These seem like unrelated facts, but just to give the whole story, here it is. Car sat for a week or so, broken rear strut. Wife needed to make a trip up the street and it started and drove fine. She got back and swithced off the "auto" lights to parking , left them on and killed the battery.
-It took a charge and when I tried to start again, the hazard lights started to flash. The button for the hazards was still off and the car won't even crank. No starter click, nothing.
-Checked coil and starter connections, seem to be ok.
-Is there a secret to the flashing hazards that's telling me there is something specifically wrong.
-Also when I turn the key, all normal dash lights and interior lights come on.
-I can hear the neutral safety switch click near the tranny gear select lever.
-Even tried to jump the car, I assume there is no secret to that, Positive(+) to (+) and Negative (-) to (-) still no help.

Trying to get to the bottom of it ASAP because I deploy for sunny Iraq in two weeks and wifey needs the car. Thanks for any assistance in advance you folks have been helpful in the past. God Bless America and Semper Fidelis!
MIke

 

It sounds like a bad starter to me, but I'm no expert. I don't know why the hazard lights would flash if the botton was not on? Hope somebody will be more help than I have been.

 

Welcome to the forum.

It seems like something in the anti-theft has been screwed up due to improper jumping. The solid state device within the alarm relay may have fried. BTW,why does your 850 have automatic lighting, even though it seems like it is a U.S model? I'm curious.

You probably know,that the proper way to jump a car is to connect the positives first, thenconnect the negative post of the providing vehicle and the GROUND of the dead car, means any unpainted surface of the car, including the engine block. 99% of people would connectthe negative to negative directly between the batteries, which is the WRONG method. This poses threat against safety for possible explosion of the battery. This, however, is not a cause for screwing up the electrical systemunless the battery gets short-circuited.

Wait to see if Moderator Tech could reply, as Tech is the Master of Volvos.


JPN

 

I was thinking the same thing with the anti-theft. On one of my other cars, every time I have to jump it, it sets the alarm off.

I would try inserting the key into the drivers door and locking all doors, unlocking doors and then try starting the car. The locks need to beactivated with the key, so the 'car' knows you are the owner (or at least, you have the key to the car )

 

Install a test light to the small wire on the starter and have some one watch and see if the light comes on when in the start position. If the light comes on the starter is bad.

 

It is the anti-theft for sure. If you have the remote keyfob lock and unlock the doors and life should be good. The problem with the remote locks is that no one actually uses the key in the doorand the door switches tend to get corroded and they won't always reset the alarm when you actually use the key to lock and unlock the car.

Push comes to shove you can remove relay 210/211 in the lower portion of the central electrical unit. If you look on the bottom of the relay - on the 210 side - you will see pins 50E and 50F molded in the plastic. Insert a jumper wire into the socket positions associated with those pins and the car will start and run fine.

The lower central electrical unit is to the left of the steering column below the dash. You need to remove the lower dash panel (4 T-25 Torx) to get to it.

Good luck and God speed in Iraq.

...Lee