I would like to find some "touch-up" paint for my 93 GLT and was wondering if there is a specific paint code hidden somewhere on the car or in the VIN. I tried some VIN decoders but there are always the "car specific" areas. The color is a med-dark green. I can post an "OK" pic but not sure that it is accurate enough (kind of has a blue hue). There are several number plates in the engine compartment, including the one on the left fender which shows the car production # and several other mystery numbers.

Any help would be apreciated!

Thanks!

Rodney

BTW Volvo sad[X(] will be happy again next week when my top end gasket kit arrives. I'm putting a new head (ported polished) and other misc mods in it. Ohh drop springs too! I also love my little diplomatic service sticker (the blue one) in the rear quarter window!



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The paint color code is a 3 digit code located on the plate under the hood.The interior code is a 4 digit number like 3960.

Let us know how it runs when you get it done.

How did the porting go?

I thought about trying it on a set of heads for my mustang but not exactly sure how to go about it.I have never done it before.

 

Thanks Tech,

It actually wasn't too difficult. You just have to use a gentle touch (just let the weight of the dremel do the work for you) and a smooth side to side with a de-buring bit. The aluminum cuts very smoothy. If you are using iron heads you may have to use a carbide bit but it only took a couple hours (with breaks) to do the 5 intake ports. I'm trying to decide if I want to do the exhaust ports, as they are pretty smooth anyway (that and my wrist is killing me LOL). If you do decide to it yourself be sure you are at a place where you can sit and have the head at table height. I did the first 2 ports standing and just about killed myself! Ohh Yeah, LOTS of light! Its hard to see in there from certain angles.

Again thanks and I'll get some pics of the head before I put it on

Rodney

 

Thanks for the tips.I might give it a shot.
Im still deciding if I want to or not.It is an old set of cast iron heads.I would do atleast the intake ports to match my ported intake.Maybe the exhaust to get ready for headers.

I can't wait to see pics.

 

Did you swirl them and put steps in the ports??

 

In furtherance to my earlier posting.................there is more to porting a head than simply "hogging" out the ports. Are the chambers in volumetric balance with each other?? If not, after you have re-jetted your carbs or injectors, there is going to be burned valves when one cylinder is lean and the others are 'right'. On that issue............it does not do much to just open the ports without compensating with the carburetion............you have not gained a thing except perhaps a costly mistake! Re: simply 'hogging' out the ports................the fuel must be atomized properly. To accomplish that, you have to incorporate steps and swirls in the valve area other wise the fuel simply 'pours' in. Head work is time consuming and costly. You can "CC" the heads your self with home made equiptment but to swirl cut and etc. by using hand held tools is impossible! Over the years I have given up performing this work myself and send the heads out to a specialty shop. Your average machine shop cannot perform this work............don't get caught up with a promise from them. After the valve work is performed, you have to then change the factory cam.............its overlap and duration is not compatible with performance and the new head configuration. Of course that leads to stellite valves, titanium keepers, and double wound valve springs..............and it goes on.................