Evaperator replacement instructions
#1
06-02-2005, 11:09 PM
Evaperator replacement instructions
Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.
Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.
Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.
That should be all for under the hood for now.
Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.
First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.
The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.
Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.
The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.
If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control *****.Then under the 2 outer ***** is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.
Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.
Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.
Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.
Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.
Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.
The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.
Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.
Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.
On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.
When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.
Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evap
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.
Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.
Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.
That should be all for under the hood for now.
Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.
First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.
The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.
Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.
The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.
If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control *****.Then under the 2 outer ***** is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.
Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.
Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.
Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.
Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.
Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.
The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.
Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.
Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.
On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.
When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.
Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evap
#3
08-25-2006, 01:40 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
I am afraid my evaporater might be leaking due to low levels of free-on shortly after it has been topped off. I have narrowed it down to either compressor was not charged correctly and is creating improper levels or there is an evaporator leak. Is there any way to tell if the Evaporator is leaking without removing the dash, etc. etc. ?
Thanks so much.
Thanks so much.
#4
08-25-2006, 08:57 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
Has Dye been put in the system?
If so then you need to remove the lower dash panel. Then the Metal Knee Bolster.
Look Next to the Blower motor to the Left you will see a Black rectangle looking thing with a Plug.
It is held in with one T-15 screw. Remove the screw and move the resistor out. Then you will need to look in the hole with a Black light. If you see Green then it is leaking.
If so then you need to remove the lower dash panel. Then the Metal Knee Bolster.
Look Next to the Blower motor to the Left you will see a Black rectangle looking thing with a Plug.
It is held in with one T-15 screw. Remove the screw and move the resistor out. Then you will need to look in the hole with a Black light. If you see Green then it is leaking.
#5
08-26-2006, 07:13 PM
#6
08-29-2006, 01:27 PM
Which Brand of Evaporator?
Any thoughts on evaporator manufacturers? Dealer quoted $317. I see an ACM brand online for about $240 or CRP Continental for $113.
Also, I think I need a spring lock coupler. Are these intuitive to use, because they look very insignificant for a high pressure connection.
Last, should I replace the receiver or are there precautions I can take? The prices on these are from $80 to $140.
Many thanks for the great instructions. I have a 96 850 and an 00 S70. So I need to learn this process, unfortunately.
Also, I think I need a spring lock coupler. Are these intuitive to use, because they look very insignificant for a high pressure connection.
Last, should I replace the receiver or are there precautions I can take? The prices on these are from $80 to $140.
Many thanks for the great instructions. I have a 96 850 and an 00 S70. So I need to learn this process, unfortunately.
#7
08-29-2006, 09:00 PM
RE: Which Brand of Evaporator?
http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...rator&dp=false
Those aren't that bad. I like to find ones that have a Black support Holding the long line to the Evap for support.
Yes do the Dryer. Try to get a Middle priced one. Remember you get what you pay for.
Are you Talking about the tool to remove the lines?
Those aren't that bad. I like to find ones that have a Black support Holding the long line to the Evap for support.
Yes do the Dryer. Try to get a Middle priced one. Remember you get what you pay for.
Are you Talking about the tool to remove the lines?
#8
08-31-2006, 01:51 PM
RE: Which Brand of Evaporator?
I got in a hurry and ordered before I got your response. Trying to get going before the weekend, you know. I did go cheap but might just go to the dealer and return these. (It's no surprise the dealer has everything in stock!)
Do you recommend replacing the dryer whenever the system is opened? I ask because I was never fully without pressure and it sounds like that job can be another PITB. So, is there a short window of time between when you unpack the new drier and when you get it installed and the system closed back up? I'm moving so slow I don't want the new dryer or anything else to go bad before I get it installed.
And yes, I was asking about a line removal tool. I've never worked with this and it just seemed like something needs to be twisted with a wrench to be able to hold this kind of pressure. Apparently, I'm wrong on that. I must be old school. Do I just slide the tool up under joint to push some kind of spring out of position?
Also, I never did see the dye. I got a cheap black light that showed some residue on the low pressure port. Then I looked through a mirror under the dash into the squirrel cage and saw the same color. So, I think it's the evap, plus all the history of evap failures. We've had the car for 6 years this month so it sounds overdue. It has not had a cabin air filter. I'm expecting to find compost in the box.
I read somewhere about wiring up a timer to the blower so it will run for a couple of minutes and dry out the evap after you shut off the car. Is this doable? A good idea or too much trouble?
I have a client that worked in Winter Park for a company that manufactures these kind of a/c connectors, so I might have to call him if I can't get this apart. Didn't I read you're in Winter Park? I figure I need to know how to do this since I also own a 2000 S70.
Thanks for the help.
Do you recommend replacing the dryer whenever the system is opened? I ask because I was never fully without pressure and it sounds like that job can be another PITB. So, is there a short window of time between when you unpack the new drier and when you get it installed and the system closed back up? I'm moving so slow I don't want the new dryer or anything else to go bad before I get it installed.
And yes, I was asking about a line removal tool. I've never worked with this and it just seemed like something needs to be twisted with a wrench to be able to hold this kind of pressure. Apparently, I'm wrong on that. I must be old school. Do I just slide the tool up under joint to push some kind of spring out of position?
