I just changed timing belt on my 2.0 10V 850.
I also changed the tensioning roller and the secondary roller. They were identical to the ones I removed. The timing belt removed was checked and was identical to the new one.

Still, when mounted and the tensioner was put back in place, there is a lot of slack in the belt. I can left the tensioning wheel by hand about 20-30mm !

So now, I'm thinking that maybe the tensioner is bad. The pin that extends has extended just about the same amount that it was extended when I removed (to my memory). But if the tensioning wheel is supposed to tighten the belt the amount in needs - there is alot more the pin in the tensioner needs to extended.
So, just how much is the pin supposed to/is it able to come out ?!

Just so that I know if it is worth the money to buy a new one. For now, I can see no other solution than the tensioner being bad. But - I just don't know.

 

GET a new one. if you can move it by hand it is BAD and needs replaced BEFORE you start the car!!!

 

Are you sure you have a 10V belt and not a 20v belt?

 

Follow Tech’s advice first. If it turns out that you do have the correct belt, replace the tensioner cylinder.

1994:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...136/by_year/44

1995-1997:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...136/by_year/45

I would go with the OEM. I could not find one for the 1993 model.

Did you remove the lockpin on the tensioner after installation, BTW?


JPN

 

Hi Patriq,

You might be able to get some information from the link below:

https://volvoforums.com/m_138398/tm.htm

I just finished doing TB on my 10 valve engine and just to mention that the only (little)difference between the two belts is few number of teeth. The belt on 10 Valve engine should be 144 where as the belt on 20 valve motor should be 148. As a result if you have the wrong belt in 10 valve motor, you will definately have a slack beyond the travel of tensioner.

 

Thanks guys - those were exactly the kind of advices I needed.
Where I bought the belt, they are very thorough. (and also offer the most expensive time-belt kits....). But, I will now remove the belt and count the teeth.

So, the lenght of the belt is the same on the 10V and the 20V, but the number of teeth is different ? That would explain (if I got the wrong belt), why it seemed correct when i compared. I off courses didn't count the teeth.

Rest assured, I won't start it before this is solved ! :-)

But - one questions remains unanswered - how much should/could the pin extend ?
(and, yes - I've removed the locking pin)

 

Update:

I indeed got the wrong timing belt. I called the supplier. When I enter the cars registration number on their webpage, it says it is a 10V B5202S engine.
But, when I stated the registration number over the phone - he said: "...and your timing belt should be a 148 teeth". I said, no - mine is a 10V. He was then perplexed - because over the system in the store the car was registered as a 20V. In fact all cars after 94 was supposed to have the 148 teeth belt accordingly to their system. (mine is a 97).

So, problem solved. The manager is going to call me up. I asked if they would do the change for me now, since I've already done the operation based on the wrong belt they gave me despite me giving them correct info. We'll see what happens....

;-)

EDIT: the store has agreed to change to correct belt for me ! :-)
Now I only need to find a discarded ECU.....

 

Glad you have found the cause.


JPN

 

Glad you figured it out

 

Well, as mentioned - the store made a deal with a workshop that in turn came with a truck and picked up my car to change to correct belt.

But, it struck me - I've seen no mention of changing waterpump when changing belt. But if the pump goes bad/jams - could it actually stop the belt making it jump a few teeth on the cam(s) ? Has anyone had an engine brake down because of the waterpump ?

 

The genuine Volvo water pump seems to last a very long time, and I was one of the few people who actually replaced it. I replaced mine only because there was a minor seepage of coolant. I used German HEPU, non-OEM but seemed a good quality.

I have not heard of anyone having the water pump seizing and breaking the belt (except I think I read one post that I think was not an 850 that had a seized water pump taking the belt & everything else with it).

If you are concerned, you can replace the water pump by yourself. The belt can be left in place (but must not be contaminated with coolant), but the pain is to remove the tensioner & compressing it & re-installing it. If you can take the nuisance, you can do the water pump (I would use genuine Volvo pump).

See what Moderator Tech has to say on this.


JPN

 

Well, if the belt can be left in place if I need to change - I'm not to concerned about it. I just replaced the belt - and had everything removed to do so.
It was not too bad at all I think. I was just thinking in retrospective - should I have replaced the water pump to when doing belt and rollers ?

But, that easies my mind. I'll just take it if I start hearing noice from it. For now - I've had no problems at all with it - and there seemd to be no leakage of either oil or water around the belt. So I'm pretty confident it'll stick for a good while now.
Car has done 290.000km now.

Thanks again.

(by the way - has anyone on this forum to your knowledge MegaSquirted a 90's Volvo ? I have a finished unit just waiting to be put to use)