I am a mechanic by trade,but have very little volvo experience.I am going to replace my t-belt,waterpump and seals this weekend and need to have an idea what tools I should bring home.I have a very complete set at home ,but what odd tools do I need?Also my genysis scan tool won't do anything but pull obd2 codes ,so I am looking at some software and cable on ebay that will allow me to diag my car with my laptop.Anybody used this?It's only about 100$ and I could use it at work also.So thanks in advance,Dan.btw this is a 96 850t5 wagon

 

Just standard metric tools, but you will need a 30MM or 1 3/16" socket to fit on the nut on the crank pulley to crank it around and line it up. Also, Torx for the Spark plug cover and timing cover. Not sure on your car but check out what you will need to release the tension on the serpentine belt also.

Also if you are not replacing the tensioner then you need a shop vice that opens at least 7" to re/compress the original tensioner.

Hate to point people off this forum for info but check out Bay 13.

 

The serp belt tensioner is a 3/4 drive but most won't fit in there. If you have a master serp belt kit it might have a setup that will work. The rest is pretty much cake.

 

The 30 MM socket is the only special tool I needed when I chnaged ours about two years ago. As merntioned, Bay 13 has a good write up on the procedure. I would suggest doing the idler pulley and tensioner while you are in there. Additionally you might want to do the serpentine belt system as well. Just my .02

 

Thanks guys for the advice.It looks like a gravy job to me,but it never hurts to ask.I ordered the fcp kit with everything.After this I am going to do the pcv system from fcp.This has been a great resource.I just finished the odometer gear replacement about 1 hr ago.If I can be of any help with other makes just let me know.Dan

 

What makes do you normally work on?(Cars)

 

The only thing I can add is that if you intend to change thetensioner roller on the timing belt you will need to get creative. There is insufficient clearance to get a torx bit on a ratchet into the slot on the head of the bolt. I did mine by wrapping a wrench around the hex shaft on the torx bit and I then used the German torque method - Gutandtight.

Please also note that there has been a rash of bad INA tensioner rollers of late (I have had 2). When you torque them down the casting binds on the front of the block and the tensioner roller will not move. The shoulder on the shaft to the block is about 0.015 to 0.020 shorter than the original.

If you have such a problem you can either replace the bolt that goes through the casting assembly with the original on the new roller or just replace the roller and its bearing on the original casting and its bolt.

I hope that makes sense - my mother in law has been here all evening and after that punishment I can no longer put together a coherent thought.

...Lee

 

I used to be a master chrysler/jeep tech ,but I quit the dealer 4 yrs ago and have been a retail tech for carmax for 4yrs now.So, like yesterday I had a dash out of a 05 town and country and also put lower control arm bushings in a bmw.I do alot of driveability for our shop,but whatever pays the bills,I do.Thanks for the tip on the idler.I just received my parts from fcp yesterday and will know about the idler later today.Dan

 

Sounds good nice to mix it up some aint it?

 

Yes it is.I was getting bored with the dealer.I have been in chrysler since 91 and was foreman at the last one for 6 yrs.I definately get a wide range of experience at cmx.4 yrs ago you could not have given me a vw or volvo,but thats what is in my driveway now.I do still have my rambler american with a late model jeep 4.0 project,so I do still have 1 domestic.Jeep/chrysler/dodge questions I can definately help with and others just ask.Dan

 

I will keep that in mind thanks!!!