Factory foglights
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
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Factory foglights
First of all I want to thank all of you, I was reading one of the posts about the funky wipers, and I managed to fix mine without paying a mechanic, which is awsome!
I am new to the prestigious Volvo club, and I recently purchased a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo, it is an awsome vehicle.
Anyhoo, this particular 850 came with the factory foglights, and I managed to get one of them working, but the drivers side one is still not functional. I was wondering if there is some common problem with those or if it is a hit and miss thing and I should keep trouble shooting?
Thanx.
I am new to the prestigious Volvo club, and I recently purchased a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo, it is an awsome vehicle.
Anyhoo, this particular 850 came with the factory foglights, and I managed to get one of them working, but the drivers side one is still not functional. I was wondering if there is some common problem with those or if it is a hit and miss thing and I should keep trouble shooting?
Thanx.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,340
Likes: 11
From: IPS, MA
RE: Factory foglights
Hello Mr. Lukeman,
Greetings from Chicagoland.
Are you referring to the rear fog light? If so, there is only one fog light, mine is on the driver side. I don't know why Volvo decided to put only one light, some people told me that it's because if there were two, they might be mistaken for brake lights.
I don't know of any factory front fog lights. If one side is working, it is probably open circuit for the driver side unit. Check to see if the wires coming from the light has a cut/loose connections. Very often, electrical problems are due to loose/dirty connections.
Good luck,
JPN
Greetings from Chicagoland.
Are you referring to the rear fog light? If so, there is only one fog light, mine is on the driver side. I don't know why Volvo decided to put only one light, some people told me that it's because if there were two, they might be mistaken for brake lights.
I don't know of any factory front fog lights. If one side is working, it is probably open circuit for the driver side unit. Check to see if the wires coming from the light has a cut/loose connections. Very often, electrical problems are due to loose/dirty connections.
Good luck,
JPN
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia
RE: Factory foglights
Disconnect the foglight from its connector socket.
With a good quality multimeter, swich it to the closest DC voltage range above 12 V then insert a prong in each of the female connectors of the socket to make a complete circuit and check if the multimeter registers 12 volts DC.
If the multimeter does register 12 volts, that indicates the fault is in the foglight unit itself.
The rear of the foglight unit can be removed quite simply by turning the end cap about one quarter of a turn to clear the clamp lugs. Carefully remove bulb and connect it across a 12v supply to see if it still works as well as checking the internal wiring for loose connections or corrosion.
If the multimeter indicates there is no voltage at the connector, then you will have to trace the wiring back, checking occasionly for 12v voltage.
The best way to check for a missing voltage is to get a multimeter lead with a sharp needle point that can be easily pushed through the insulation into the internal copper conductor to check for voltage (the other lead must securely connected to a good ground/earth point).
Hope this helps.
With a good quality multimeter, swich it to the closest DC voltage range above 12 V then insert a prong in each of the female connectors of the socket to make a complete circuit and check if the multimeter registers 12 volts DC.
If the multimeter does register 12 volts, that indicates the fault is in the foglight unit itself.
The rear of the foglight unit can be removed quite simply by turning the end cap about one quarter of a turn to clear the clamp lugs. Carefully remove bulb and connect it across a 12v supply to see if it still works as well as checking the internal wiring for loose connections or corrosion.
If the multimeter indicates there is no voltage at the connector, then you will have to trace the wiring back, checking occasionly for 12v voltage.
The best way to check for a missing voltage is to get a multimeter lead with a sharp needle point that can be easily pushed through the insulation into the internal copper conductor to check for voltage (the other lead must securely connected to a good ground/earth point).
Hope this helps.
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