Odometer gear should be no problem for you. Google for Volvo 850 odometer fix. Matthews Volvo site has a good tutorial. I would go to Volvo, have them read the mileage and then adjust the value in the odometer its a 5 min job if the cluster is already open.

For the a/c: check to see first if the compressor is ok (clutch): take off the connector located on the right near the strut on the pipes which come out from the firewall. This is the pressostat which measures if there is enough gas in the pipes. If not if will prevent the compressor to run as it would take damage. Insert a wire in the connector and connect the two leads. Motor shoud be running and air conditioning on. If the compressor kicks in when you connect the wire then the a/c is missing gas (due to leakage or just empty). If the compressor does not kick it then measure the gap at the clutch. It should not be more than 0,6 mm (0,3 is minimum cleareance). If it's bigger than either you seek a replacement or take out the clutch and remove some of the shims inside so that the cleareance is less than 0,6 mm.
Also there is the metal clips solution (google it), if the gap is not all that big..
Cheers
Cristian

 

You can install the cam seals either way but to make sure they are in properly when the cam cover is on, check it before you install the rotor cap.

The alarm horn is at the firewall and from what I seen in the pic it was missing the front disk and the nut that adjust it's tone.

AS FOR you letting a Cavaliar spank you, you may have had your ECU setting set to ECONO which is the lazy setting to save gas. If you floor it the setting will be over rode into a more aggressive acceleration. You can also switch the car to SPORTS mode and it will be more a lot more responsive.

 

The oil leak may have caused the misfires.

You will need to pull the dash pad to get at the service reminder light bulb. Wait till you need to replace light bulbs or something.

 

Did you use carburator or brake cleaner at the throttle? I cleaned at a friend of mines T5 a while ago the throttle housing with carburator cleaner and it smoked just the way I see it in your video, scared the crap out of him as he thought the turbo is gone After some minutes it cleared and never came up.
Also if the car was a long period without battery the computer needs a while to readjust, has difficulties in the start to keep a steady idle.

 

Do you have an ABS light? If so, that is likely causing your speedo errors. Those cars have an ABS module near the brake booster that develops bad solder joints. You can fix it yourself or take the route most here do and get a rebuilt module from www.Mid-WestABS.com. I think the proper link is in my signature.

 

http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin..._volvo_850.htm

Dash pad removal.

 

These cars do NOT like after market ignition parts. I have found that many of them (about half) still have the original wires.

 

Wow what a wealth of info here. Thanks guys.

Scutyde, you nailed it with the AC. Did just what you said. Jumped the two leads for the sensor and away the pump went. Pulled a bottle of 134a off of the shelf, and within a couple of minutes it fired away. At first it would click on and off, and only stay of for a second or two. After a bit, it would stay on for 10 seconds or so. The gauge on the can was broken, so I don't know what kind of pressure I was running, so stopped. The air was not super cold at that point, but cold enough to feel it was working. The car was also at a stop at full temp, so that will make a difference. Hopefully it is not leaking!

Alex

 

Replacing the odometer gears isn't bad at all. A couple things to mention.

You have a 96, which is most likely OBD II, not OBD I, so you won't be able to determine the actual mileage like you could on an OBD I car.

Replace both gears. While only 1 commonly fails, I've heard of both failing, and it's enough work that you will not want to do it for 'fun' a second time.

I used rspi's guide on removing the dash pad. It's located here:

Dash Pad Removal, Volvo 850

Remove the entire dash pad, don't take the path where you lift one side of the dash. You won't save much time, and you risk creasing/snapping/breaking the plastic under the dash pad.

Pay close attention to the tab to the left of the glovebox. Don't get it all back together like I did, and realize you forgot to tuck the tab in.

Be extremely careful removing and reinstalling the dash pad. The channel the front edge of the dash pad slides into is extremely brittle. Even looking at it is likely to crack it, if it isn't already cracked. Mine shattered for a foot long section or so, and looks like crap now.

Make sure you unhook the battery before disconnecting the passenger airbag. I'm told you can't clear SRS codes yourself, and must go to the dealer. If the car has power while the airbag is unplugged, you will set a SRS code.

Get some micro torx drivers. A set that has T5-T10 or so would be handy. If you don't have the right size, you can't take the cluster apart. Of course, if you have the car torn apart and you don't have another vehicle, you'll have to put it all back together to run to somewhere and get the drivers.

