Common 850 stall
Hello fellow volvoforum fans,
I bought a 94 850 Turbo wagon a year ago and have replaced almost everything: timing kit, water pump, ECT sensor, radiator, turbo, O2 sensors, cat and muffler, knock sensors, CMP sensor, cleaned the EGR and throttle body, replaced all vacuum lines, wheel hubs, brakes/rotors, axles, oil trap, purge valve. FCP Groton has a lot of my money. Luckily I can pull the codes myself - that self diagnostic system is amazing.
Anyway, the car began stalling out on me just like others have posted before. (By the way I have learned all that I know from this site, I love volvoforums.) So, when it began stalling out on me it would do it after I had made a few short trips with the car and it is common for it to die when I'm not giving it gas after I've turned right. The only code I was pulling was a 315 EVAP code, so I checked the purge valve and it was bad. I also learned that if you just disconnect the valve the car will not start. So, I replaced the valve and I have no codes but the car will still die. Also, if you cover the out port of the charcoal canister the car will die. I am not pulling a 222 main fuel system relay code nor am I pulling a 343 fuel pump relay code.
My questions are:
Can a relay be faulty without setting offa code?
Can a fuel pump gradually go out as opposed to just quitting all at once?
Could it just be a bad battery connection? (I hate how all of those wires connect at the battery)
Could it possibly be anything other than the fuel pump, relay, or battery cable???
Wes
Volvo driver for life
I bought a 94 850 Turbo wagon a year ago and have replaced almost everything: timing kit, water pump, ECT sensor, radiator, turbo, O2 sensors, cat and muffler, knock sensors, CMP sensor, cleaned the EGR and throttle body, replaced all vacuum lines, wheel hubs, brakes/rotors, axles, oil trap, purge valve. FCP Groton has a lot of my money. Luckily I can pull the codes myself - that self diagnostic system is amazing.
Anyway, the car began stalling out on me just like others have posted before. (By the way I have learned all that I know from this site, I love volvoforums.) So, when it began stalling out on me it would do it after I had made a few short trips with the car and it is common for it to die when I'm not giving it gas after I've turned right. The only code I was pulling was a 315 EVAP code, so I checked the purge valve and it was bad. I also learned that if you just disconnect the valve the car will not start. So, I replaced the valve and I have no codes but the car will still die. Also, if you cover the out port of the charcoal canister the car will die. I am not pulling a 222 main fuel system relay code nor am I pulling a 343 fuel pump relay code.
My questions are:
Can a relay be faulty without setting offa code?
Can a fuel pump gradually go out as opposed to just quitting all at once?
Could it just be a bad battery connection? (I hate how all of those wires connect at the battery)
Could it possibly be anything other than the fuel pump, relay, or battery cable???
Wes
Volvo driver for life
I'm pretty sure relays can go bad w/o setting off a code. When I was researching, I never saw a mention of a relay code, or anyone w/ a CEL when they had a bad relay. If you do that soldering technique, it's only a couple bucks to fix..
Can a fuel pump gradually die? Yes. I don't know if you've heard about the tapping technique, but if you tap the fuel tank, you can sometimes jar the pump and the car will start. After a while, the technique may no longer work. For my car, my car sat for about 3 days and it suddenly started again. Then the pump went bad and I changed it out.
Could it be a bad battery connection? It's possible, but most likely no. If you had a bad battery connection, i'd think you'd get some other symptoms such as your other electronics going out.
Could it be anything else? I would check the fuel pump/relay but...If you haven't had the fuel filter changed recently, do that first.. It might work, but even if it doesn't, it's not bad to change it (if its been a long time).
Can a fuel pump gradually die? Yes. I don't know if you've heard about the tapping technique, but if you tap the fuel tank, you can sometimes jar the pump and the car will start. After a while, the technique may no longer work. For my car, my car sat for about 3 days and it suddenly started again. Then the pump went bad and I changed it out.
Could it be a bad battery connection? It's possible, but most likely no. If you had a bad battery connection, i'd think you'd get some other symptoms such as your other electronics going out.
Could it be anything else? I would check the fuel pump/relay but...If you haven't had the fuel filter changed recently, do that first.. It might work, but even if it doesn't, it's not bad to change it (if its been a long time).
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