CEL Help (Ignition Misfires. O2 Sensor Response, and an EVAP Leak)
#21
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Vacuum and fuel pressure are good. Slight Yank-test of the electrical connections? Battery terminal?
I am having a similar misfire problem myself. Started it twice this morning and it sounded not good -- like a vacuum line was pulled out. I didn't have time to check it out. Will do later on... I do have a slow response O2 sensor myself, which hasn't thrown a code yet. In my case, I suspect an electrical problem, since the engine bay got sprayed with antifreeze and hot oil... LOL
I am having a similar misfire problem myself. Started it twice this morning and it sounded not good -- like a vacuum line was pulled out. I didn't have time to check it out. Will do later on... I do have a slow response O2 sensor myself, which hasn't thrown a code yet. In my case, I suspect an electrical problem, since the engine bay got sprayed with antifreeze and hot oil... LOL
Since the codes that show up give specific cylinder(s), usually 3 and sometimes 5, could it be an injector or compression issue?
Like I have mentioned before, when I brought it to my mechanic he saw nothing wrong and that the car runs great. He's clueless as to where this "misfire" is coming from.
What should be done next?
#22
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Well, my misfire ended up being the PCV line (from Oil Separator to PTC); it was disconnected before the PTC. In other words I was venting into the atmosphere (explains the stink), and was sucking unmetered air into the intake. Plus something else too (related). Its fixed temporarily for tonight, in the dark, parked on a major Avenue. Tomorrow I will get a hose and clamps and fix it.
On your case: it's very rare for several injectors to fail simultaneously. Same for compression. Sure you can do a compression test. They should be above 150 with no big variances between each-other.
I would go back to the vacuum test -- click on the website link on my previous post and check with the Vacuum Gauge which "Scenario" is yours. Some vacuum leaks are not easy to find. Start simple....
On your case: it's very rare for several injectors to fail simultaneously. Same for compression. Sure you can do a compression test. They should be above 150 with no big variances between each-other.
I would go back to the vacuum test -- click on the website link on my previous post and check with the Vacuum Gauge which "Scenario" is yours. Some vacuum leaks are not easy to find. Start simple....
#23
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Well, my misfire ended up being the PCV line (from Oil Separator to PTC); it was disconnected before the PTC. In other words I was venting into the atmosphere (explains the stink), and was sucking unmetered air into the intake. Plus something else too (related). Its fixed temporarily for tonight, in the dark, parked on a major Avenue. Tomorrow I will get a hose and clamps and fix it.
On your case: it's very rare for several injectors to fail simultaneously. Same for compression. Sure you can do a compression test. They should be above 150 with no big variances between each-other.
I would go back to the vacuum test -- click on the website link on my previous post and check with the Vacuum Gauge which "Scenario" is yours. Some vacuum leaks are not easy to find. Start simple....
On your case: it's very rare for several injectors to fail simultaneously. Same for compression. Sure you can do a compression test. They should be above 150 with no big variances between each-other.
I would go back to the vacuum test -- click on the website link on my previous post and check with the Vacuum Gauge which "Scenario" is yours. Some vacuum leaks are not easy to find. Start simple....
![Confused](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I may test the compression if it gets to that point. I talked to someone else and they also said that the injectors failing is a possibility, but very rare.
#24
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Stink as in oil? There's a strong smell of something while standing outside my car and when driving with the windows down, but I never took the time to acually smell what it could be. I'll check it out in the morning. Maybe I have the same problem as you
but I checked everything, making sure it's hooked up. When you started your car up, did you hear a grogging noise and did it go away?
I may test the compression if it gets to that point. I talked to someone else and they also said that the injectors failing is a possibility, but very rare.
![Confused](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I may test the compression if it gets to that point. I talked to someone else and they also said that the injectors failing is a possibility, but very rare.
I don't know what you mean by "grogging". It may be the lifters, which is normal for our cars on start-up. Yes, it goes away. Take a video and post it on Youtube...
#25
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Yes - stunk as burnt oil. Took it around the block, much less smell. Since I had oil sprayed all-over from the busted cooler lines, I thought that the smell was oil being cooked on exhaust, engine, etc.
I don't know what you mean by "grogging". It may be the lifters, which is normal for our cars on start-up. Yes, it goes away. Take a video and post it on Youtube...
I don't know what you mean by "grogging". It may be the lifters, which is normal for our cars on start-up. Yes, it goes away. Take a video and post it on Youtube...
