Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Does this boost sound normal?

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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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Default Does this boost sound normal?

Ok as you all know i just picked up a really good condition 850 turbo wagon platinum edition. Car runs great, idles great, no problems that i know of. Only has 130k miles. The only thing im noticing is it doesnt seem as fast as i thought it should be. When i floor it the boost gauge goes into the boost white side but not far in there.

))))))))__(((((((( If that were the boost gauge, when i am

off the throttle it goes down to the 4th line down from the middle. When im on full throttle it goes to the 3rd or 4th line from the middle to the right. Now its all stock, so this might be normal and it might be very low boost stock since its the platinum edition. Ive driven a an older 850 turbo with over 200k and it seemed to be faster and it was stock. Could it just be the stock boost is very low? You def feel it pickup but its just so smooth it doesnt feel fast. Engine is super clean didnt notice anything. If this is normal then i guess i need a mbc sooner than i thought lol. Let me know your thoughts.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Congratulations on the new car. Especially if you are new to Volvos alltogether. You have got a great example of the breed.
Your boost gauge movement is normal. The needle will not go past the half way point into the white with everything stock. As to lack of power; Is the transmission in sport mode? Is there premium fuel in the tank? Finally, do you know when the last good tune up was done? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air and fuel filters. Also, when was the timing belt last changed? With 130 thousand on the clock, the belt should have just been changed - or needs to be. Keep it fast, we've got to show the BMW drivers what 5 cylinders can do.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by trektech
Congratulations on the new car. Especially if you are new to Volvos alltogether. You have got a great example of the breed.
Your boost gauge movement is normal. The needle will not go past the half way point into the white with everything stock. As to lack of power; Is the transmission in sport mode? Is there premium fuel in the tank? Finally, do you know when the last good tune up was done? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air and fuel filters. Also, when was the timing belt last changed? With 130 thousand on the clock, the belt should have just been changed - or needs to be. Keep it fast, we've got to show the BMW drivers what 5 cylinders can do.

Thanks. This is not my first volvo, but first turbo version of the 5 cylinder. Yeah the needle usually doesnt go past the middle of the white part maybe just a tad below the halfway point. I was thinking it may be because the car is all stock. As of fuel, i just filled it up with 93, not sure if the original owner used 93. The timing belt, tensioners, water pump was all done last year. Today i replaced the thermostat, coolant, and fuel filter. I might go ahead and do the plugs, cap, rotor while im at it. Plant on taking the stock box out and adding an intake kit to it so i can hear the motor a little better. Yes the transmission was in sport mode. Its just so smooth, you dont feel like its fast but watching the gauges i can get to 80 accelerating onto the highway in no time.

I think im going to order a MBC till i find a second ecu to send out to have it reprogrammed by IPD, rica or speedtuning. Will add a boost gauge tomorrow so i can see exact psi reading. I guess this boost is normal. Maybe set at like 5-7 from the factory.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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boostnm3,

I put an MBC in my Platinum and I love it. I get to between 3/4 and 7/8 on the gauge but I'm right on the edge of fuel cut off. Takes some adjusting to get it just right.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobec
boostnm3,

I put an MBC in my Platinum and I love it. I get to between 3/4 and 7/8 on the gauge but I'm right on the edge of fuel cut off. Takes some adjusting to get it just right.

what kind of boost controller did you get? i was thinking one of those $59 hallmans. also do you have an external boost gauge? if so, what did you hook the power to? the headlight switch and if so what wires did you use? Where did you route the vacuum hose through the firewall to the tree on the throttle body?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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You would be silly to run a MBC without having a boost gauge. You have fuel cutoff at (i think) 16 lbs of boost, so you want to dial in the MBC to get it right to the edge of fuel cutoff. A boost gauge will help a lot with that.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by boostnm3
what kind of boost controller did you get? i was thinking one of those $59 hallmans. also do you have an external boost gauge? if so, what did you hook the power to? the headlight switch and if so what wires did you use? Where did you route the vacuum hose through the firewall to the tree on the throttle body?
I run an MBC without a boost gauge no problem. Fuel cutoff is around 15psi. All you have to do is adjust it slowly until you're just below fuel cut off. You'll know when you hit fuel cut off because the car will surge and hesitate. It takes a few times to get it right but what the heck it's easy and fun. I only did this because I knew I had fuel cut off.

