Greetings 850 brothers!

I had a front end noise diagnosed on my beloved T-5R over the weekend by the "Volvo Whisper". It appears I have a failing front wheel hub on passenger side.

I have never had to replace a front wheel hub on any car before. Does anyone have words of wisdom with this repair?

Thank you!!!

 

I found the procedure:

Volvo Performance Repairs And Modifications

 

 

Don't use an impact on the big nut as the big nut is attached to the shaft that goes into the transmission and engages with the guts of the transmission. Be very careful with the torx bolts that hold the bearing to the assembly. They are easy to strip if you don't hold the socket tight against them.
Torque the big nut back down when you're done. Our cars don't call for much (80-95 lbft ??) but it's important for the longevity of the bearing. Some other cars call for over 200. If you don't have a torque wrench you can get a loaner from most auto parts stores.
It's a pretty easy job as long as the shaft will come out of the hub. If it's stuck, use a puller. You can get one the same time you're getting the torque wrench and it's a loaner so you get the $$$ back.
DON'T hammer on the end of the shaft. If you run out of "play" in the joints you are pounding straight into the transmissions guts.
Soak the splines with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil (as long as it isn't WD40) before you start. Even a day or two might be good.

 

This is damn good advice! Thank you "Kiss4aFrog"

 

I'm pretty sure our axles are torqued to 80 FT LBS plus 60 degrees. So you may want to get an angle torque gauge or figure what 60 degrees means to you. That will be between 45 and 90 degrees.

 

Thanks for keeping me honest Robert


From the BOOK !!
Tighten center nut to 80 ft. lbs (120 N.m), plus an additional 120 degrees. Lock drive shaft center nut by using a chisel and tapping nut locking flange into drive shaft slot.

 

Well, it turns out I was 120 degrees off. Ya have to watch out for "free" advise.

 

Yikes! I was 60° off. Not sure where I got that bad advice from. I need to find my manual disc.

 

Hammering to get the shaft out of the hub is fine as long as you don't mushroom the end. It isn't going to do anything to the transmission. If it's the passenger side, the axle is held in place with the carrier bearing. It can't go into the transmission any further. And if it's the driver side, it still isn't going to go any further into the transmission.

And using an impact on the big nut certainly isn't going to cause any problems. That's what CV nut impact sockets are made for..

 

Well, it's not really the best way, so there's no need to argue about that, really. I use a big breaker bar. I don't prefer to put the torque on the transmission, even if that is what it's made for, because it's more work, and also ineffective unless the car is on the ground, which of course it never is at my house. I work on cars in the air. The brakes will hold it. Usually, I will just drop a screwdriver down inside the brake rotor to hold it still. I've never broken a brake rotor that way.

 

What's not the best way? An impact gun works fine for the big nut. It isn't going to damage the transmission.

 

ES6T = "That's what CV nut impact sockets are made for.."

No , , , they're made for lazy people.

 

Work smarter, not harder.

Using an impact is not going to damage the trans in any way. The splines on the output shaft that turn the axle that move the car can easily handle it.