break in period for new rotors/pads
I put mine on, take it easy for maybe 30 miles and then drive like normal and I have never had a problem. Especially when I have new rotors too. I kind of drive up and down the street pressing lightly on the brake pedal while accelerating to help set things. Not sure if that is good or not, but I have always done it that way.
Sometimes I just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, I done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
Sometimes I just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, I done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
I put mine on, take it easy for maybe 30 miles and then drive like normal and I have never had a problem. Especially when I have new rotors too. I kind of drive up and down the street pressing lightly on the brake pedal while accelerating to help set things. Not sure if that is good or not, but I have always done it that way.
Sometimes I just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, I done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
Sometimes I just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, I done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
.
I think the whole 500 miles for break in period is an "Old Wives tale"... I would say drive carefully 20-30 miles for everything to "seat" in, but you should be ok after that. Once you put new brake pads and calipers, the first 20-30 miles you drive, you imediately "score" both so contact and stopping should be immediate...
Meyle rotors. already have something on them,no need to clean first is what he told me. he works at one the best VW shops in town and used to work for the best Volvo shop in town.
Last edited by Bruce Wayne; Sep 2, 2009 at 08:04 PM.
I've always been told to ensure you "Bed them in" as the saying goes. After installing them take them to a little used side street. Go up to 30mph and hit the brakes and work your way up to 60mph. After that your golden as far as I'm concerned. Its not like a motor where you have to worry about seals and whatnot. Just ensure any surface anything is off the pads and rotors.
i put mine on, take it easy for maybe 30 miles and then drive like normal and i have never had a problem. Especially when i have new rotors too. I kind of drive up and down the street pressing lightly on the brake pedal while accelerating to help set things. Not sure if that is good or not, but i have always done it that way.
Sometimes i just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, i done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
Sometimes i just change them and let the wife take the car. If she doesn't end up in the creek across the street, i done good. I know she does not give them any break in period.
new pads and rotors installed and working good. had a little excitement while I was doing it. the house behind us (1/3 mile away) had the field behind it catch on fire. three fire trucks and a couple of other emergency rigs showsed up. had it contained in less than an hour. thanks for the help on the pads and rotors.
Modern brake pads do not need an elaborate break- in period like old pads used to. Pads used to come to the factory with uncured binding agents, and needed to be carefully heated up with use in order to cure properly. Modern pads are baked in controlled ovens to cure everything. The only break- in they need is a few easy slow- downs to help them seat properly and wear to the rotor. Of course, the wear to the rotor part takes a hundred miles or so... you just have to know you're going to need to apply a bit more pressure.
More important, when doing a brake job... CLEAN THE NEW ROTORS with brake cleaner, unless they're one of the new "coated" rotors (they'll have a paint- like silver coating. Zimmermann coat Z rotors are an example.) New rotors are coated with a sticky, anti- corrosion oil, and if you don't clean it, it will smoke like crazy, and can contaminate the pads.
More important, when doing a brake job... CLEAN THE NEW ROTORS with brake cleaner, unless they're one of the new "coated" rotors (they'll have a paint- like silver coating. Zimmermann coat Z rotors are an example.) New rotors are coated with a sticky, anti- corrosion oil, and if you don't clean it, it will smoke like crazy, and can contaminate the pads.
Modern brake pads do not need an elaborate break- in period like old pads used to. Pads used to come to the factory with uncured binding agents, and needed to be carefully heated up with use in order to cure properly. Modern pads are baked in controlled ovens to cure everything. The only break- in they need is a few easy slow- downs to help them seat properly and wear to the rotor. Of course, the wear to the rotor part takes a hundred miles or so... you just have to know you're going to need to apply a bit more pressure.
More important, when doing a brake job... CLEAN THE NEW ROTORS with brake cleaner, unless they're one of the new "coated" rotors (they'll have a paint- like silver coating. Zimmermann coat Z rotors are an example.) New rotors are coated with a sticky, anti- corrosion oil, and if you don't clean it, it will smoke like crazy, and can contaminate the pads.
More important, when doing a brake job... CLEAN THE NEW ROTORS with brake cleaner, unless they're one of the new "coated" rotors (they'll have a paint- like silver coating. Zimmermann coat Z rotors are an example.) New rotors are coated with a sticky, anti- corrosion oil, and if you don't clean it, it will smoke like crazy, and can contaminate the pads.
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