1995 850 Turbo Wagon.

I don't know how long this problem has been in existance since its my wife's car and when I asked her specific questions she admits that she starts the car with her foot on the accelerator, so she's giving it enough gas not to stall. And immediately zooms up the driveway without letting the engine warm up... but that's another repair waiting to happen

When I start the car properly without touching the pedal, it stalls immediately because the rpms are very low, under the 500 rpm hash mark (I would say 400 rpm). It is winter, so colder than average cold start. However, once the car heats up after driving it half a mile or so, I can re-start and the idle speed is high enough not to stall. Still rough, though. I can prevent cold start stalling by giving it 800-1000 rpm's worth of gas pedal, but I have to leave my foot on the gas when I shift into drive, which is not good practice. Automatic transmission.

I've searched a bit and not found this particular problem, but other idle control related posts indicate that there are several things which I might try cleaning, but I don't know how to recognize them when looking under the hood -

the IAC (Idle Air Controller) -- is this the same as the "idle control valve?"

the throttle plate butterfly and surrounding area as well as the idle control motor

Posts also indicate that idle problems are often due to a vacuum leak, but I don't hear anything obvious.

 

Clean the throttle body and idle motor.
They are both under the black cover hiding the throttle cable and the wheel.
The idle motor is a cylinder looking thing.

 

Hello again,

In addition to Tech's help, give it a good tune up as well, unless it had one recently. Also, is the CEL on? It may be due to a faulty TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) or loose/dirty connection to it.

This is the best advice I can give you at the moment, as I just drove from Chicago to Vermont.

Good night,


JPN

 

My new 850 does this as well.

In short, it does not do a 'cold idle', which should be ~1500rpm or +, to warm up, and then come down to whatever a regular idle is.

I will try to find the throttle body and idle motor as per Tech's tip. (heh, Tech Tip). =)

I will also continue tosearch and see what else I find.

*edit*

Didn't find anything great so far. Is there an idle control valve? Anything else?

 

Hi Phoenix,

850 Turbo has very little duration for cold idle. Even in freezing weather, the idle speed stays only about a few seconds at about 1,500 RPM, and then immediately moves back to normal 850 plus/minus RPM.


JPN

 

Great! Though yeah, it pegs to 1500 for a second or two, right after the vrooom, and then it bounces between 600-900 and fights it out, but I won't let it and just help it idle higher... Should I just let it struggle to survive and say it's normal? Lastly, what is the best approach for cleaning the two things mentioned to clean! Will save off those pics now...

(Though why are you always deleting the pics? Limited space on VF.com? Maybe I should just host them!)

 

Hi Phoenix,

To go about cleaning the 2 components, remove them and clean with brake cleaner, carburetor cleaneror other cleaning agent. If you don't have a Haynes manual, I recommend that you get one. Although it is not very thorough, at least it covers the basics.

The reason why I delete the pics is because those manuals are a courtesy of Volvo. So, technically I am not supposed to spread them and I respect copy rights (even though I may be violating it[8D]). But they are actually available to public, in case if you want to know the URL, please PM me and I'll give you the URL.

Also, I would visit AutoZone and have codes pulled.


JPN

 

I will get a haynes manual soon. Any reason why we would not post the URL publicly? I am going to do leather treatment and pull codes at lunch today! I love having a new car/project I can work on... at work (well, on lunch breaks and 'smoking' breaks). =)

 

Hello again,

There isn't a reason why the URL cannot be put on public, I was just afraid of hundreds of 850 owners accessing the web site and shutting down the server.

Their manuals are not complete and are missing some vital info, but 80% of the time they are more than sufficient. With Haynes manual, you can fix 90% of the problems I believe.


JPN

 

You can take that URL down JPN, I will zip it up and host it on my server shortly (tonight or so).

 

Will do, thanks,


JPN

 

Another cold start this morning, it didn't shoot to 1500 this morning on first start, it went to about 1k like a normal start, then goes down into the 600 or so range, really starts to bog/shake car, and I can't let it die so I just hold it at 1500 for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, and then after that my normal 1k idle is okay and the car is fine (idling wise). Leaving for lunch at work, it did shoot to ~1400rpm and then down to a ~1k idle, no problems. It's more than 80 degress outside at present so the car felt 'warm'. =)

Will try to get to those items Tech pointed me to. Welcome back Tech! Much appreciated. You too JPN. Will try to post link to that manual soon!

 

Cold start this morning was fine. Shot to ~1400rpm, then down to 1100...1000, 0900... and fine idle, never dipped/sagged into questionable zone...

Was in the 70s this morning.

 

Still having the problem, was below 70 this morning...

Also got a TPS code before. I do not have a Haynes yet, some one want to post the images again? I do have the entire manual that JPN listed available for download, it's just that I did not find the right section that covers this. Basically I want to clean my TPS and re-install it.

 

I would also check for ECT sensor. After the car has been driven for over a half hour, shut it down, remove the ignition key and disconnect the ECT sensor connector. Hook up a digital multimeter to the sensor and the Ω(resistance) reading should increase as the coolant temp drops. If this does not happen, the ECT sensor is likely to be shot.

Cleaning TPS sensor wouldn't do much good. It is nothing but mere potentiometer and all you can do to it is to clean the sensor connector with electrical contact cleaner.

Give us the OBD-II reading result so we can help you better.

If none of the testing reveals problems, I would go back to the simple basics-tune up items.


JPN

 

?

 

The codes are
Getting A1 - 114 and 213
and A2 - 411

This means
114 - Program selector open circuit or short circuit to supply
213 - Throttle position (TPS) signal too high

411 - TP sensor signal

I got these ONCE, also got the flashing up arrow and CEL... (already replaced the PNP by the way)... I think it's the solenoids, but I'd love to get my hands on a used known good TPS and TCM, why not... When I shake the TCM (remove it, shake it), I hear a faint rattle. Is this normal? Solder broken off? might be normal... No parts cars near by (I'm in the Phila PA area). Anyone want to swap parts so I can test? =D

 

Try replacing the TPS.

 

TPS replaced. Will post 100% if issue comes back, otherwise it's fixed (if I go a good while/weather hits 50 degree (65 low at the moment) and do not have problems I will post that too!)

 

I do not believe you should hear anything rattling from the TCM when you shake it. I would try a known good TCM if you can find one.

Sorry that the problem is persisting.


JPN