Hello all. I appreciate the many post I have read in this thread. Would the procedure be the same for 05 XC7 turbo0 as it is for the V70 described in the thread? Thanks in advance.

 

Well on yours you can move the cooling fan and unbolt the compressor and turn it. I put a board between the compressor and radiator to protect it.

 

I thought the AC Clutch is all or none event. Either it works or does not work.

Please clarify for me: I thought when the gap is too big, the compressor is not engaged ---> no AC at all.
Once it is fixed ---> good AC.

My question is: when the gap gets larger slowly over the years, can the "output" of the compressor decrease, i.e., less cold air?

 

For those who wants to do it the proper way as tech says (WITHOUT removing the compressor from the car):

Volvo AC Pump Shim

 

It is not all or nothing. When the clutch heats up the magnet cannot hold the clutch anymore due to the large gap.

 

Thanks tech!

So the AC Clutch can slip as you said?
If so, then I imagine after a period of slipping, it will destroy the mating surfaces? Like a manual trans clutch? No?

 

Yes that is why if it keeps going out it needs to be reshimmed before it wipes out to much material.

 

I am having A/C issues with my 98 V70 T5 - tried pushing the clutch in towards the compressor and it didn't engage.
Last year I had the mechanics die/blacklight test it for leaks, they said it wasn't leaking?
Any suggestions??

 

Hi Dan, don't know how much searching you have done on hear but almost everything is covered if you keep searching. I had same problem, removed compressor relay and crossed terminals with paper clip, compressor started. Couldn't figure it out after that, tried different (used) relay and high pressure switch and still wouldn't work. Took it to Volvo dealer, explained that a/c will work if I cross relay terminals. Don't know what they did besides replace relay but they got it working. Cost $110, $25 for the relay and some diagnostic charge. Now it works all the time. I suggest start with removing the relay and crossing the terminals to see if the compressor will start. If it does not, search for other solutions on here. The relay has 5 pins. 3 one way and 2 another way. It is the 2 that you cross.

 

Hello All, my 1st time posting here.

The clutch on my S70 seized up. I've got a used one and would like to replace only the clutch, since the one on the car worked fine and also I'd rather not purge the freon.

So far, using the three threated holes I've gotten off the 1st plate, but now I don't know how to get the rest off?? Should I use a puller like this one...(plz see below). Also there is a pin inside the shaft...I have no idea if that needs to come out before or after?

Thanks agian for your help

 

The pulley needs to come off next. Then you can remove the magnet last.
Sometimes you need a puller other times you can lightly tap it off.

 

Is this a problem on the S40 2.5T (2006) as well.

Symptoms seem the same. Here is what I have done so far

1. Evacuated the system
2. Recharged the system
3. 2 weeks later the system still has a good charge
4. Last night took off wheel and fender liner to observe clutch. Could not duplicate problem after 30 min.
5. No visible leaks
6. Called Volvo in NJ and they never heard of a shim kit

Its my wifes car and I am not in it when the A/C cuts out. My questions are.

1. It looks like I could pull the clutch without disconnecting the compressor? Can anybody confirm this?
2. Does anybody know the size of the shims (so I can order from McMasterCarr?
3. What is the depth of the clutch (what should the spacing be)?

Thanks in advance for the help

 

So, if the AC clutch does NOT turn while motor is running it needs to be rebuilt/shimmed? What if the motor is NOT running & the AC clutch won't turn either? Really don't think sticking a broom handle down there w/the motor running is something i'd do...

 

Yes common issue. Yes you can do it without taking the compressor off. You can do it without even taking the belt off. The gap should be about 15 thousands. When you take it apart there should be 2 shims in there. There should be a thick and thin one. Usually if you remove the thick one and put it back together that will put it close to specs.

 

With the car running and A/C on check for power at the wire to the compressor.If you have power and it is not turning then it might need a reshim.

 

EDIT: I'm a moron. Didn't realize this thread was this long... Gonna give it a go.

 

I recently tried the bread clip fix but was worried because the compressor wasn't cycling- just spinning ice cold non stop- in my experience won't that eat the pulley bearings- I took them out and am letting the ac do it's thing for now. Does anybody know what it should do at idle ( 15sec on 10 off) - the bread clips slipped under my shims puts the clutch face where it should be ( w/ a feeler gauge) but my clutch stays spinning. I am in south fl and considered the wrath of god heat to be a factor but it was in the shade of a garage bay. As much as I would love the ice cold any time of the day I don't want to replace the compressor right now - any suggestions?

 

I also tried the shimming the existing shims with welding wire (tip from turbobricks for a more permanent clutch fix with no glue) but that to led to clutch not disengaging while ac is on

 

I also have the same exact problem. I have a 1997 Volvo 960 and a 2005 volvo s 80. Can both the 2005 and 1997 units be reshimmed?

 

Do you have to evacuate the system before taking the compressor apart if you leave it on the vehicle and lines attached?