Newbie here. Please don't flog me too hard for asking this question, but I did do a search and didn't see this specific problem addressed.

I'm attempting to replace a torn passenger side CV boot but I'm running into problems. I was able to remove the suspension control arm, intermediate shaft support bracket and driveaxle assembly. The problem is that I'm unable to free the driveaxle CV joint from the hub flange. The Haynes manual indicates that you need to tap the hub flange inwards approximately 0.40 to 0.60 inches with a soft faced mallet. I'm guessing they mean to tap on the end of the drive axle(where the driveaxle nut was removed), but I'm hesitant to hit this too hard even with a soft mallet. Has anyone else run into this problem, and if so how did you get the CV joint free from the hub flange? Is there a puller designed for this purpose?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Here is what I do.
With everything still connected though.
remove the nut almost all the way. Then take a small ballpean hammer and put the nut so that the small round part of the hammer is in the hole of the nut but also touching the axle. Then use a bigger hammer to hit the small hammer(Yah I know you aren't supposed to do that) That will break most of the loose.
If not then I get the but puller out that you connect to the lugs and it actually pushes the axle out.

 

Welcome to the forum, and don't worry about getting flamed. As a moderator I delete sarcastic/offensive replies. Everyone starts out as a newbie, but many seem to forget this fact. Our forum is friendly & helpful, unlike other forums where people keep spitting at each other.

You're trying to free the splined part of the drive shaft from the hub hole, correct? If so, I would try spraying plenty of PB Blaster and keep hittingthe end of the shaftwith a rubber mallet or bronze/brass hammer. Unless you hit it like King Kong does, there should be no damage. It may be stuck because at the factory I believe they put metal adhesive between the spline & the hub (isn't that what Haynes tell you to do upon reassembly?).

The real challenge actually starts after you have removed the shaft. There is a Circlip that is holding the CV-joint onto the shaft, and removing this Circlip can be a PAIN. I ended up breaking the clip ends and ended up removing the inner CV-joint so that I could fit the new boot from the opposite end. Well at least I got to replace the inner boot as well[8D]. So, let us know when you cannot remove the joint from the shaft. And very important, during the procedure try not to get upset and abuse the Circlip, because if the tangs on the clip breaks on you, the outer CV-joint WILL stay there forever.

Many people seem to replace the entire drive shaft as a rebuilt assembly, which may actually be an easier alternative.

Other members may have better methods so wait to hear at least 2-3 more opinions.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/F3EC2E2A5DEC46B79A66D25FF47B5512.jpg[/IMG]

 

Uh, well, forget what I said and follow Tech's advice, Moderator Tech is the top-dog of the forum and you'll be better off with Tech's advice.

Good luck,


JPN

 

Yep, the Haynes manual says to loosen the CV joint from the hub flange BEFORE removing everything else. I got impatient and moved to the next step in the process which was a mistake. It seems counter intuitive to be hitting the axle before it's disengauged from the transmission. How much play is there in the axle when it's still in place? Anyway, you guys are the experts so I'll proceed with your recommended steps.

I never got to the point where I get the joy of pulling out the circlip. After reading up on the boards I'm really looking forward to it...NOT.

Thanks for y'alls help!

 

Hi

I found that a member asked same question in this forum some months ago.

Pls use search box to find this questions with comments

If you want to get more materials that related to this topic, you can visit: CV free

Best regards.

 

Once you get the drive shaft out you'll see how much it expands and collapses (to deal with cornering and suspension travel).

You do have to hit the shaft just a little harder than you think you should. I didn't have a rubber or brass mallet so I used a small piece of wood between the shaft and my 5lb hammer and that worked fine. Leaving the suspension connected while you hit the shaft keeps the energy going where you want it - breaking the shaft free.

I'm one of those people that took the replacing the whole half shaft approach. The CV boot was ripped when I got the car and I had no way of knowing how long it had been that way. I didn't want to go to the trouble of changing the boot only to have the joint fail from being full of dirt that now had no way of getting out.

Good luck.

 

I back out the hub nut enough to provide a surface to hammer on and protecting the threads. The hub nuts are to be replaced anyhow so no way to harm them. Doing this and then using the ball pein hammer directly on the shaft end sounds like a good idea too.

 

I tried all the above and could not free the joint from the hub. Eventually I removed the brake calipers and rotor, released the control arm balljoint and freed the suspension arm. I simply then took my trusty puller and was easily able to pull the hub/suspension strut off the joint. Much quicker than the torment of trying to hammer it out.