I just did a boost leak pressure test, and there is leaks coming out of the EGR attached under the intake manifold. There are 2 holes on the housing that are leaking a lot of air. Is it supposed to leak? I also am leaking from the brake booster hose, but that one is easily fixable. But the EGR components are really expensive. Is it normal?

 

I don't think it is normal at all.
Check and see if your speed tuning tune bypassed the EGR if it did just remove the valve and cap the pipe and made a block off plate for the EGR valve and you will be good.

 

i don't think they did, because when i messed with the egr a while back, i got a code. What can i do, can i clean it? It might be stuck open? It also isn't throwing any codes

 

try cleaning it: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/egr.php

 

can i use a resistor mod to trick the ecu that its still there (if i remove it)? http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/resistor...h-pics-382054/

 

I am not sure if that would work or not. Me I just got a newer computer that was from a Non-EGR car and installed it.

 

well i already have mine upgraded to speedtune, so i would lose money and the process would suck to sell, buy new ecu, send to get tuned.

 

I know but if you happen to get it all fixed right for now and later down the road find a good deal on a 96 or 97 ECU then you know you can get it and install it.

 

I just did some testing. i attached a hose on to the vacuum port on the EGR and sprayed a lil compressed in there to check for a diaphragm leak, but no air would get through, so that probably means the diaphragm is ok. Then i took off the TB and stuck a hose down the hole in the intake manifold that leadsinto the EGR valve, and i sprayed a lil compressed air in there, and it goes right through into the pipe that leads to the exhaust manifold. Does that mean it's stuck open? or is it supposed to do that?

 

I would think it is stuck open. If it was alot of air it might have pushed it open. But if is was only a little then I believe it is stuck open.

 

i just took off the egr, the valve seems to be closing, and only opening if i'm compressing a lot of air. But also it is coming out through the 3 holes on the egr housing. is that normal? Should i block those holes?

 

I don't think it is normal through the holes.

If you put vacuum to it does it work normally?

 

i don't have a vacuum tester, but if i push in the valve and cover the vacuum port, it holds the valve, and then when i let go, the valve shuts again.

if i leave he 3 holes on the housing open, the valve doesn't open as much when i force air into the intake port of the egr, but if i cover the 3 holes on the housing and force air into it, the valve opens immediately

 

i'm getting sick of this EGR crap, can i just remove it and let the check engine light just stay on? will the car run normally? i wouldn't care if the engine light is on, i'll just get a 96 ecu just for smog purposes

 

The car should run normally. Yes the light will stay on.

Keep looking around for a used ECU that is tuned. I found the one I have and bought it for $175.00.

 

when i take off the egr, i want to leave the exhaust line in place but cap it off under the intake manny. But i'm having trouble finding a cap for it, what size is it, and can it be found locally?

 

Not sure of the size you will have to try to find something.

 

i think its 22mm, i know a mercedes has a 22mm drain plug, just can't find which model does exactly

 

On my parted 850, the previous owner had plugged the end of a hose with generic bolt, whatever the size it fits.


JPN

 

yeah i need to bypass it soon. I think the boost issues i'm having is being effected by the EGR, as when i'm boost leak testing it releases alot of air through the housing and exhaust port