Also, I never did see the dye. I got a cheap black light that showed some residue on the low pressure port. Then I looked through a mirror under the dash into the squirrel cage and saw the same color. So, I think it's the evap, plus all the history of evap failures. We've had the car for 6 years this month so it sounds overdue. It has not had a cabin air filter. I'm expecting to find compost in the box.
I read somewhere about wiring up a timer to the blower so it will run for a couple of minutes and dry out the evap after you shut off the car. Is this doable? A good idea or too much trouble?
I have a client that worked in Winter Park for a company that manufactures these kind of a/c connectors, so I might have to call him if I can't get this apart. Didn't I read you're in Winter Park? I figure I need to know how to do this since I also own a 2000 S70.
Thanks for the help.
#9
08-31-2006, 08:54 PM
RE: Which Brand of Evaporator?
Leave the Dryer to last. Once you have the old apart it goes back together pretty fast.
But if you leave the old one in there and not change it the system will be open for a long time while doing the evap.
Yes the tool slides in and pushes the spring out of the way and the line will slide out with the tool still in there.
You do know you will need 2 different sizes right?
There is an afterblow kit avalible. I have only ever dealt with the kit Volvo sells. I have had to install it many times. It comes with instructions on how to install it. Not sure for How much though.
Yes I work in Winter Park.
But if you leave the old one in there and not change it the system will be open for a long time while doing the evap.
Yes the tool slides in and pushes the spring out of the way and the line will slide out with the tool still in there.
You do know you will need 2 different sizes right?
There is an afterblow kit avalible. I have only ever dealt with the kit Volvo sells. I have had to install it many times. It comes with instructions on how to install it. Not sure for How much though.
Yes I work in Winter Park.
#10
11-26-2006, 03:16 AM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
I followed your instructions and was fantastic, I did it, I was afraid to do it, but when I started, having this instructions 
was the best thing that could happen, I mean, without them it would have cost me $ 1200.00, plus I wouldn't have had any idea of how to do it
, my wife helped me (It's her S/W[&:]) and between saturday and sunday, it was done!!!
, thanks...
was the best thing that could happen, I mean, without them it would have cost me $ 1200.00, plus I wouldn't have had any idea of how to do it, my wife helped me (It's her S/W[&:]) and between saturday and sunday, it was done!!!, thanks...
#12
03-09-2007, 07:56 AM
#13
03-09-2007, 08:16 AM
#15
06-10-2007, 02:32 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
Sorry to bump this...
How do I remove the freon safely? And can I reuse the used freon or should I dispose of it somewhere?
And is the airbag hard to do? I'd hate for it to explode on me. Or even worse, if I ever got into an accident, it doesn't go off...
Thanks a lot. I'm probably going to have more questions as I decide whether or not I want to do this..
How do I remove the freon safely? And can I reuse the used freon or should I dispose of it somewhere?
And is the airbag hard to do? I'd hate for it to explode on me. Or even worse, if I ever got into an accident, it doesn't go off...
Thanks a lot. I'm probably going to have more questions as I decide whether or not I want to do this..
#16
06-10-2007, 06:23 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
The best thing to do is make a deal with a shop or something to have them remove what is in there and after you make the repair you will come back to have them vaccum and recharge the system.
The Air bags once the battery is disconnected you should be fine.
They both just unplug.
The Air bags once the battery is disconnected you should be fine.
They both just unplug.
#17
06-25-2007, 01:39 PM
#18
06-25-2007, 01:49 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
^I know FCP Groton sells theres for 139 + Shipping.
I found one on eEuroParts for 129 shipped, but I'm unsure wheather or not it will last...My guess would be that it'd be reliable, but I'm not sure. I'm going to be picking one up too once I get these brakes fixed...
The only thing that you might want to do would be the heater core. The condenser is located in the engine bay.
Oh, actually one HUGE thing. Pull the bulb for the service light!
I found one on eEuroParts for 129 shipped, but I'm unsure wheather or not it will last...My guess would be that it'd be reliable, but I'm not sure. I'm going to be picking one up too once I get these brakes fixed...
The only thing that you might want to do would be the heater core. The condenser is located in the engine bay.
Oh, actually one HUGE thing. Pull the bulb for the service light!
#19
06-25-2007, 02:45 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
Yep, My service light is on now and I do not have the OBD I or II. Im pretty sure that it is the PCV valve. Thanks for the heads up on the heater core. I will look at FCP. I also found one coated for $111.23. What do you think shops would charge to put this in. 6 hours, 8 hours at $80.00?
My ABS brake light is on as well and I understand it takes some soldering.
My ABS brake light is on as well and I understand it takes some soldering.
#20
06-25-2007, 05:51 PM
RE: Evaperator replacement instructions
Try here to for the evap.
http://www.swedishpartswholesale.com/
I would do the dryer as well.
Check the heater core really good while you are in there.
You have to have either OBDI or OBDII
A shop will charge like 10 hours labor to do it.(Book time)
http://www.swedishpartswholesale.com/
I would do the dryer as well.
Check the heater core really good while you are in there.
You have to have either OBDI or OBDII
A shop will charge like 10 hours labor to do it.(Book time)