Cruise Control Blues... Does not work...
#1
Cruise Control Blues... Does not work...
Ok, my cruise stopped working a few weeks ago and I did a quick check of the vacuum lines and what I seen looks good. So tonight I decide to get my Mitchell manual and start trouble shooting and there is a few things I don't understand. I actually think the manual is wrong so here's what I have checked so far.
The manual says to jump the OBD-I port B2 and enter it into some kind of test mode which I do not understand. If that jump has a code it's 1-2-2.
Anyway, I have pulled the column and back probed the switch and the on/off switch appears to work.
Then it says to check the brake pedal switch and with the car ON and the cruise switch ON, make sure the brake switch has power going IN but not OUT. Well, when I check it, power goes through the switch. Then, when I push on the pedal it breaks the power. So I think it's working properly but they (Mitchell manual) has it wrong (backwards).
So, on to more test. It tells me how to test the switch on the end of the stalk to make sure the + (engauge/accelerate) and - (engauge/decellerate) buttons work. During that test it tells me to pull the control relay under the fuse box cover and test 4T for power when I hit the + button and check 8T for power when I hit the - button. On both test I do get power, which is believe is PROPER/CORRECT operation. However, the Mitchell manual says that I should "replace the cruise control selector switch" if I DO get power when doing that. Then it goes on to instruct me to check the wiring between the switch harness and terminal if I DON'T get power.
So far I think everything is working properly with the switches and relay. Now, I do have the jump wire in the B2 hole in the OBD-I port while doing all of these test. Not sure if that is totally proper.
Please let me know what you guys think. The vacuum lines under the dash look good as well. I pulled the battery box and looked at the vacuum lines there as well as the lines going from under the battery trey to the vac tree near the throttle body. The only place that I did NOT trace the vac lines are from the battery trey to the firewall.
The manual says to jump the OBD-I port B2 and enter it into some kind of test mode which I do not understand. If that jump has a code it's 1-2-2.
Anyway, I have pulled the column and back probed the switch and the on/off switch appears to work.
Then it says to check the brake pedal switch and with the car ON and the cruise switch ON, make sure the brake switch has power going IN but not OUT. Well, when I check it, power goes through the switch. Then, when I push on the pedal it breaks the power. So I think it's working properly but they (Mitchell manual) has it wrong (backwards).
So, on to more test. It tells me how to test the switch on the end of the stalk to make sure the + (engauge/accelerate) and - (engauge/decellerate) buttons work. During that test it tells me to pull the control relay under the fuse box cover and test 4T for power when I hit the + button and check 8T for power when I hit the - button. On both test I do get power, which is believe is PROPER/CORRECT operation. However, the Mitchell manual says that I should "replace the cruise control selector switch" if I DO get power when doing that. Then it goes on to instruct me to check the wiring between the switch harness and terminal if I DON'T get power.
So far I think everything is working properly with the switches and relay. Now, I do have the jump wire in the B2 hole in the OBD-I port while doing all of these test. Not sure if that is totally proper.
Please let me know what you guys think. The vacuum lines under the dash look good as well. I pulled the battery box and looked at the vacuum lines there as well as the lines going from under the battery trey to the vac tree near the throttle body. The only place that I did NOT trace the vac lines are from the battery trey to the firewall.
#2
#3
But good idea for Rspi to give it a try just in case.
#4
Lol, Winter, there are 2 switches at your brake pedal arm. The lower one controls your brake lights and the upper one allows the cruise to turn on (and cuts it off). If you adjust those switches so they make proper contact to the brake pedal arm, your problem will be solved. What I usually do is press on the brake pedal and adjust the tip of the contact switch out. When you release the pedal it will self adjust.
I would have hoped people would have figured that I did the "easy" lift the brake pedal with your foot or try to adjust the switches before I dug into the manual with 150 trouble shooting steps.
I would have hoped people would have figured that I did the "easy" lift the brake pedal with your foot or try to adjust the switches before I dug into the manual with 150 trouble shooting steps.
Last edited by rspi; 07-25-2012 at 07:31 AM.
#6
Ok, I looked at the 850 Manual PDF and they say the same thing as the Mitchell Manual. I guess the 2nd part of the trouble shooting instructions are to make sure you confirm that the wire connection is good. You are not suppose to get a signal/power but I am. Which I believe means that my switch is sending multiple signarls to the control unit and it is BAD.
Bad Switch. I'll replace it tomorrow.
Bad Switch. I'll replace it tomorrow.
#7
So I went to the jy today and pulled a switch from a '94. The switch actually looked newish but did have a different part number on it. So... still no cruise. I didn't test the control socket yet to see if the same symptom pressist however, I do have a problem that may be related. So, I'm starting a new thread about the other problem that will be titled "No Speed Signal To My OBD-II Port".
Here is the link to the other thread:
No Speed Signal To My OBD-II Port - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum
Here is the link to the other thread:
No Speed Signal To My OBD-II Port - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum
#8
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