the ECC control the complete air system? Or just the auto setting.

 

It controls everything.

Try to find a used one.
A new one I believe is like $600.00 or so.

 

ok thanks. Also, is it difficult to replace? i would think that all I have to do is remove the complete ac dash system above the radio, and replace it. But how does it come out?

 

If you slide the radio out and push on the module from behind it will pop right out.

I tried to look up the part # for you but there was about 10 different #'s.
It changed many times.

Look at the part # on your and look for one to match.

 

I hope you can find a used one. However, in the ultimate case, well, DIY[8D].

Loud popping sound within an electronic component usually indicates electrolytic capacitor/condenser explosion (though this should be accompanied by offensive odor[8D]). Take the screws off, open the aluminium casing and feast on it with soldering tools[8D].

John, what would you think? Is the ECC within the capability of home mechanics to repair? It it were mine, I would love to take it apart and torture it[8D]if I couldn't find a replacement ECC. Or, I wonder if there is another fuse within the ECC.

Also, to take the radio out, push on the narrow tabs on both sides of the radio with a coin, etc... The tabs should pop out, as they're spring-loaded.

Good luck,


JPN

 

JPN: I have much experience taking out my radio. I have an after market Alpine in there right now, installed myself. But I dont think I have the courage to start tinkering with my car parts and trying them out. haha

Tech: Thanks alot for your help. I will take a look at it tomorrow. Hopefully a junk yard will have one for cheap.

 

Keep us updated.

 

Hi Kanji, yert315 and tech,

I have never seen an ECC unit. I trust tech's advice and knowledge.
If you have smoke and a popping sound usually there will be some
major damage, if an electrolytic failed that dramatically it probably
took out other components, board traces, or maybe a connector
also.

Tech I hope you're feeling better and Kanji you're doing an excellent
job .

Best regards, John

 

Hi Yert315,

No offense, I apologise, as I don't know people's expertise, except for a few of them. I believe my info was redundant, as you possess sufficient knowledge & skills to T/S.

Hi John,

I see, it is not a simple replacement of the capacitor. Yes, finding a used unit would be the easiest, but if it were me and could not find a used unit, I would go to the "torture" route[8D].

BTW, congrats on your BEEP BEEP!


JPN

 

That is just a blind guess because I've never seen one of the units and
I don't know what commonly fails on them. Many types of modern
resistors decrease in value when they overheat so this just accelerates
the failure. The old carbon composition resistors (the ones prized by
tube audio and guitar amp enthusiasts) increase in value when they
overheat so they tend to limit current and damage. Carbon composition
resistors are considered obsolete and are unlikely to be used in this
module.
Like you I would take it out and try to fix it anyway.But I try to fix
everything even when it doesn't make good sense. For someone
that just wants to get their car going I think tech had good advice.

By the way the car photos you posted were really funny!

Best wishes, John

 

ok so I finally got around to taking out my unit. I know for sure that is what went because it smells burnt. I am trying to find the part #, but I cannot tell which it is. There is a long sticker with the number 9144254 W320K on it, then there is a number engraved on the metel which is 4970. Which one of these numbers is the part #? And where would I search to find it? Does it have to be the exact part number for it to work?

 

9144254 is the part number

 

ok thanks. I've beenlooking around for the part but cannot find it anywhere with the same number.Would this one be sufficient? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...98533&rd=1. Its cheap.
Or would any other ECC that looks exactly like mine work?

 

Blower motor:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdet...&code=7836

Resistor for ECC models:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdet...&code=7672

These parts are for my car, an 96 854 Turbo with ECC.