The engine has two codes stored 132 and 241

132 Says Battery Voltage is Too High or Too Low .. Does this mean I need a new battery? The one in the car is pretty small looking.

241 is EGR Flow too slow which means I assume I need the EGR cleaned out.. just had the PCV, IAC and Throttle body cleaned the other day.

No Tran codes were stored which is good.

The ABS socket had a bunch stored
312 Right front wheel sensor open or shorted
213 No left rear wheel signal on moving off
214 No right rear wheel signal on moving off
141 Pedal signal faulty shorted to ground
142 Stop lamp switch faulty

Any help on those ABS issues?

I finally got the actual miles of the car since the ODO stopped at 185765.. its now at 201,485 miles

 

Did you clear them and see if they come back?

 

First follow Tech's advice and if the codes come back:

132 Says Battery Voltage is Too High or Too Low
Quote from the factory manual:
Code 1-3-2 (Battery Voltage Signal Too Low Or Too High)
1) If fault is permanent and voltage is too high, check
charging system for signs of excessive charge. If fault is
intermittent, and voltage is too high, replace voltage regulator.
2) If fault is permanent and voltage is too low, operate
engine at idle. Connect voltmeter to battery. If voltmeter reads 12-15
volts, check wiring between battery and ECM terminal A27 for an open
circuit. If voltmeter does not read 12-15 volts, check charging
system. See ON-VEHICLE TESTING in the ALTERNATOR & REGULATOR article
in the ELECTRICAL section. If voltmeter does read 12-15 volts, check
wiring between battery and ECM for connector resistance.
3) If fault is intermittent and voltage is too low, check all
ECM and main relay wiring and connectors for looseness and and/or
contact resistance.

You really get what you pay for a battery. I would avoid cheap franchise brand. I would go with something like The Interstate Battery.

241 is EGR Flow too slow:
The testing requires Volvo testing tool (998-8686) and is quite involving. Either the valve is clogged with oil or the temp sensor may be retiring. As recommended by the owner's manual, I would try cleaning the valve, as well as cleaning the electrical connector with contact cleaner. But again clear cods first and see if it comes back.

No Tran codes were stored which is good.
Good for you! The best protection for you is to make sure the fluid is clear red and the fluid level is correct. Also, try not to shift whilst the car is still in motion. Also note, that the PNP switch and the micro switch are known to go south, in which case you want to have them replaced with new ones.

The ABS socket had a bunch stored (that is common):
For 1995-1993, the problem is usually the brake light switch or the pedal position sensor. However, sometimes the module is shot (in my case). No one seems to repair the module for 1995-1993 so you may have to gamble and open it and attempt to fix it yourself. The problem seems to be cracked soldering on the circuit board. Search the forum for related topics, as someone has successfully repaired the pedal sensor and the problem was fixed (a gentleman named arzy). If your ABS still acts up after having repaired the sensor & switch, the module may be shot. See attached for some ref.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/abs-controller-cover-removal-11104/
The new forum format has deleted the pics so I'll work on it again.


JPN

 

Thanks for the help. I almost forgot when I try to clear the codes it doesn't work or I am doing it wrong according to the instructions found on here and Volvospeed.com.

I cycle through the codes on A2 with the jumper in and after 2 codes for A2 it repeats the first code again.. ok then I go and hold the button for 6-7 seconds and let go and hold it again for 6-7 seconds and then read the codes again they are still there..

The instructions say to hold the button for 6-7 seconds until the light comes on.. well while your holding the button the light is on.. so I don't get it unless they mean after you left go after 6-7 seconds you wait for the light to come on again then hold for another 6-7 seconds in that case I haven't tried that yet because I just thought about that last night.

Again thanks for the help and hopefully I can clear some that maybe are old codes (I doubt it haha)

 

See if this helps.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/

 

Hold the button down for like 8 secs to be sure (one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand, etc).

Release, the light should go out, and the come back on. When it lights back up hold again for 8 secs. You should hear the car "reset" itself, mine makes a funny noise in the engine bay, like it's turning on a pump or something. After that the codes are cleared.

I had the ABS codes too, and I think a pedal sensor code, cleared them and they haven't come back (yet). No problems with my ABS and I've had it kick in a bit since it's been snowing lately.

 

I figured it was hold the button let go and wait for the light to come on then hold button again ... the directions that I kept reading made it seem like I was supposed to wait for the light to come on while holding the button which made no sense since the light comes on when you hold the button.. or i am just dumb lol

My ABS and TRAC on the dash go off and all after starting the car and never come on. I would feel the 20mph ABS "self test" that it does which I read in the owners manual that it does that. So once it warms up in 2 days or so I can clear all the codes and see what really comes back. Also the TRAC I can feel working when slipping on the snow so I know that works.