Short torx drivers are nice for removing the screws above the A/C vents. The ones I have are the longer set that Lowes had, and they work great for most things, but fitting inside the A/C vents was tight, and it took longer than it would have if I had the shorter bits.

Check to see if any bulbs in your cluster are burnt out while it's apart. Easier to replace them while you have the cluster out of the car. Definately pull the cluster. I believe you can add the missing bulb for cruise control and tailgate open - something I've learned since doing my gear repair. Can anyone comment on this? I'd like to add them to my car if it's as simple as just plugging in 2 more LEDs..

When unplugging the vacuum line to the boost gauge in the cluster, remove the kick panel below the steering column and disconnect the hose from the white plastic tube. Getting the vacuum line off the boost gauge at the cluster is a little tight, and you don't want to break the gauge. Fishing the vacuum line back through the dash is a little tight, but not that bad. Have a set of knee pads or something to kneel on while reaching up through the dash.

I think it's a 1-2 hour job from start to finish if you have the right tools and read everything carefully beforehand. If you miss a few of the gotchas like I did, it takes a little longer. No harm in taking longer, sometimes it prolongs the enjoyment if you like this sort of thing like I do.

 

Midwest ABS does an awesome job on the ABS modules.

The dash gears and ABS modules are a walk in the park compared to doing the head, so you'll be fine.

 

DANG John, those cluster tips are dead on. I think I'll read those tips when I do the video.

If you need to drive the car with the dash pad off, you can unbolt the air bag from the pad, bolt it in the car and connect the wires. I had to do that for a couple of weeks while I chased a gremlin.

If the AC evaporator hasn't been replaced it likely leaks freon. The question is how much. If it's leaking less than 1 can every 90 days I wouldn't replace it, just my opinion.

 

 

Great write-up. Guess I need to order the gears and go to town.

Something that bugs me the most right now is the speedometer. Anyone have any insight for this?

The speedometer is not showing speed, and the in-dash computer is not computing mpg and such. This would make sense if the speedometer (and I imagine in the DIGITAL trip meter) would run off the same sensor. I think this is separate from the odometer gear issue, as when the speedometer worked so did the mpg calculator, and the digital trip meter but the mechanical odometer and trip meter did not function. That tells me we have to problems here, the gears being on of them.

I am looking online trying to find the location of the speedometer sending unit. Not finding it. I almost wonder if the connector (they are usually near the bottom) is wet or dirty and just needs cleaned or is loose. This happened on a Chevy I had once.

Any insight on this guys? This forum topic has been SUPER helpful, and hopefully others will stumble upon it and get answers. Cars seem to have the same problems, typically.

 

Forgot to mention.... ABS light works when I turn key to pos II, but no ABS light when driving.

 

Starting with 96 models the ABS unit computes the vehicle speed signal. Prior to that it was a sensor in the gearbox.
The 96 ABS units are known to mallfunction due to bad soldering points. This manifests usually with permanently lit ABS lights in the dash but it could be all sorts of errors. Try to read off the ABS codes.
Another source for the error could be a bad cable connection between ABS unit and dash.

 

Yes the speedo and odo are separate issues. 95% Of the time the ABS module is the problem. It will also stop the cruise control from working.

 

Well, fixed the speedo issue. The ABS tutorial that is floating around did the trick. Never did figure out what the crazy wiring was, but hey, it works now, so I will leave it alone. No ABS light as far as I can tell now, so that is good.

I drove to a neighboring town a few days ago to pick up a rear passenger door that is already painted black. Unfortunately the place is closed on Saturdays...what a bummer. Will have to go again. I look forward to seeing that door fixed. It will improve the car a ton.

Still cannot drive this beast. I do not have a set of non-studded snow tires for it, plus I still need to get it registered. Can't wait to start driving it.

 

Looking into rims. I have not found many in my price point that I can get excited over. i would like to spend under $500, which I realize will not get me the highest quality stuff, but I think it should at least be ok. One of my pet peeves is multi sized hole rims. Can't stand them, they scream cheapo to me. Still, i like these

17 Wheels Rim HHR Malibu Cobalt Focus Dart Jaguar Sable G5 G6 Saab Volvo Fusion | eBay

And I like these even better.

Motegi Mr 116 17 x 7 5 x 108 4 25 40 Offset Black 1 Wheel Rim | eBay

Love the second set sans the multi holes. I like the red outline, and i want to add a red pinstripe.

Alex

 

Are you completely against Volans?

 

Not at all, if I can find them. They would have to be for a good price, I almost prefer the Motegis though.