I bought a cheap one off ebay something like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NXS-M...ht_3756wt_1165
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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That's pretty much the same boost controller I have, except mine was like 8 bucks. Damn inflation! A manual boost controller is a VERY simple mechanical part. I don't see the advantage of spending any more money on one that you have to.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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Is the stock ducting good enough for this?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ibified
You would be silly to run a MBC without having a boost gauge. You have fuel cutoff at (i think) 16 lbs of boost, so you want to dial in the MBC to get it right to the edge of fuel cutoff. A boost gauge will help a lot with that.

I have a boost gauge just havent installed it yet. Today i went ahead and finished off stage 0. Car has new everything now. Installed a intake kit, forge BOV. Now i just need to see if someone has a thread showing installation of a boost gauge in a 850 or s70 with pics. Not sure where to route the hose and what wires to tap into for power.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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I tapped the light switch with a relay to power all my gauges, and you should be able to put a T tap into your existing boost gauge tubing to run to your aftermarket boost gauge.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ibified
I tapped the light switch with a relay to power all my gauges, and you should be able to put a T tap into your existing boost gauge tubing to run to your aftermarket boost gauge.

i think im going to try to run a vacuum line to the tree. Dont want to pull the speedo out to tap into the line there. Seems like more work than just running a line.

Im not sure if i want to get the cheap hallman or the more expensive one for a mbc.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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You don't have to remove the cluster -- you can access/ cut the vacuum hose at the driver's footwell. You wouldn't be able to Tee at the end / cluster anyways -- it is a special connector that plugs into the gauge.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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on my cluster, it's a ****** fitting. you could splice in pretty much anywhere on it.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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wait....seriously, i cant say "b a r b e d " here?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ibified
wait....seriously, i cant say "b a r b e d " here?
I couldn't either.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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It's doable but look's like a PITA to run the line through the fire wall. I figure there is no real point of having a proper boost gauge plus the gauge in the cluster both working. So, I just cut the line off from the cluster under the foot well and routed the line to my new boost gauge directly from there. I'll post a picture in just a little bit.

As far as wiring power to the gauge, Pull the head light switch out and tap the Black line and the Pink line. Polarity doesn't matter. Here are excellent directions from Volvospeed.
http://volvospeed.com/Mods/boost_gauge.htm

Wiring..
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It supplies power to my 3 gauges on the pillar.
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Here is where I tapped into the OEM boost line (on the left) with the new line (on the right) going to the gauge. I didn't use the T section cause I've read that it can slow the gauges reaction time. The gauge in the cluster just stays in the center position.
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Last edited by Mad Matt; Dec 24, 2010 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Matt
It's doable but look's like a PITA to run the line through the fire wall. I figure there is no real point of having a proper boost gauge plus the gauge in the cluster both working. So, I just cut the line off from the cluster under the foot well and routed the line to my new boost gauge directly from there. I'll post a picture in just a little bit.

As far as wiring power to the gauge, Pull the head light switch out and tap the Black line and the Pink line. Polarity doesn't matter. Here are excellent directions from Volvospeed.
http://volvospeed.com/Mods/boost_gauge.htm

Wiring..


It supplies power to my 3 gauges on the pillar.


Here is where I tapped into the OEM boost line (on the left) with the new line (on the right) going to the gauge. I didn't use the T section cause I've read that it can slow the gauges reaction time. The gauge in the cluster just stays in the center position.


Wow, thanks for the great little write up. After seeing pics and reading what you did, im going to do the same. Didnt even think about tapping into the line under the dash. Thats easy and wont take anytime at all. Easier than trying to run a vacuum through the firewall. Thanks again.
 
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