I'll hook up the vacuum tester tomorrow morning and check it again using the link you provided.
#26
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#31
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Originally Posted by Henry10
People here and VS report problems with Platinums or other "upgraded" plugs. So I would (and do) Bosch or Champion copper ones work well.
Re-gapping got rid of some misfire for me.
Re-gapping got rid of some misfire for me.
![Confused](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
When I went to get a new gapping tool, I ended up buying new plugs. They're NGK V-Power. The gap was about .033" out of the box, so I had to decrease the gaps on all five plugs.
I reset the codes, so we'll have to wait and see if any pop up. I should know by the end of tomorrow after class.
Originally Posted by tech
What brand is the tune up parts that were installed?
Cheaper brand ones can cause issues.
Cheaper brand ones can cause issues.
#33
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I ended up buying new plugs. They're NGK V-Power. The gap was about .033" out of the box, so I had to decrease the gaps on all five plugs.
I reset the codes, so we'll have to wait and see if any pop up. I should know by the end of tomorrow after class.
I started with OEM Volvo plugs, but just put the NGK V-Power ones in today. NGK plug wires, Bosch cap and rotor, and an MSD coil.
I reset the codes, so we'll have to wait and see if any pop up. I should know by the end of tomorrow after class.
I started with OEM Volvo plugs, but just put the NGK V-Power ones in today. NGK plug wires, Bosch cap and rotor, and an MSD coil.
On the spark-plugs: You can also get Bosch or Champion (copper) at any local store. Don't get too fancy. Copper works well. Volvo RWD guys do not like V-Powers.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...gs-ones-47367/
#34
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I did fix my PCV lines today and some other vacuum lines. Car is back to normal, well not exactly -- Flex pipe just got busted yesterday. I am trying to nurse it while I am doing some work on the V90.
Maybe I will give the flex a try with a temp fix -- although they never work for more than 5 miles... Although taking it out did not seem too complicated, but I could be wrong...
Now that I writing this -- I think I have flex somewhere in my parts bin. It's a lot longer -- we'll see.
Maybe I will give the flex a try with a temp fix -- although they never work for more than 5 miles... Although taking it out did not seem too complicated, but I could be wrong...
Now that I writing this -- I think I have flex somewhere in my parts bin. It's a lot longer -- we'll see.
#36
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Originally Posted by tech
On the cap and rotor is it the bottom of the line one or the high line one?
Did the cap have the black cover on it with the cylinder numbers on it?
Did the cap have the black cover on it with the cylinder numbers on it?
Originally Posted by Henry10
Like Tech said -- go over the Distr cap again. It's not impossible to screw it up. Check also that wires are seated well.
On the spark-plugs: You can also get Bosch or Champion (copper) at any local store. Don't get too fancy. Copper works well. Volvo RWD guys do not like V-Powers.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-8...gs-ones-47367/
On the spark-plugs: You can also get Bosch or Champion (copper) at any local store. Don't get too fancy. Copper works well. Volvo RWD guys do not like V-Powers.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-8...gs-ones-47367/
I originally went to Walmart for plugs and a gapping tool, but they only had Autolite. I started out with Autolite when diagnosing this misfire. They did nothing. I went to Pep Boys and all those stores (Pep Boys, VIP, AAP, Autozone, and Napa) keep their plugs behind the counter; all they had was NGK.
What's wrong with the V-Powers? Just wondering.
#37
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Some people think that V-groove or U-groove is just hype. Like some other cars, Volvos want what they want, and while V-grooves may be the sweet-spot for other cars, our Volvos like Bosch and Autolite Double-platinum.
I am not sure where you are with Stages (0, 1, etc). If you are around Stage 0 -- bring your car to spec, then later start to move up the food chain.
I am not sure where you are with Stages (0, 1, etc). If you are around Stage 0 -- bring your car to spec, then later start to move up the food chain.
#38
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some people think that V-groove or U-groove is just hype. Like some other cars, Volvos want what they want, and while V-grooves may be the sweet-spot for other cars, our Volvos like Bosch and Autolite Double-platinum.
I am not sure where you are with Stages (0, 1, etc). If you are around Stage 0 -- bring your car to spec, then later start to move up the food chain.
I am not sure where you are with Stages (0, 1, etc). If you are around Stage 0 -- bring your car to spec, then later start to move up the food chain.
#40