Hey guys..... the dipstick on my 95 turbo wagon comes out covered in gunky chunky goop.... its reddish in color and im finding it all the way at the top of the dipstick... Its been this way for a few months.... Also.... Anyone run synthetic oil? is this recomended for Volvos? if so.... what kind? i run Royal Purple in my RX-7.....

 

Hello,

>gunky chunky goop
Sounds like a name of Ben & Jerry's ice cream, that was Chunky Monkey though[8D]. Just kidding. I had to leave the States before I ever tried "Americone Freedom", I wanted to try it .....

I assume you're referring to the engine oil dipstick, correct? My answer is based on this assumption.

Before writing what I think, I would like to know the following:

1. Brand name of the oil, SAE grade (10W-30, etc...), brand name of oil filter and the last time when the oil & filter were replaced.

2. Engine oil level.

3. Any unusual colour in the exhaust.

4. Level of transmission fluid.

5. Level & colour of coolant in the reservoir.

6. Any oil or fuel additives you might have used.

Now, I am suspecting that somehow the transmission fluid is mixing with engine oil. If transmission fluid level is dropping, you can assume it is mixing with oil. However, if this isn't the case, it may just be due to neglected maintenance, inferior oil, fuel, filter, etc... Or, someone (a guy at a shop) may have accidentally introduced transmission fluid into the engine oil filler neck, etc... I would change oil & filter and see what happens within 50 miles, 100 miles, 500 miles, then 1,000 miles, etc... I'll let other experts provide you with their opinions.

As to synthetic oil, it is usually recommended for high-performance engines such as turbocharged, variable valve timing, etc... Synthetic oil is most effective under high load, pressure and temperature extremes. Using regular oil wouldn't hurt anything, but if it were my car, I would use either full/semi synthetic (synthetic blend). The '94 owner's manual recommends using synthetic oil. Many people seem to use Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc... I used to use Valvoline Durablend 10W-30. Any name-brand's products would be fine.

Some resources:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ynthetics.aspx
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/produ...tentId=6030793
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=19

Do some readings on those sites; they are very educational and easy to read.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Thank you for your very informative post.... heres the answers to your questions:

- yes... oil dipstick
-current oil Castrol GTX 10-30
-Oil filter is a Fram (the orange one)
--- replaced both about 2 months ago...
-Oil level is topped of.... ( i like to keep it there)
-Coolant Level is midway between min and max and is Green
-not sure on where the trans fluid dipstick is... but havent searched thouroghly yet.
-no additives used

Thanks for any help... i appreciate your input!

 

Hi Endneu913,

As to the transmission dipstick, this thread would help:

https://volvoforums.com/m_65687/tm.htm

- Castrol isone of the topbrands so that's fine.
- I wouldn't useFram filters on Volvos. I would only use OEM (MANN, made in Germany/Argentina).
- Oil & filter replaced recently.
- Oil level is good.
- Coolant level & condition are good.
- No additives used.

If you haven't noticed any shifting problems, however, it may not be the transmission fluid, and I have a feeling that someone accidentally put wrong fluid/ foreign objectthrough the oil filler opening, or something soft may have dissolved in the oil. Anyway, I wouldtry changing the oil & filter, as well as replacing PCV components. If you're handy with tools andare safety-conscious, servicing the PCV system is well within DIYer's capability. Also, let us know if thereare additional infosuch as leaking fluid, drivability problems, etc... If you haven't noticed any other problems, it may not be somethingto worry about.

Here's a vendor which some of us use:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#850

Correction: "Americone Freedom" should have been "Americone Dream".

Also, I believe other members can provide you with their insights.

Good luck,


JPN

 

JPN...thank you again....

Im thinking that where i will start, after checking the transmission fluid, is to get a new MANN filter and a good brand of synthetic oil.... Or would you reccomend a blend OVER a full synthetic? As i mentioned previously, i run Royal Purple in my Rotary Engine.... which ive been covinced is the best sythetic out there... followed shortly by Amsoil.... but i know nothing of blends.

Im pretty sharp in the garage and own lots of tools, but gain, being a rotary nut, and foriegn to Piston Engines, i dont understand the PVC system at all.... can you elaborate on that, as well as clear up something else? the engine oil system and the transmission fluid system are 2 different systems corrrect? but previously you mentioned :

"Now, I am suspecting that somehow the transmission fluid is mixing with engine oil. If transmission fluid level is dropping, you can assume it is mixing with oil. "

CAb you elaborate on this topic as well? Thank you so much for your help and suggestions.... Not many folks are this polite on the rotary forums....

Oh... also... mann filters? from the dealer?

 

i should stop relying on spellcheck....

 

Not sure how the oil and transmission fluid mix, but I have heard of it before. You can get the Mann filters at fcpgroton.com or ipdusa.com. The dealer will on have genuine Volvo filters which are made my Mann. Either will work fine, but the Mann ones are cheaper. When I need to change my oil, and neither is available, I use the NAPA Gold filter which does have the check valve built into it.

 

Hello Endneu913,

Here's a follow up.

