hey guys l need your help with choosing the right oil brand. castrol GTX oil or mobil 1. which one is the better.

 

Your opening up a can of worms here, LOL but in my opinion neither, Amsoil is my choice. See there test results.

 

Castrol Edge or Edge with Titanium ? What about tossing in Valvoline and Royal Purple too ?? If we are going to fight, sorry discuss, personal preferences lets make it good !!
What about the auto parts stores private label synthetics ?? You can really get a deal on them when they have a 5Qt and filter sale.

I have Quaker State Synthetic and Valvoline Synthetic in the garage due to it being on sale. I also have some Mobil one I scored for under a buck when Checker Auto Parts bit the dust.
I think there is a difference in the performance of the oils but as far as me and my engines are concerned I buy what's on sale and change it regularly. No body's thrown a rod or spun a bearing yet, including the Madza.

Once you find out how many people recommend which brand, what weight do you think you should buy

Just in case you don't get enough answers you have the option of going to the oil forum. It's everything you always wanted to know and more than you'll ever understand including lab results.
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™

 

Heck, I think just about all oils today exceed what the Volvo engineers expected 17 years ago. Buy the right weight and keep it changed often and you'll be fine.

You can start a poll and see what people are using. I prefer Castrol but don't have it now because I got a better deal on Mobil 1. I do use full synthetic.

 

I put a poll here: https://volvoforums.com/forum/genera...you-use-59853/

 

Why use oil 80w90 works best!!!












Haha just kidding!

 

jbuck was correct when he stated "Your opening up a can of worms here..." a year or so ago I researched motor oils to find which was the best. I am now convinced that I know little more than when I started. I had used synthetic oil, and high mileage oil of various brands. My 850 GLT has over 230,000+ miles on it.
My car burns oil but not much. I check the oil 500 miles after an oil change to check for burn off of the additives in the oil. One day I was too lazy to change the oil myself and noticed that Wal-Mart had a Quaker State 10-W30 oil change 'special' for only $26. I had it done on my car and drove for 2,000 miles before I had to add a quart, and the oil was not as darkened as any of the previous oils I had used !
I believe the best advice I read on the web was to try different oils, check each oil after 500 miles, then stay with the oil brand that burns the least amount and stays retains its honey color the longest.

 

And I missed the original question,,,,,, Castrol GTX isn't synthetic.

 

I originally thought the same thing. If my motor isn't wearing, my oil should stay clear and clean. But I read somewhere a few months ago that good detergents will help clean the oil and the oil should look dirty when it's drained, if not, it's not doing it's job cleaning the motor.

I really don't know which is true but I do stick with my statement about newer oils being good enough to do the job that the car needs. So, keep it changed with any brand and you should be fine. Use synthetic and you may be better off.

 

Since the can is opened...here is my suggestion.....

Likely ure car needs 4.5 or 5 quarts...

So mix:
1 qt. Amsoil
1.qt Mobil one
1 qt.Castrol Edge
1 qt High mileage Castrol
Rest add ure own personal preference..
......LOL!!

How elase can u make everyone happy.

WARNING: Your engine may be unhappy, or not agree with the advice given above...IF acted upon !!

 

No please don't mix the oils as suggested in humor[or humour], and sue me!

My son normally takes the used oil out of the engine ...say after 2k or 3k to an analysis facility which can give u details of metals, and non metallic elements found in that and suggest you the right choice. I kind of like that too settle the issue for ever...for a particular engine of particular age. I also feel oil pressure is very important issue in the engine wear. A min of 1.5 bar or about 22/23 psi is necessary for older engines of 1990-2000. I see typically 1.5 bar on idle[1.0 min], and 5 bar on load or high speed[load of air resistance].

Some times *he goes nuts...in some auto issues..like trying to get a million miles out of a 1984 BMW engine...even if its door don't lock properly, and half a dozen rattles are heard on a bumpy road.

*[My son works for Honda, in OHIO, is a ME. He participated in designing a formula one and competed in 2008 race in Detroit, on behalf of Uy of MD, and sponsorship from SAE].

 

What he said.

Every engine will have a little blow by from the rings and those combustion by products need to be captured by the oil.

 

But why two servings of Castrol instead of a Valvoline or Royal Purple ??
Sounds like someone works for Castrol, I'm just saying .........

 

Wallyworld not only uses Quaker State oil, they also use Fram filters... worst oil filters ever.

 

guys l never knew fram was the worst filter ever.l had it on my volvo and l cant imagine how my engine cried for months till l switched for a new mann oil filter.now l guess its smiling.loll

 

rspi, You make a good point ! I too, believe the detergents in new oils will cause the oil to darken as they clean the engine. But I also believe that an engine that is burning oil will also cause the oil to become dark. The problem we then encounter is to determine which process is occuring when we examine the oil. This dilemna was solved for me seven years ago when I was trying to prepare a 1988 Chevy celebrity (with 88,000 miles) for inspection. The oil was dark and smoke came out of the tailpipe. I feared that the cause was due to rings or valves . A friend came by and said he was familair with that car and said there was probably too much carbon build-up in the engine. At his direction, we proceeded to perform an "engine flush" to clean out the engine. We poured in 4 quarts of new oil and one quart of deisel. We ran the engine at idle for 4 to 5 minutes then drained the oil completetly. The oil came out totally black with small chunks of crud. When we refilled the engine with new oil the engine no longer smoked at all.
Today I no longer use diesel, I simply buy a quart of Motor Flush from Advance Auto parts. I believe it is essentially diesel with some additives. Since I have performed the engine flush on my 95 Volvo GLT the oil remains honey colored a lot longer.
I truly dreaded that first time we performed the motor flush! I feared it would ruin the engine. Now that I've seen the results, I do this on every car I own. Of course they are all high mileage cars.

 

Its not the worst filter ever. Every product has varying degrees of quality. Fram is not junk but not a superior filter. They are priced for the average consumer to change their oil cheaply. If they were junk they would be pulled from the shelves.

 

I thought Fram was good. They use to have that commercial that said "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later". They have 3 levels of filters, extra guard, tough guard and extended guard. I have used the tough guard in the past.

http://fram.com/products/oil_filters/product_list

 

Ok about the engine flush heres what we do at the dealer I work at! We add 1 quart of trans fluid to the engine and drive it and get it warm then perform an oil change. Transmission fluid has detergents in it, they clean the passages and surfaces. I did mine when I first bought it @ 157k it now has 163k on it. When I changed the oil it was still amber and not dark. I use a factory oil filter. I run 10w30 synthetic blend. My $0.02

 

@ Clean850R: Did or do you have lifter problems? Did you do any oil changes before you did the tranny fluid cleaning? Was the oil dark after your 2nd or 3rd change before you did the tranny treatment? Does it matter what kind of tranny fluid you use for the treatment? Do you add the tranny fluid before you change the oil (like when the oil change is due or do you add the tranny fluid to new fresh oil then change it again like a double change)?