Engine Swap
#1
Engine Swap
Edit 7/22/15
I have decided to stick with my current engine and troubleshoot it as I have discovered I can build sufficient power (250-275HP) for a fun daily driver out of it.
Engine: B5254T LPT
Now what I plan to do:
New downpipe/exhaust system
OBX vs iPd is the new battle
Looking into Robert DIY/RSPI's SAS delete system
Bigger turbo - 16T vs 18t
New ECU tune
Any tips would be appreciated
Don't read beyond this point because it deals with the original thread title, I've left it here for explanation as to why the title is what it is.
My 1997 850GLT is sadly now having issues engine wise. 163k on it, leaking oil, and the PCV system needs to be done. This weekend we swapped out what we thought was the whole system, including the tubing. Turns out the dealer only sent us half the tubes. However, Robert DIY(Youtube) has a glove trick to check the PCV system. After swapping what we did, the glove is still majorly inflating.
Moving onto why this thread is titled that, since it's a 2.4 Low Compression Turbo, I don't want to keep investing into that engine as (in my research) it can't handle the power of upgrades.
Which specific engine code should I swap to? Is there any real advantage to any of the R engines? I'm in the USA and if I do perform the swap, I will be changing to an M56H transmission. Any tips/links to external research would be appreciated.
-Thank you for reading.
I have decided to stick with my current engine and troubleshoot it as I have discovered I can build sufficient power (250-275HP) for a fun daily driver out of it.
Engine: B5254T LPT
Now what I plan to do:
New downpipe/exhaust system
OBX vs iPd is the new battle
Looking into Robert DIY/RSPI's SAS delete system
Bigger turbo - 16T vs 18t
New ECU tune
Any tips would be appreciated
Don't read beyond this point because it deals with the original thread title, I've left it here for explanation as to why the title is what it is.
My 1997 850GLT is sadly now having issues engine wise. 163k on it, leaking oil, and the PCV system needs to be done. This weekend we swapped out what we thought was the whole system, including the tubing. Turns out the dealer only sent us half the tubes. However, Robert DIY(Youtube) has a glove trick to check the PCV system. After swapping what we did, the glove is still majorly inflating.
Moving onto why this thread is titled that, since it's a 2.4 Low Compression Turbo, I don't want to keep investing into that engine as (in my research) it can't handle the power of upgrades.
Which specific engine code should I swap to? Is there any real advantage to any of the R engines? I'm in the USA and if I do perform the swap, I will be changing to an M56H transmission. Any tips/links to external research would be appreciated.
-Thank you for reading.
Last edited by the850project; 07-23-2015 at 07:25 AM.
#2
The evolution of the engines followed two paths - the HPT models were worked to add stoutness to the bottom end and had better flow in the exhaust manifold and a larger turbo (larger in the sense of air volume) and related bits (injectors, software tuning etc). So with the R engines you need to track changes by year. For example in 95 the difference is software tuning, later years there were improvements to the manifolds and a larger turbo. With that said, depending on your power goal you can get a generic HPT motor and add a larger turbo and after market ECU tune or you can try to find an R motor and get a blueprinted design. Since your car is a LCT, the big thing will be how to get onto a HPT ECU - not sure if you can just drop one in or if you need a wiring change.
You can google a WIKI by searching on "volvo engine wiki" (or add in a model like 850 or S70). On the move to the manual transmission, best advise I've seen is to buy a donor car so as to pick up all the odd parts you'll need and search for other posts on how to spoof the PNP switch for the computer.
You can google a WIKI by searching on "volvo engine wiki" (or add in a model like 850 or S70). On the move to the manual transmission, best advise I've seen is to buy a donor car so as to pick up all the odd parts you'll need and search for other posts on how to spoof the PNP switch for the computer.
#3
The evolution of the engines followed two paths - the HPT models were worked to add stoutness to the bottom end and had better flow in the exhaust manifold and a larger turbo (larger in the sense of air volume) and related bits (injectors, software tuning etc). So with the R engines you need to track changes by year. For example in 95 the difference is software tuning, later years there were improvements to the manifolds and a larger turbo. With that said, depending on your power goal you can get a generic HPT motor and add a larger turbo and after market ECU tune or you can try to find an R motor and get a blueprinted design. Since your car is a LCT, the big thing will be how to get onto a HPT ECU - not sure if you can just drop one in or if you need a wiring change.
