Having a problem with my 97 turbo 850 having hard starting after sitting for 3 or more days. Starts fine every morning but let it sit for 3 days and it will give trouble. never failed to start though til one time i left it for a week and could not start it at all. Had my son squirt starting fluid in the intake...but I think this actually made it work. Had a run down battery as well but jumping and grinding did no good. Since the car had 290,000 on it I thought what the heck and gave it a birthday. New plugs, wires, cap, and starter....oh and charged the battery....got er started! A month later I let it sit for 3.5 days and it did the hard starting thing again...but it did start. Here is what you have to do to get it started. Hold the gas pedal down all the way and engage the starter and DO NOT LET OFF. Even when it sounds like it is going to catch. Dont let off the starter till it gets hitting good on all cylinders. It then runs rough for about 1 minute, then you are good. NO CODES other than the usual gross air leak code. I will go out to the car and get the codes and edit this post.

Any ideas???

 

Well .....pulling the codes was a revelation....should have done it sooner! As well as the normal p0455 and p0410 I had a bunch of other codes [3 of which were miising cylinder codes]

they were. p0102, p0245, p0108, the rest were missing cylinder codes.... p0302 p304 and p0300
I skimmmed the codes and one that caught my eye was p0108 When I looked up the detail on that code it mentioned that there might be a soot smell in the exhaust....Mine defenatly had that when it started....a pretty good cloud in fact. By the way, I do get good gas milage 22, 23 regular driving mix and 26+ if I make an all day interstate trip at 65/70 with no slowing.

I cleared the codes and I will report if any come back.

UPDATE. Went out and checked the wiring and hoses to the MAP everything seems ok.

 

Time for a compression test.

Compression Test - Volvo S70 GLT, 1998

 

Did the compression test. They were all either 140 or 145 PSI. My tester is not so good but After fiddling with it and doing each one twice, that was my result.

 

From the manual:
=============
MECHANICAL INSPECTION
Compression
Check engine mechanical condition using a compression gauge,
vacuum gauge or engine analyzer. See engine analyzer manual for
specific instructions.
WARNING: Do not use ignition switch during compression tests on fuel
injected vehicles. Use a remote starter to crank engine. Fuel
injectors on many models are triggered by ignition switch
during cranking mode, which can create a fire hazard or
contaminate engine oiling system.
COMPRESSION SPECIFICATIONS TABLE

Application __________________ Specification (Minimum)
Compression Pressure ........... 156-185 psi (11-13 kg/cm)

 

. I thought about your suggestion that it might be poor compression and that is definately something that could be exacerbated by sitting for periods of time. Spraying starting fluid in, as I tried, would not help either but make things worse. I sprung $19.99 minus an additional 20% with a coupon for the for a much better compression tester [reg $29.99!!!] at harbor freight tools. This one screws in to the spark plug holes so we will get a real test. [Those of you in the peanut gallery will please not bother to tell me about how this isnt as good as your professional grade tool, it will get er done!] Thank you very much for the suggestion, It is very plausable.

 

Why did you post that?

 

I assumed it was obvious..?

His (OP's) compression numbers (if they're accurate) are significantly below min spec across the board. This will certainly contribute to hard starting, poor pwr, misfires, etc.

 

Yes they are low...

 

did the test with my new tester, they were lower than with the old tester. when the engine was hot I got 115, 112, 118, 117, and 117. I let the motor cool for 4 hours and got 125, 124, 128, 121 ,& 125. They are low but the pressures are close to one another. I do not have unusual oil usage. [a little more than 2 quarts every 5,000 miles. and the power is good. Also the fuel economy is good. 21 in mixed driving and 26/27 on highway trips.

 

Those numbers are on the threshold of the engine not starting at all. Time for OH or another car/engine...

 

I racked my brains as to what besides worn rings could cause poor compression and I Decided to check the timing belt. First thing I noticed was that the belt had not been changed in 75,000 miles. I looked very carefully at it and discovered that the valve timing was 1/2 cog off , on the cam cogs. Would this affect compression????