I did a search for this problem here and found this:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...=battery+cable

His symptoms are the exact same as mine, but It does not do it once the car is running properly.

I am also have a starter drag problem. I does it every once in a while, and I get out and yank on the positive cable a bit and it goes away for little while. So this week end Im gonna take the battery out, clean all cables and put a new battery in (neg cable can turn and is as tight as I can get it.) My questions are;

I know where the pos cables go (ecu, ignition and start of course), but where do the 2 neg blue cables go? (one to starter I think and the other to the body I think)


Can a lose or corroided cable cause the stalling problem? (My ICM is still clicking very loud, I did take it off and clean it, but it still stalling after startup.)

finally, I want to check the pos connection to the starter, do I have to take the fan assembly apart to get at the starter?

Thanks in advance

 

hi guys! im new here and i have this problem with my 96' 850 sedan. recently the engine stalls particularly after i have driven it already and the engine temp reaches above 50 degrees. it doesnt have any problems starting at low temperature readings(30 degrees) but once it reaches 50 and u turn off the engine and try to start it again, it wont start at all, and makes a choking vibrating motion even if u press on the accelerator pedal to help start it.i also noticed that at about 50 degrees engine temp it also stalls even while driving.ive already checked the cables and replaced the batteries. can u guys help me trouble shoot?
thanks

 

This could be a few different things. The three that come to mind is the MAF, Fuel Pump Relay, or Crank Position Sensor.

To check the fuel pump relay, remove it from the socket and take a piece of wire to cross the connection. If the car starts fine, then it is the relay.

To test the MAF, unplug it and then start the car. If the car starts and drives better, it is the MAF sensor.

To check and see if it is the CPS, just see if you have spark will trying to start the car. You can do this by connecting a test light up and see if it lights up when you are trying to start the car. If it does not light up, it is the CPS.

Do these test and let us know the outcome.

 

Ok, just where do I put the test light to?

 

Just a quick note: if it is the MAF or the CPS,,,would I not get codes? I have and OBII Reader and its clear. Im pretty sure the Fuel pump relay would not give a code if it was weak.

just curious

 

OK, after a little talk with a friend of a friend (who is a Mech) says he knows what the problem is. He says its an air bubble in my system and when this air bubble rises to the temp sensor, the car will stall as a saftly thing. Know this makes sense as I changed my antifreeze and two new hoses before my long trip. This only started during my trip. So my question is:

Does he make any sense? does this happen when you get a large enough air bubble in our rad system?

Can you bleed this out or do I have to wait till I do my PCV system and he says he can get rid of it when we have access to the temp sensor and bleed it from there.

Thanks in advance

 

I found what seems to be a crack in my reserve tank cap. could this be letting air into my system?