Which brand spring compressor?
#1
Which brand spring compressor?
Hey Volvonians!
I plan to replace the struts and other parts of the front suspension on my new to me 96 Volvo 854.
New struts are in order.
In the past I worked on Mercedes and US vehicles and learned a lot about spring compressors.
An MB spring will break an import spring compressor, which is not a pretty sight. That's why most MB mechanics use Klann spring compressors, which have a particular design.
I saw various DIYs on strut replacement and they have no recommendations on spring compressors, so I'm turning to the Volvo community.
Are there any to get? Any to avoid? Also: any special Volvo tools required?
Same with struts: I have heard Sachs and Bilstein (but not heavy-duty ones: why not?) as well as Koni for adjustable struts.
What about accessory packages with bolts, etc.? I'm expecting to change all bolts, given the stress they get from the suspension.
If I'm wrong on this, please set me right!
Thanks!
I plan to replace the struts and other parts of the front suspension on my new to me 96 Volvo 854.
New struts are in order.
In the past I worked on Mercedes and US vehicles and learned a lot about spring compressors.
An MB spring will break an import spring compressor, which is not a pretty sight. That's why most MB mechanics use Klann spring compressors, which have a particular design.
I saw various DIYs on strut replacement and they have no recommendations on spring compressors, so I'm turning to the Volvo community.
Are there any to get? Any to avoid? Also: any special Volvo tools required?
Same with struts: I have heard Sachs and Bilstein (but not heavy-duty ones: why not?) as well as Koni for adjustable struts.
What about accessory packages with bolts, etc.? I'm expecting to change all bolts, given the stress they get from the suspension.
If I'm wrong on this, please set me right!
Thanks!
Last edited by strelnik; 07-14-2016 at 11:06 AM.
#2
You can find the "death stick" compressors at Harbor Freight, Autozone (which also rents), Sears etc. I've used them multiple times on 850 struts (and a few others). I have an air gun which helps speed the compressing. The only issue I've had is with my 2000 S40, which has very long springs where I had to use two sets to grab enough coils. 850s are fairly straight forward. Make sure you use OEM or HD spring seats or you will get a fail like the one in my pic. The 850s have a standard top nut (22mm?) to hold the bearing but also have a "cross nut" that holds the spring seat. the top nut should come with the new strut and you may want to buy a new cross nut. Make sure you check the torque spec for both (hard to use a torque wrench on the cross nut without a special tool)
Last edited by mt6127; 07-14-2016 at 05:51 PM.
#3
Attachment 13234You can find the "death stick" compressors at Harbor Freight, Autozone (which also rents), Sears etc. I've used them multiple times on 850 struts (and a few others). I have an air gun which helps speed the compressing. The only issue I've had is with my 2000 S40, which has very long springs where I had to use two sets to grab enough coils. 850s are fairly straight forward. Make sure you use OEM or HD spring seats or you will get a fail like the one in my pic. The 850s have a standard top nut (22mm?) to hold the bearing but also have a "cross nut" that holds the spring seat. the top nut should come with the new strut and you may want to buy a new cross nut. Make sure you check the torque spec for both (hard to use a torque wrench on the cross nut without a special tool)
Thanks for the info, is there a special socket or trick to the socket for the cross nut?
Tools are always a good investment and many can be sold if you sell a car that needs special ones.
I plan to drive Volvos forever, so I'm investing in GOOD tools.
#4
I usually remove the cross nut by tapping a flat blade with a hammer to spin it off. When reassembling you are supposed to tighten to 52 ft/lbs - which is where the Volvo special tool comes in handy. I fashioned my own tool using a short piece of cast iron pipe and cut notches to grab the wings and then grab the pipe with a vise grip to hand tighten. Having a factory tool would let you use a torque wrench to be precise. Google "autozone 24365" - they carry the tool for $30. I actually think there's a better chance of you over tightening than leaving too loose since the sequence of parts is dust boot/bump stop, spring seat, cross nut, strut bearing, bearing washer (the big metal piece you see up top) and then the top nut. Just remember the cross nut goes round=down/cross=up.
Last edited by mt6127; 07-14-2016 at 09:47 PM.
#5
i am also using the HF spring compressor of death with good results. I bought a cross nut tool on a whim but I was brought up on an appalachian farm, and I have no problem at working without it. It is nice for torquing. I don't have a calibrated hammer.
The jounce bumpers will be in terrible shape, so go ahead and get new ones. The top strut mounts make a lot of noise when they fail, and based on recommendations here, I have been buying the heavy-duty IPD ones. There is the danger on these that you could install one that isn't going to last as long as the one you're removing, if the old one is still good.
Bolts at the bottom are torque to yield and are supposed to be replaced. The mail order guys carry them if you don't want to go to the dealer.
The jounce bumpers will be in terrible shape, so go ahead and get new ones. The top strut mounts make a lot of noise when they fail, and based on recommendations here, I have been buying the heavy-duty IPD ones. There is the danger on these that you could install one that isn't going to last as long as the one you're removing, if the old one is still good.
Bolts at the bottom are torque to yield and are supposed to be replaced. The mail order guys carry them if you don't want to go to the dealer.
Last edited by firebirdparts; 07-15-2016 at 10:14 AM.
#6
I usually remove the cross nut by tapping a flat blade with a hammer to spin it off. When reassembling you are supposed to tighten to 52 ft/lbs - which is where the Volvo special tool comes in handy. I fashioned my own tool using a short piece of cast iron pipe and cut notches to grab the wings and then grab the pipe with a vise grip to hand tighten. Having a factory tool would let you use a torque wrench to be precise. Google "autozone 24365" - they carry the tool for $30. I actually think there's a better chance of you over tightening than leaving too loose since the sequence of parts is dust boot/bump stop, spring seat, cross nut, strut bearing, bearing washer (the big metal piece you see up top) and then the top nut. Just remember the cross nut goes round=down/cross=up.
MT 6126:
Thanks for the info on the special tool, I notice it des not include an application for the 850, just later models:
Applications Include- Volvo C70 19992004, Volvo S40 20002004, Volvo S60 20012004, Volvo S70 NonTurbo 19992000, Volvo S70 Turbo 19992000, Volvo S70 AWD Turbo 19992000, Volvo S80 19992004, Volvo S80 V8 20072008, Volvo S80 Turbo 19992006, Volvo V40 20002004, Volvo V70 19992007, Volvo XC90 20032010.
I hate to spend money for a useless tool, can anyone confirm that it will work on 93-97 850 models?
Also, note for webmaster:
I have to log in three times usually before the system lets me in. Can you check why? Thanks. It's PITA to comment on the forum when you have to do this two or three times in a day.
#7
Webmaster??? :-) - Which browser are you using? Since you can get in (albeit after some failed attempts) you know its not your account, so the likely cause is your browser configuration or time out issues for some web part and java script routine not completing or being blocked. I'm using Chrome v51.0 with Adblock Plus with Java scripts enabled. Best to post a description of your issue/ browser config to the User Issues board on the forum.
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