You can google a WIKI by searching on "volvo engine wiki" (or add in a model like 850 or S70). On the move to the manual transmission, best advise I've seen is to buy a donor car so as to pick up all the odd parts you'll need and search for other posts on how to spoof the PNP switch for the computer.
You can google a WIKI by searching on "volvo engine wiki" (or add in a model like 850 or S70). On the move to the manual transmission, best advise I've seen is to buy a donor car so as to pick up all the odd parts you'll need and search for other posts on how to spoof the PNP switch for the computer.
#4
yep to get in the 250 HP range you should look to a few things
- bigger turbo - 16T and 18Ts can be found or you can upgrade the impellers in your turbo, just make sure you have the correct flange type for your model. To note the standard 850Ts had the 15 (the numbers indicate the "pumping volume").
- ECU tune
- 3 inch down pipe and free flow cat (helps evacuate the turbo)
- larger injectors
- transmission flush (assuming you have an automatic as 300 HP is about the top power you'd want to put through the slushbox
- free air intake (at a minimum use a KN air filter).
Getting 250 HP can be done on the stock turbo with a downpipe and an ECU tune if you wish to stay on a budget of under $1000. Adding the bigger turbo can be done with a used part or a rebuild so if you go used, consider replacing the seals etc before install
- bigger turbo - 16T and 18Ts can be found or you can upgrade the impellers in your turbo, just make sure you have the correct flange type for your model. To note the standard 850Ts had the 15 (the numbers indicate the "pumping volume").
- ECU tune
- 3 inch down pipe and free flow cat (helps evacuate the turbo)
- larger injectors
- transmission flush (assuming you have an automatic as 300 HP is about the top power you'd want to put through the slushbox
- free air intake (at a minimum use a KN air filter).
Getting 250 HP can be done on the stock turbo with a downpipe and an ECU tune if you wish to stay on a budget of under $1000. Adding the bigger turbo can be done with a used part or a rebuild so if you go used, consider replacing the seals etc before install
#5
yep to get in the 250 HP range you should look to a few things
- bigger turbo - 16T and 18Ts can be found or you can upgrade the impellers in your turbo, just make sure you have the correct flange type for your model. To note the standard 850Ts had the 15 (the numbers indicate the "pumping volume").
- ECU tune
- 3 inch down pipe and free flow cat (helps evacuate the turbo)
- larger injectors
- transmission flush (assuming you have an automatic as 300 HP is about the top power you'd want to put through the slushbox
- free air intake (at a minimum use a KN air filter).
Getting 250 HP can be done on the stock turbo with a downpipe and an ECU tune if you wish to stay on a budget of under $1000. Adding the bigger turbo can be done with a used part or a rebuild so if you go used, consider replacing the seals etc before install
- bigger turbo - 16T and 18Ts can be found or you can upgrade the impellers in your turbo, just make sure you have the correct flange type for your model. To note the standard 850Ts had the 15 (the numbers indicate the "pumping volume").
- ECU tune
- 3 inch down pipe and free flow cat (helps evacuate the turbo)
- larger injectors
- transmission flush (assuming you have an automatic as 300 HP is about the top power you'd want to put through the slushbox
- free air intake (at a minimum use a KN air filter).
Getting 250 HP can be done on the stock turbo with a downpipe and an ECU tune if you wish to stay on a budget of under $1000. Adding the bigger turbo can be done with a used part or a rebuild so if you go used, consider replacing the seals etc before install
I found this post for tunes http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chips.html
I also researched the downpipes today. The OBX kit is well within the price range but according to the article I read it has a lower build quality and lacks the SAS plug in. The iPd kit has a cat on it.
That's what I've found today.
#7
Check this out - not sure if this is your source but similar findings
850 Exhaust Comparison | K-Jet.org
850 Exhaust Comparison | K-Jet.org
#8
re doing a turbo rebuild - assuming you can get the turbo off the car (typical issues - rusted fasteners etc) rebuilding the turbo is a matter of having the required tools (clip pliers etc) and how you'd clean off the impeller. new seal/bearing kits are readily available on eBay, and there's a few good posts on how to's.
#9
re doing a turbo rebuild - assuming you can get the turbo off the car (typical issues - rusted fasteners etc) rebuilding the turbo is a matter of having the required tools (clip pliers etc) and how you'd clean off the impeller. new seal/bearing kits are readily available on eBay, and there's a few good posts on how to's.
#11
Thank you for all your help! I am currently troubleshooting the pressure building, but if that gets solved I am going to be moving ahead with the performance mods.
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