I was trying to change some o-rings on my fuel injectors and this thing would just not loosen. I tried with 2 wrenches and it wouldn't move. I went at it for a bit, trying to only move it in an unscrewing fashion (not jiggling it, moving it in weird angles, nothing). All of a sudden it popped off so I thought, "Finally..." But it wasn't a good thing. It looks like this now and it's pouring fuel out. What should I do? Is there any way I can do this on my own? if I bring it to the mechanics, will it cost a ton? Please some one help me, this is my only car. I'm lucky enough to have an extra one but it's not mine and I won't have it for long. Here are some pics.

 

Easiest thing would be to get a new fuel rail from a junk yard.
or find a used one on one of the forums.

 

Yes, and next time hold the other bolt with a box end wrench.

 

Its that simple? I can do that. And I did do that, it still wouldn't come loose and eventually snapped.

 

Always remember the PB blaster....

Ive taken mine off about 12 times in the last 17 years....
never had a problem

 

Not really any other option except new from dealer and a good used one is a better buy as there isn't anything to be gained by new in this case other than getting your hands on it quicker and easier but at much higher $$$ .

For the fuel line you're going to have to either get that end off which it looks like it isn't going to happen or replace the whole line or cut a used line off and use a "compression" fitting to piece it together. Try not to use a hacksaw but a tube cutter for the final cut. Hack it off at the yard but "cut" it for the final fit. The trick is to see if you can track down a metric compression fitting. I've never tired to find one and I'm not sure if a SAE one will clamp down. Auto parts store, big box (home depot) or maybe even local hardware store might? Worst case you might need to flare fit the replacement piece in.
Not to give you more work than you want but when you take the rail off it would be a good time and recommended to replace the two "O" rings on each injector if they haven't been done recently. You can also get a little packet of "anti-seize" at the parts store ($1.20?) and coat the threads at the point your line broke to make the next time go a bit smoother.
We feel your pain

 

If you have a hard time finding a rail there is a S70 in a yard near me I can snag for you.

Not sure if you did this or not but what I usually do for snug/stuck connections is hold the wrenches close and close them together like a hand grip with both hands. Example: One wrench is pointing at 12 O'clock and the other is pointing at 11 O'clock, then squeeze them together.

 

Wow this is really helpful! Looks like I got a good project ahead of me, luckily I have some car buddies around me that will be able to help if I need it. Now,what do you mean cut it at the yard? Just right above the break? And are compression fittings universal? I've never used one before. And my plan was to replace the o-rings and then this happened. I took advantage and did 1 but 2 of bigger seals of the bottom of the injectors fell off into the engine bay somewhere...my luck has been great lately...

If I can't end up finding one then I'll let you know, my biggest problem is figuring out exactly those part names are. I found what looks like it one eBay for $25 but I'm not buying until I'm certain. And no I didn't try that technique. Even with the piece snapped off nothing would budge. I'm definitely getting some anti-seize for it though.

Thank you guys for helping me out! I will let you all know how its going or if I need any more help!

 

When you have two lines connecting and you need to break the connection you don't want to try and hold one wrench stationary while trying to turn the other. What you do is flip the wrenches around so they are as close to each other as possible and then squeeze the wrenches together. This prevents something from slipping and twisting a line beyond repair. It also allows you to focus the force better.

Post the ebay link and we can take a look and give you advise on fitment.

The new seals are just a suggestion and they are cheap and you're already there.

Compression fittings are specific to the OD of the tube. When I said hack, you are going to need the fuel supply line coming up the firewall and over the engine. If you can get the whole thing it would be a bolt in. If you can't get the whole thing you would likely "hack", use a hacksaw or just bend and break it off depending on your "yard" toolkit.

Youtube compression fitting how to.

NEVER USE ON BRAKES !!!!!!!! NEVER EVER NO MATTER WHAT. It does work, it is quicker and easier than flaring but when someones daughter runs out in front of you and you slam them on, you'll blow the line and kill them. They were made for lower pressure water plumbing. Work great for fuel.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...uV6qAA&cad=rja

It's a hassle but you might be better off using a metric flare fitting and learning to flare or finding a friend who can. That joint has to be solid or you're going to look like 9-11 going down the road if it opens up.

First picture, compression fitting. Tube is cut straight on the end and slipped in with a collar over it and compressed to seal.
Second is flare fitting and you know how that works as it broke on you. The difference is you cut the tube end straight, slide the nut on BEFORE YOU FLARE, flare it and then snug it down to the fitting.

 

If you don't have any yet, get a product called "PB Blaster". It's a penetrating lube that puts the others to shame! IMHO
This was an unlikely joint to snap but it's pretty common on brake lines and bleeders.

 

1. For the incoming fuel line that broke off. Get a nice set of vise grips on the broken piece and a good brake line wrench on the other. It will take some effort but it will come loose.

2. On the fuel rail, the piece that broke off from the rail comes out of the rail, its a swivel that can move, it will come out. You do not need to purchase another rail. In fact, you dont even need to remove the rail...remove the clip holding it in and it will slide out.

 

What he said !! I didn't look at the picture close enough. You can still save the fuel line.

You should be able to soak it with PB blaster and then make sure you're using two LINE wrenches or Flare NUT wrenches and squeeze the handles together. The line wrenches are close to a six point socket in that they grab more than just the two sides a normal open end wrench would. You may know but just in case you didn't

 

Yup, you were dead on! My father-in-law came over to help and got the two pieces seperated. We found that the smaller piece was the culprit, so we found a local junkyard and decided to check it out. They had 2 850's and 2 S70's. We found that the S70's fuel line was an exact match and so was the bottom piece that went into the fuel rail. We got some new orings and seals and went home. Put it all together and voila! No more leak and no broken parts. All in all the whole project cost me $17... $5 for the napa fuel injector oring kit, $7 for a 17mm wrench, and $5 for the spare fuel line from the junk yard. I was expecting to pay at least $75 for something, guess I got lucky! Thanks for all the help guys! You saved my life and a lot a money!!