Hey all,
I just purchased a 96 850 turbo with 114k on it. The car was in really nice condition. Only problem; there is oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil, after running it for a couple minutes when I took the oil cap of the valve cover I could see coolant on the cap. the guy that sold me the car thought it was either the head gasket or the oil cooler (he was used to VW, and said that would be typical on VWs). have any of you heard of oil coolers going bad on theses?

Assuming it is the head gasket, I'm fimiliar with replacing head gasketts on 240s and 740s just haven't gotten into the 850's as much, I know the require a couple special tools. What special tools do I need and would it save me money to buy the tools and fix it myself as apposed to spending 1600 at a shop.

Thanks,
Daniel

 

Im not a tech but I do have a little experience with oil coolers in VWs (unfortunately, fixing up that POS now to buy another Volvo). The 850 to my knowledge doesnt have anything like the VW oil cooler. Quickest way to determine it's the HG would either be a compression test or one of those exhaust sniffer tests at Napa (around $50).

 

Dan wait for tech. But I myself would be leaning on a new headgasket, or at least some BLUE DEVIL coolant system sealer...stuff is expensive but it works...

GL

 

I've seen 960s with blown head gaskets and there were two things which leaned me thinking in that direction. The car doesn't blow white smoke except for a couple minutes when I test drove it down the block, after it was warmed the smoke was gone. But you could smell coolant in the cabin.

 

If the coolant level in the reservoir is dropping, then it is probably the HG. If not, then it is probably the radiator (oil cooler). +1 for having compression tested.

Any white/blue smoke out the tail pipe?


JPN

 

I would do the compression test and also do the block test. Both of those will tell you which one it is.

One other way is to for Temp only to remove the oil cooling lines from the radiator and join them together. Then change the oil and start the car. If it is the radiator and cooler coolant will come out of the oil cooler connections on the radiator. But if the oil turns milky again it will be the HG.

 

Really good advice!

 

My coolant level is dropping SLOWLY and by that I mean less than 3-4 mm on the tank in 600 miles of driving. Should I still have my HG tested? Would a slightly busted HG leak like that? There isn't any bubbles or oil in the coolant the the oil looks fine after 2000 miles of driving, not milky at all except for one day when it was driven when really cold out, but I think that was moisture/condensation.

I've looked for leaks but can't find any green coolant coming out anywhere. It's driving me nuts.

 

Do you get a funny smell when you turn the heat on?
I wonder if the heater core is going.

 

No just the smell of mildew. I looked and the floor isn't wet or anything. Would a HG leak that low even show up in a test? I just want to rule out the HG but don't want to do it if it's a waste of money.

Oh also I've been exchanging emails with the Aisin-Warner rebuild shop that (I think) Volvo uses to get reman'd trannys. A customer service guy is looking into my specific issue (dropping out of gear when stopping). Hopefully they can shed some light on our trannys!

 

You can get the block test kit of have a shop do the test.

I hope they come up with something about the tranny that would be awesome.

 

OK so pretty much if the HG is leaking, even a bit, it should show up? It might be worth the piece of mind.

Also I'm taking the car down to a local rebuild place, they claim they can put it on a scanner and see if the the gear dropping is commanded or uncommanded by the computer, among other things. Should help narrow things down. Mine hasn't done it in awhile, then I flushed with Castrol ATF, it started doing it again! Ugh, went back to wal-mart supertech Dex III and so far so good, but it's a lot colder here than it is down there (I'm jealous).

 

LOL on the cold but it is going to be in the high 20's here tonight with the windchill.
Hopefully they see something.

If it is even a slight leak it should show up.

 

ok So I've done a compression check and the cylinders all showed 147psi +/- 3.

What is a Block test and how do you perform one?
I looked high and low for details on performing one and couldn't really find any information on that.
I found a "Block tester" but does this picture look right?


Thanks

 

Yes that is it. You add a fluid inside the tester there and run the car. Squeeze theball with it attached to the tool. If the fluid changes color from blue to Green or Yellow the headgasket is bad.

 

Before I got a test something else I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. I read the instructions that came with the tester but the confused the heck out of me!
Should I replace my milky coolant before I perform the test?
Should the car be warmed up for the test results to be valid?
where do I hook the tube up to the car?
and do I hook the tube up while it's running?

Thanks for your help!

 

I wouldn't replace the coolant it will only get milky again. But make sure the level is somewhat low.
You really don't need to warm it up the test detects exhaust gasses in the coolant system.

You stick the tube into the coolant bottle. But make sure the coolant is low enough that it doesn't get in there.

Yes you start the car and let it idle then insert the tube into the hole where you took the cap off of. Press it a little to get it to seal then you can use the squeeze pump and pump it a few times and see if it changes colors.

 

Well the fluid turned very slightly green (algae green) so I guess that means the head gasket is bad... what Volvo special tools will I need for that? I have a torque wrench and such...

 

There is a few you should have but it can be done with out them.
Also look at this post it might help you.
https://volvoforums.com/m_98892/tm.htm

 

After reading the description on http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/tech_headgasket.html it sounds like I'll be fine with out the special tools.

Can I install the valve cover and cams without the cam alignment tool or would that damage something?