The only place where tranny fluid & engine oil can mix is the radiator, as there's tranny fluid cooler line within the radiator, as well as engine oil cooler. However, it is hard to imagine the cooler line rupturing inside the radiator, and no such report has been noted in this forum so I believe the problem is of no concern for now. If it gets worse, let us know and we'll try to find the cause from what we know.

Oil selection is more of personal preference than scientific facts, so whatever you like is the one to go with. I personally liked Valvoline synthetic blend 10W-30 because I was cheap. If I could afford, I'd like to go with either Valvoline, Mobile or Castrol full synthetic for a turboed car. For NA, I'd be happy with synthetic blend. If you like Royal Purple, stick with it.

Tune-up Items, including MANN filter:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm

$3.95 ea., or $35 for 10 filters+ shipping.

PCV kit for '95 Turbo:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrapturbo.htm

$118.75 + shipping.

Once you take of the intake manifold, you should have much access to the entire system. Then, replace the components and put the intake manifold back in with a new gasket.

Intake manifold gasket:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvoeng850engine.htm

$5.50 + shipping.

As to the torque on the intake manifold bolts,the factory manual indicates15ft-lbs, 180in-lbs or 20Nm (Newton meter, an ISO unit). But double check on this with a Haynes manual, etc... There may also be a sequence you have to follow.

PCV System:
It is used to relieve internal pressure in the crankcase due to blow-by gas past the piston rings, etc... Many cars have PCV valve and that's the only item within the system that needs replacing, but 850's PCV system is unique and does not have a PCV valve. As to the replacement procedure, look at the illustration I attached, which is probably self-explanatory since you're handy with tools.

>Not many folks are this polite on the rotary forums....
That's the reason why I don't go elsewhere. I have very low tolerance against rudeness or sarcastic attitude. I also noticed that in everything, sarcastic attitudes come from those who are mundane; true experts generally do not have this attitude as they know there are things they don't know and know that they too, are in the learning process.

The top-dog of this forum, named Moderator Tech, has a great influence on all of us and Tech is another reason why many people stay here.

Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck with your Wankel, too!


JPN

EDIT: There has been aconfusion about the accuracy of illustrations used by many sources. Refer to the following thread:

https://volvoforums.com/m_66546/tm.htm

When you order/buy PCV kit, make certain that you are getting the correct parts.

1st: MANN filter
2nd: PCV kit (check with vendor to make cure that you get the right kit for your car)
3rd: Intake manifold gasket

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/820C10FFBA30431BB22AFA15047EE79F.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/D20FC4D65B54438B96F659A6E6D38C84.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/EB6531A6A9D8495380107621FE41CBE6.jpg[/IMG]

 

**** UPDATE****

I purchased a new dipstick from FCP... after driving the car for a week, i pulled the stick to check the oil... more rust ( chunky looking goop) So it appears that in fact, there is water, or moisture building up at the top of the dipstick and rusting.... Back to the drawing board

Also since the last time ive posted, done several oil changes on the car, all using Castrol GTX, and Mann Filters. On a side note ive also been experiencing other non related problems... Heater Core leak, which has been replaced, radiatior is leaking... waiting for the new one from UPS, oil cooler lines have small leak, which will be replaced with radiator. Also when radiator is out, i will be draining the tranny and replacing with Royal Purple sythetic ATF............

 

i'm afraid that after you fix your radiator leak, you may find that you're still losing coolant...

 

...........are you thinking its leaking in to the block? is that why i have so much condensation rusting up my dipstick?

 

I use mobile one but volvo reccomends castrol mineral oil. I say, why not use something madmade since its a manmade car so I use synthetic.

 

Have you had the engine flushed? Try using some motor flush and change the oil and filter again to see if that helps. Also, how is that car running?

 

mineral oil? I thought they used that for cars in 1965.

 

And if this happens, inspect all hoses, their connections & each component. Pressure test the cooling system at a reputable shop if coolant keeps disappearing even after the new radiator is installed.

As to tranny fluid, I personally would go with conventional Dexron-III/Mercon. Someone has noted recently that he used Castrol's synthetic fluid for Imported Vehicles and was having trouble.


JPN

 

Regarding the engine flush... the taboo topic, i asked about that and got alot of flack.... but i bought a Gunk flush and it says not for tubos! .... hmmmmm

Ill update on the coolant loss.... as of now, i replaced the radiator, both hoses and oil cooler lines.... no leaks so far, but loss of coolant is too soon to tell....

If i did have a blown head gasket, wouldnt i KNOW? like wouldnt it be obvious? The car runs strong... really smooth when warm... the tranny shifts pretty well. when hand shifting the shifter into reverse, sometimes it gets a little clunk. She pulled 14.88 quarter mile a few months ago....

 

you could have a lab analyze your oil and tell you if any antifreeze is present (as well as a lot of other stuff).

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

Didnt know what else to call it, I guess conventional oil. The **** that comes from the ground, christ!

 

Cool im gonna try this out, have you?

 

So far so good... absolutely NO coolant loss..

.. But, the new oil lines leak. UG. the seals didnt fit right so the upper one was leaking alot of oil fom the top fitting at the radiator. Which part does the actual Sealing? the O-ring at the tip, or the clearish band grommet at the rear?